소개
Follow this guide to replace a damaged or faulty digitizer on the Nintendo Switch game console.
The Switch uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.
Note: If the screen stopped working, you may just need to replace the LCD panel, rather than the digitizer.
Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste for the CPU.
You can complete this repair without removing the heat sink and the game card reader, but it makes disconnecting and reconnecting the LCD panel ribbon cable much more difficult. Keep this in mind when you perform this repair.
Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).
필요한 것
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Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
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While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.
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Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.
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Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:
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One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
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Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
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Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.
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Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.
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You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you're careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.
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If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
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Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.
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Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,
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Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.
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Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
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Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.
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Heat the top edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive holding the LCD panel to the digitizer.
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Only the digitizer panel remains.
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If your new digitizer does not come with pre-installed adhesive, follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
If your new digitizer doesn’t work properly after you boot up the device, turn it back off and disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
If your new digitizer doesn’t work properly after you boot up the device, turn it back off and disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.
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댓글 14개
Are Digitizers from original models (HAC-001) and revision models (HAC-001-(01)) compatible?
I don’t mean switch lite but the revision with the longer lasting battery.
Yes, the digitizer is compatible with both models!
The ribbon cable for the digitizer is too short and cannot plug in to the connecter on the game card reader. Any ideas what the issue could be? im using a custom housing for it
there should be a slit on the front housing where the ribbon cable goes straight through to the back. pay attention at where it comes out of on step 39
Did you end up getting an answer to this? The same thing happened to me this evening, and I'm stumped.
