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이 안내서를 사용하여 결함이 있는 iPhone 7 로직 보드를 분리 또는 교체하세요.

각 iPhone의 로직 보드와 Touch ID 지문 센서는 공장에서 페어링하므로, 새 로직 보드와 올바로 페어링한 새 교체 홈 버튼을 설치“하지 않는 한” 로직 보드 교체는 Touch ID를 비활성화합니다.

동영상 개요

  1. 시작하기 전에 iPhone 배터리를 25% 이하로 방전하세요. 충전된 리튬-이온 배터리에 실수로 구멍이 생기면 화재를 일으키거나 폭발할 수 있습니다.
    • 시작하기 전에 iPhone 배터리를 25% 이하로 방전하세요. 충전된 리튬-이온 배터리에 실수로 구멍이 생기면 화재를 일으키거나 폭발할 수 있습니다.

    • 분해를 시작하기 전에 iPhone 전원을 끄세요.

    • iPhone 하단 가장자리에 위치한 3.4mm pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 두 개를 빼세요.

    • iPhone 디스플레이를 열게되면 방수 씰이 손상됩니다. 이 단계를 수행하기 전에 교체용 씰을 준비하거나 씰없이 iPhone을 재조립할 경우 액체에 노출되지 않도록 주의하세요.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - 답글

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - 답글

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - 답글

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - 답글

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - 답글

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - 답글

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - 답글

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - 답글

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - 답글

  2. iPhone 하단 가장자리를 가열하면 디스플레이를 고정하고 있는 접착제가 부드러워져서 보다 쉽게 ​​열 수 있습니다.
    • iPhone 하단 가장자리를 가열하면 디스플레이를 고정하고 있는 접착제가 부드러워져서 보다 쉽게 ​​열 수 있습니다.

    • 헤어 드라이어 또는 iOpener를 준비하여 iPhone 하단 가장자리를 약 90초 동안 가열하여 밑에 있는 접착제를 부드럽게 합니다.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - 답글

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - 답글

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - 답글

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - 답글

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - 답글

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - 답글

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - 답글

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - 답글

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - 답글

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - 답글

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - 답글

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - 답글

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - 답글

    For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.

    You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!

    Adrian - 답글

    I found this to be completely useless. It didn’t help at all. I had to use a heat gun instead. Waste of money.

    David Gordon - 답글

    I’ll experiment with leaving the phone in the sun until the Temperature Warning comes up so the phone tells me when it’s too hot to be safe.

    Maybe it will be hot enough, maybe it won’t—

    edmk5000 - 답글

  3. 흡입 컵을 전면 패널 하단, 홈 버튼 바로 위에 붙이세요. 흡입 컵이 홈 버튼과 겹치지 않도록 하세요. 겹치는 경우 흡입 컵과 전면 유리 사이에 씰이 형성되지 않습니다.
    • 흡입 컵을 전면 패널 하단, 홈 버튼 바로 위에 붙이세요.

    • 흡입 컵이 홈 버튼과 겹치지 않도록 하세요. 겹치는 경우 흡입 컵과 전면 유리 사이에 씰이 형성되지 않습니다.

    • 디스플레이가 심하게 깨진 경우 투명 포장 테이프를 붙이면 흡입 컵을 부착할 수 있습니다. 대안으로, 흡입 컵 대신에 매우 강한 테이프를 사용할 수 있습니다. 다른 모든 방법이 실패하면 초강력 접착제를 사용하여 흡입 컵을 깨진 스크린에 붙일 수 있습니다.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - 답글

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - 답글

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - 답글

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - 답글

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - 답글

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - 답글

    The suction cup that is. supplied with the essentials kit doesn’t work that well.

    Laurence - 답글

  4. 흡입 컵을 위로 당겨 전면 패널과 후면 케이스 사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요. 틈 사이로 spudger/스퍼저를 삽입하세요. 디스플레이를 제자리에 고정하는 방수 접착제는 매우 강력합니다; 이 초기 틈을 만들려면 상당한 힘이 들어갑니다. 틈을 여는 것이 어려우면 spudger/스퍼저를 넣을 수 있는 틈이 생길 때까지 스크린을 위아래로 부드럽게 들었다 놨다하여 접착제를 약하게 만들어 주세요.
    • 흡입 컵을 위로 당겨 전면 패널과 후면 케이스 사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요.

    • 틈 사이로 spudger/스퍼저를 삽입하세요.

    • 디스플레이를 제자리에 고정하는 방수 접착제는 매우 강력합니다; 이 초기 틈을 만들려면 상당한 힘이 들어갑니다. 틈을 여는 것이 어려우면 spudger/스퍼저를 넣을 수 있는 틈이 생길 때까지 스크린을 위아래로 부드럽게 들었다 놨다하여 접착제를 약하게 만들어 주세요.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - 답글

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - 답글

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - 답글

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - 답글

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - 답글

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - 답글

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - 답글

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - 답글

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - 답글

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - 답글

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - 답글

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - 답글

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - 답글

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - 답글

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - 답글

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - 답글

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - 답글

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - 답글

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - 답글

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - 답글

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - 답글

    I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.

    Lucas -

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - 답글

    I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.

    Gene Merritt - 답글

    Followed Gene’s approach with heat and a razor blade. I was nervous, but went slow; it was very easy and effective. Great tip. Just be patient and don’t rush yourself.

    Michael J - 답글

    I would skip right to using a single edge razor blade and a hair dryer to create the gap needed for the spudger.

    Logan Brown - 답글

    Think plunging the toilet - it did not work for me for a long time. the suction cup would not stay held on a long pull. I found that tiny push-pull repeated motions, reseating the suction cup with each push slowly overcame the adhesive, and contributed heat :). I had it after about 50-70 cycles

    Andrew Balanda - 답글

    seconding this comment from Ted ~~~ “the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).”

    natjpollard - 답글

    I echo what everyone is saying here, the spudger just isn’t good enough for this and neither is a pick. The razor is the best way to go. I tried using a very sharp penknife blade and managed to damage my LCD (somehow!) and the bezel so I ended up having to buy a new screen display as well as a new battery. Think twice before doing this. Be prepared to shell out for a new screen just in case it goes wrong. You’ll also need the heat gun (the iopener was useless). If you do need to buy a new screen, make your life easier and get one with the speaker, forward-facing camera, home button, etc., already attached (you can then replace the home button) or you’ll end up having to transfer all these from your old display.

    David Gordon - 답글

  5. Spudger/스퍼저를 iPhone 왼편 하단 가장자리를 따라 움직이세요. Spudger/스퍼저를 비틀어 디스플레이와 후면 케이스 사이 틈을 넓혀 주세요. Spudger/스퍼저를 비틀어 디스플레이와 후면 케이스 사이 틈을 넓혀 주세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저를 iPhone 왼편 하단 가장자리를 따라 움직이세요.

    • Spudger/스퍼저를 비틀어 디스플레이와 후면 케이스 사이 틈을 넓혀 주세요.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - 답글

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - 답글

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - 답글

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - 답글

  6. Spudger/스퍼저를 iPhone 왼편 하단 가장자리에서 가장자리를 따라 위로 밀어 음량 조절 버튼과 무음 스위치쪽으로 이동하세요. 휴대폰 상단 가장자리를 비집지 마세요. 디스플레이를 고정하는 플라스틱 클립이 손상될 수 있습니다. 휴대폰 상단 가장자리를 비집지 마세요. 디스플레이를 고정하는 플라스틱 클립이 손상될 수 있습니다.
    • Spudger/스퍼저를 iPhone 왼편 하단 가장자리에서 가장자리를 따라 위로 밀어 음량 조절 버튼과 무음 스위치쪽으로 이동하세요.

    • 휴대폰 상단 가장자리를 비집지 마세요. 디스플레이를 고정하는 플라스틱 클립이 손상될 수 있습니다.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - 답글

  7. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 가장자리를 기기 오른편 하단에 삽입하세요. Spudger/스퍼저를 비틀어 디스플레이 어셈블리와 후면 케이스 사이의 간격을 넓히세요. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 휴대폰 오른편을 따라  위로 밀어 디스플레이를 제자리에 고정하는 접착제를 분리하세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 가장자리를 기기 오른편 하단에 삽입하세요.

    • Spudger/스퍼저를 비틀어 디스플레이 어셈블리와 후면 케이스 사이의 간격을 넓히세요.

    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 휴대폰 오른편을 따라 위로 밀어 디스플레이를 제자리에 고정하는 접착제를 분리하세요.

    • 오른편 가장자리를 따라 위치한 연약한 리본 케이블을 손상하지 않도록 spudger/스퍼저를 접착제보다 더 많이 삽입하지 마세요.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - 답글

  8. 흡입 컵을 위로 당겨 디스플레이를 들어 올려 iPhone을 여세요. 디스플레이를 10º 이상 올리지 마세요. 디스플레이와 로직 보드를 연결하는 리본 케이블이 기기의 오른편 가장자리에 위치하고 있습니다.
    • 흡입 컵을 위로 당겨 디스플레이를 들어 올려 iPhone을 여세요.

    • 디스플레이를 10º 이상 올리지 마세요. 디스플레이와 로직 보드를 연결하는 리본 케이블이 기기의 오른편 가장자리에 위치하고 있습니다.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - 답글

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - 답글

  9. 흡입 컵의 작은 손잡이를 당겨 전면 패널에서 분리하세요.
    • 흡입 컵의 작은 손잡이를 당겨 전면 패널에서 분리하세요.

  10. 여는 픽을, 후면 케이스와 전면 패널 사이, iPhone 상단 가장자리를 따라 밀어서 스크린을 제자리에 고정하는 마지막 남은 접착제를 분리하세요. 휴대폰 상단 모서리의 플라스틱 클립을 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요.
    • 여는 픽을, 후면 케이스와 전면 패널 사이, iPhone 상단 가장자리를 따라 밀어서 스크린을 제자리에 고정하는 마지막 남은 접착제를 분리하세요.

    • 휴대폰 상단 모서리의 플라스틱 클립을 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - 답글

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

    プラスチックのクリップという

    表現に混乱しました。

    上部に食い込んでいる

    差し込みのことだったんですね。

    下に引っ張ったら抜けました。

    情報ありがとうございました。

    MARU - 답글

  11. 휴대폰 상단 모서리에서 디스플레이 어셈블리를 약간 당겨서 후면 케이스에 고정하는 클립을 풀어주세요. 책의 뒷 표지를 열듯이 디스플레이 왼편을 위로 펼쳐서  iPhone을 열어주세요. 아직 디스플레이를 완전히 분리하지 마세요. 여전히 약한 리본 케이블 여럿이 iPhone 로직 보드에 연결되어 있습니다.
    • 휴대폰 상단 모서리에서 디스플레이 어셈블리를 약간 당겨서 후면 케이스에 고정하는 클립을 풀어주세요.

    • 책의 뒷 표지를 열듯이 디스플레이 왼편을 위로 펼쳐서 iPhone을 열어주세요.

    • 아직 디스플레이를 완전히 분리하지 마세요. 여전히 약한 리본 케이블 여럿이 iPhone 로직 보드에 연결되어 있습니다.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - 답글

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - 답글

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - 답글

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - 답글

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - 답글

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - 답글

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - 답글

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - 답글

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - 답글

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - 답글

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - 답글

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - 답글

    • 하단 디스플레이 케이블 브래킷을 고정하는 다음 길이의 삼-점 Y000 나사 네 개를 분리하세요:

    • 1.2mm 나사 세 개

    • 2.4mm 나사 한 개

    • iPhone의 손상을 피하기 위해 수리하는 동안 각 나사의 원래 위치를 기억하고 반드시 원래 위치로 정확히 돌려놓으세요.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - 답글

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - 답글

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - 답글

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - 답글

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - 답글

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - 답글

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - 답글

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - 답글

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - 답글

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - 답글

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - 답글

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - 답글

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - 답글

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - 답글

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - 답글

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - 답글

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - 답글

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - 답글

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - 답글

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - 답글

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - 답글

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - 답글

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - 답글

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - 답글

  12. 하단 커넥터 브래킷을 분리하세요.
    • 하단 커넥터 브래킷을 분리하세요.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - 답글

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - 답글

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - 답글

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - 답글

  13. Spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 로직 보드의 커넥터 소켓에서 들어올리세요. 수리 중에 실수로 소켓에 닿아 휴대폰에 전원이 공급되지 않도록 배터리 커넥터 케이블을 위로 약간 구부려 주세요. 수리 중에 실수로 소켓에 닿아 휴대폰에 전원이 공급되지 않도록 배터리 커넥터 케이블을 위로 약간 구부려 주세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 로직 보드의 커넥터 소켓에서 들어올리세요.

    • 수리 중에 실수로 소켓에 닿아 휴대폰에 전원이 공급되지 않도록 배터리 커넥터 케이블을 위로 약간 구부려 주세요.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - 답글

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - 답글

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - 답글

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - 답글

  14. 이 단계에서 케이블을 분리하거나 다시 연결하기 전에 배터리가 분리되었는지 확인하세요. Spudger/스퍼저 또는 손톱을 사용하여 하단 디스플레이 커넥터 두 개를 로직 보드의 소켓에서 위로 들어올려 분리하세요. 이 케이블을 다시 연결하려면 딱 들어맞을 때까지 한쪽 끝을 눌러주고 반대쪽 끝에도 반복하세요. 가운데는  누르지 마세요. 만약 커넥터가 조금이라도 잘못 정렬되었다면 커넥터가 구부러져 영구적인 손상을 입을 수 있습니다.
    • 이 단계에서 케이블을 분리하거나 다시 연결하기 전에 배터리가 분리되었는지 확인하세요.

    • Spudger/스퍼저 또는 손톱을 사용하여 하단 디스플레이 커넥터 두 개를 로직 보드의 소켓에서 위로 들어올려 분리하세요.

    • 이 케이블을 다시 연결하려면 딱 들어맞을 때까지 한쪽 끝을 눌러주고 반대쪽 끝에도 반복하세요. 가운데는 누르지 마세요. 만약 커넥터가 조금이라도 잘못 정렬되었다면 커넥터가 구부러져 영구적인 손상을 입을 수 있습니다.

    • 휴대폰을 재조립한 다음 빈 화면, 디스플레이에 흰색 선 또는 터치 반응이 부분적 또는 완전하지 않은 경우 두 케이블을 모두 분리하고 조심스럽게 다시 연결하여 제대로 장착하였는지 확인하세요.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    iPhone 디스플레이 접착제 교체

    minimalist - 답글

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - 답글

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - 답글

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - 답글

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - 답글

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - 답글

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - 답글

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - 답글

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - 답글

  15. 전면 패널 센서 어셈블리 커넥터 위로 브래킷을 고정하는 1.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요. 브래킷을 분리하세요. 브래킷을 분리하세요.
    • 전면 패널 센서 어셈블리 커넥터 위로 브래킷을 고정하는 1.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.

    • 브래킷을 분리하세요.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - 답글

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - 답글

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - 답글

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - 답글

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - 답글

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - 답글

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - 답글

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - 답글

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - 답글

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - 답글

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - 답글

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - 답글

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - 답글

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - 답글

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - 답글

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - 답글

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - 답글

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - 답글

  16. 로직 보드 소켓에서 전면 패널 센서 어셈블리 커넥터를 분리하세요. 이 프레스 커넥터를 다시 연결할 때 구부러지는 위험을 최소화하기 위해 한 번에 한쪽 끝씩 연결하세요.
    • 로직 보드 소켓에서 전면 패널 센서 어셈블리 커넥터를 분리하세요.

    • 이 프레스 커넥터를 다시 연결할 때 구부러지는 위험을 최소화하기 위해 한 번에 한쪽 끝씩 연결하세요.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - 답글

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - 답글

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  17. 디스플레이 어셈블리를 분리하세요.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - 답글

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - 답글

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - 답글

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. SIM 카드 추출 도구 또는 종이클립을 SIM 카드 트레이 작은 구멍에 넣으세요. 눌러서 트레이를 튀어나오게 하세요. 누를 때 상당한 힘이 들어갈 수 있습니다.
    • SIM 카드 추출 도구 또는 종이클립을 SIM 카드 트레이 작은 구멍에 넣으세요.

    • 눌러서 트레이를 튀어나오게 하세요.

    • 누를 때 상당한 힘이 들어갈 수 있습니다.

    • iPhone에서 SIM 카드 트레이 어셈블리를 빼세요.

    • SIM 카드를 다시 넣을 때 트레이에 맞는 올바른 방향인지 확인하세요.

    Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

    AJ Dereume - 답글

    Why would it require a significant amount of force? Is it because the iPhone 7 is water resistant? When I removed my tray it was like it was stuck in goop inside the phone and the tray had a glue like sticky substance on it? It did not ‘click’ back in smoothly like my other iPhones, I had to push it against the ‘goop’. Is this normal for iPhone 7??

    Rebecca Diakun - 답글

    I used the tip of the super pointy tweezers, and it worked well.

    Cynthia Lamb - 답글

  19. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 후면 카메라 커넥터를 분리하세요. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 후면 카메라 커넥터를 분리하세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 후면 카메라 커넥터를 분리하세요.

  20. 후면 카메라 브래킷을 후면 케이스에 고정하는 다음 Phillips/십자 나사들을 분리하세요. 1.3mm 나사 한 개
    • 후면 카메라 브래킷을 후면 케이스에 고정하는 다음 Phillips/십자 나사들을 분리하세요.

    • 1.3mm 나사 한 개

    • 2.5mm 나사 한 개

    I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.

    Ray Bieze - 답글

    i removed them with PH000

    Flavien - 답글

  21. 브래킷을 분리하세요.
    • 브래킷을 분리하세요.

  22. Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 후면 카메라 모듈 왼편에 위치한 안테나 버스 커넥터를 들어 올리세요. Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 후면 카메라 모듈 왼편에 위치한 안테나 버스 커넥터를 들어 올리세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 후면 카메라 모듈 왼편에 위치한 안테나 버스 커넥터를 들어 올리세요.

    There is one Step missing before removing the flash light cable: Remove Camera cable, right?

    Achim Breidenbach - 답글

    I broke this and can’t find it on amazon. Is it part of the volume control flash connector? If not, can you send me a link on where to find this connector,…and possible instructions on how to replace?

    Daniel Buhler - 답글

  23. 상단 케이블 브래킷을 고정하는 1.2mm 삼-점 나사 두 개를 분리하세요.
    • 상단 케이블 브래킷을 고정하는 1.2mm 삼-점 나사 두 개를 분리하세요.

    these are too tight cant get rid off them from y000

    Narendra Mane - 답글

    ok with Y000 from pro tool kit

    Flavien - 답글

    Had to push down to get the Y000 in place

    Cynthia Lamb - 답글

  24. 상당 케이블 브래킷을 분리하세요. 상당 케이블 브래킷을 분리하세요.
    • 상당 케이블 브래킷을 분리하세요.

  25. 평평한 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 상당 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요. 평평한 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 상당 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.
    • 평평한 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 상당 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.

    Este cable q funciona tiene porfavor lo desconecte y funciona normal

    Johnny Bolaños - 답글

  26. Wi-Fi 안테나를 고정하는 Phillips/십자 나사를 풀어주세요: 1.2mm 나사 세 개
    • Wi-Fi 안테나를 고정하는 Phillips/십자 나사를 풀어주세요:

    • 1.2mm 나사 세 개

    • 1.7mm 나사 한 개

    I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

    Bethany Knaebel - 답글

    There is another screw connecting the antenna to the case.

    tbaiello - 답글

    How do you open the 1.7mm screw? LOL

    Kyle Victor - 답글

    The screws are not threading in for some reason. I measured the screws to be exactly 1.2mm with a caliper.

    Loopy75 - 답글

    Yes there are 4 x screw 3 x 1.2mm and 1x 1.7mm securing the antenna to the case

    ANDREW - 답글

    Yes : 4 screws and not 3 !!

    sirthomasnardin -

  27. 상단 왼편 안테나를 분리하세요. 상단 왼편 안테나를 분리하세요.
    • 상단 왼편 안테나를 분리하세요.

    ** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

    iBroke - 답글

  28. 다음 Phillips/십자 나사들을 풀어주세요:
    • 다음 Phillips/십자 나사들을 풀어주세요:

    • 1.3mm 나사 한 개

    • 2.2mm 나사 한 개

  29. 브래킷을 분리하세요. 브래킷을 분리하세요.
    • 브래킷을 분리하세요.

    What's this bracket called

    Cris Velasquez - 답글

    %#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

    azowux - 답글

  30. 접지 브래킷에서 2.2mm 스탠드오프 나사를 풀어주세요.
    • 접지 브래킷에서 2.2mm 스탠드오프 나사를 풀어주세요.

    • 스탠드 오프 나사는 iPhone 스탠드 오프 드라이버 비트 및 드라이버 핸들을 사용하여 분리하는 것이 가장 좋습니다.

    • 유사시에는 작은 납작머리 드라이버를 사용할 수 있지만— 작동하지만 미끄러지거나 주변 부품이 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요.

    What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

    Mike Moran - 답글

    I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

    Ark - 답글

    I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

    Ark - 답글

    Its in the toolkit now. Looks like a Philips head but up close the end is squared off with a point in the middle.

    Jesse de Vries -

    I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

    bronyaur - 답글

    The flat end of the spudger works a treat too.

    Robert Trammel - 답글

    Thank you, bronyar. Since there is a box labeled “Repair Tools”, I never would have looked in the parts box for tools. I was able to use the standoff tool to takie the phone apart, not just to put it back together.

    Mike Ruzicka - 답글

    I used standoff bit for iPhone from my pro tool kit

    Flavien - 답글

  31. 핀셋을 사용하여 로직 보드 접지 브래킷을 조심히 치우세요. 핀셋을 사용하여 로직 보드 접지 브래킷을 조심히 치우세요.
    • 핀셋을 사용하여 로직 보드 접지 브래킷을 조심히 치우세요.

    I accidentally broke the grounding bracket, is it very important to get a new one to replace? as I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere

    Mustifa shah - 답글

    I also broke it. Did your phone work after?

    Did you find a replacement?

    Ben Schorr - 답글

  32. Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 안테나 케이블 커넥터 두 개를 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요. Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 안테나 케이블 커넥터 두 개를 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요. Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 안테나 케이블 커넥터 두 개를 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 안테나 케이블 커넥터 두 개를 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.

  33. 핀셋을 사용하여 로직 보드 금속 브래킷에서 안테나 케이블들을 조심히 빼세요. 핀셋을 사용하여 로직 보드 금속 브래킷에서 안테나 케이블들을 조심히 빼세요. 핀셋을 사용하여 로직 보드 금속 브래킷에서 안테나 케이블들을 조심히 빼세요.
    • 핀셋을 사용하여 로직 보드 금속 브래킷에서 안테나 케이블들을 조심히 빼세요.

  34. Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 하단 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요. Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 하단 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 하단 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.

    Wat voor kabel is dit? Deze is beschadigd bij mijn IPhone 8 Plus

    Maarten - 답글

  35. 다음 나사들을 분리하세요:
    • 다음 나사들을 분리하세요:

    • 1.4mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 2.2mm 스탠드오프 나사 세 개

    • 스탠드오프 나사는 iPhone 스탠드오프 스크루드라이버 비트와 드라이버 핸들을 사용하여 분리하는 것이 가장 좋습니다.

    • 유사시에 작은 일자 드라이버를 사용할 수 있습니다—하지만 드라이버가 미끄러져서 주변 부품을 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요.

  36. Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 SIM 카드 추출 플런저를 로직 보드에 방해가 안 되도록 치우세요. Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 SIM 카드 추출 플런저를 로직 보드에 방해가 안 되도록 치우세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 SIM 카드 추출 플런저를 로직 보드에 방해가 안 되도록 치우세요.

  37. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드의 배터리 커넥터 끝부분을 살짝 들어 올리세요. 어떤 케이블도 잡아 당기면 안됩니다. 만약 저항이 느껴지면 아무런 케이블, 커넥터 및 부품도 보드에 걸리지 않은 것을  확인하세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드의 배터리 커넥터 끝부분을 살짝 들어 올리세요.

    • 어떤 케이블도 잡아 당기면 안됩니다. 만약 저항이 느껴지면 아무런 케이블, 커넥터 및 부품도 보드에 걸리지 않은 것을 확인하세요.

  38. 로직 보드의 배터리 커넥터 끝부분을 들어 올려 후면 케이스에서 빼세요. 케이블에 로직 보드가 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요. 케이블에 로직 보드가 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요.
    • 로직 보드의 배터리 커넥터 끝부분을 들어 올려 후면 케이스에서 빼세요.

    • 케이블에 로직 보드가 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요.

결론

기기를 재조립하려면 이 지침을 역순으로 따르세요.

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Evan Noronha

회원 가입일: 2015년 02월 05일

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안내서 178개 작성하였습니다

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I had an accident where my iphone has got some damage (cracked screen, metal frame slightly bent).. I can see a lot of iCloud locked devices for sale, some of them for a cheap price. Would replacing the logic board and home button give me a non-damaged working phone? Or what parts would need to be moved for this? Sure I can buy a brand new phone but I like a bit of a challenge :)

Steve - 답글

the logic board holds the OS, so yes if you were to replace the mother board of the iPhone it should work like a new phone but without touch id

Vegas Uprising -

I have the same idea and i found to buy this one

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-iPho...

You think it will work?

alexandros papadopoulos -

Hi,

I’ve got a problem with my iphone7. I just took some videos under the water using my iphone. But later it’s finger id has gone and it’s fully damaged. Now the phone is not working. Is there any option to repair this ….?

muhammed faisal - 답글

Hi Muhammed, sounds like some water got inside your phone. Check out our iPhone liquid damage guide for some basic troubleshooting you can do on your own. When you have the phone open check connectors and pins on the board for any corrosion. If the damage is serious enough that cleaning won’t fix it, you can take your phone to a local repair shop for more extensive repairs.

Adam O'Camb -

Will the board in my iPhone 6 work in an iPhone 7 I have?

Neal Payne - 답글

Hello people my i phone 7 working only with headset. How can i solved? or what can i do?.

when i calling, on the screen not appears the speaker logo. Can you me help please.

Avedis

avi avi -

Hi. I want to buy a new logic board for iPhone 7 plus without touch id. I already have the home button with my screen attached. My question is if that home button works? I don’t need touch id i just want that the home button physically works. Does it work.

Faizan TAhir - 답글

Nope, sorry—a non-paired button won’t work at all last time I checked. It worked until the 6s, but iPhone 7 and later have a solid-state “button” that gets disabled completely.

Jeff Suovanen -

Ottima guida molto chiara, ho sostituito la sceda madre ad un iphone 7 senza alcuna difficoltà.

labruzzopaolo - 답글

I have recently lost all service in my iPhone 7. In the top left corner of my screen it says ‘No service’ and I cannot use 4G, receive or send messages and call others. My WIFI and Bluetooth work perfectly fine so does this mean that if I replace my logic board it will fix ‘No service’ issue ?

Adrian Cacaj - 답글

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