For the bottom case you’ll need a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver as described here. For the other parts you’ll need a T5 & T3 Torx screwdriver. To do the repair properly you’ll also need some other tools like an opening pick and spudgers. I would recommend to get a iFixit toolkit that has everything like the pro tech tool kit. I don’t think there are Phillips screws inside MacBooks.

Are you sure it’s a stain under the glass and not the anti reflective coating that is getting loose? If it’s the coating you could try to remove it completely, there are some products and wipes that can help you with that, but do note that once you removed that coating your screen looks like a mirror when it’s off :-P very reflective, hence the name anti reflective coating ;-) If it’s really under the screen I’m afraid you can only replace the display assembly as a whole. I don’t believe it’s possible to disassemble the glass to clean it. You can buy the part through iFixit, but it’s an expensive 250$ part (MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Early 2011-Late 2011) Display Assembly) so if the stains are not bothering you, I wouldn’t do anything :) Here is the guide on how to replace the screen if you’re going to do it: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 디스플레이 교체

Did you place back the little gold grounding clip as can be seen in step 22 of this guide? 아이폰 X 스크린의 교체하기 Also double check the flex cables to ensure they are not damaged.

I doubt that the popping noise came from inserting a PS3 game in your PS4. Since you didn’t open up the Playstation it’s just a wild guess, but it could be that the power supply has blown. I would recommend to open the playstation and first do a visual inspection. The PSU is enclosed in plastic so you won’t see much, but it will have a part number/code on it, if you google that part number you’ll find stores that sell them. I’ve seen people around here buy them from Amazon with great success :-)

New batteries always come with a charge, this is to protect the battery itself from damaging itself. Of course voltage will drop over time. First things first, double check that all the connectors are firmly in place, they should give a small click sound. But don’t put too much pressure on them as you can damage them easily. If all the connectors are connected properly, it could be possible that you received a bad battery (it happens). Simply contact iFixit with all the information you have, what you troubleshooted and they should replace it for you.

Double check if the battery connector is properly seated. I recently noticed something similar with an iPhone where the connector wasn’t 100%, but just enough for it to power on, but not to be properly detected in order for it charge.

Double check if all the connections, especially the battery connection (MacBook Air 13” Retina Display Late 2018 배터리 교체) are seated correctly in their sockets. If all the connections are good and nothing is damaged while repairing your MacBook, you probably have received a bad battery and I would recommend you to contact the store where you ordered it from to have it replaced.

I still think something is off with the screen you’re using. The touch ID signals are also coming through the connector on the board that carries the touch signal, so maybe there is still damage to one of the ribbon cables. I’ve had a iPhone 7, never been opened where the ribbon cable that carries the touch ID signal somehow broke. All the rest was functioning fine. Getting a brand new screen and swapping over the home button resulted it in being a 100% functional phone again. In regards to your question about the home button, only the home button is linked to the iPhone 7. You can re-program the serial number on the screens , but it’s not needed since there is no True Tone on the iPhone 7. The ribbon cable itself is not linked in any way to your phone.

It’s difficult to assess, but given you’ve seen blue corrosion already, this could mean that some of the electronics are not connected anymore to the circuit board or make a bad connection. Even worse could be that you have fried some components because of a short circuit by trying to power it on after a few days. Water can take a long time to evaporate. Unless you have a good understanding of electronic schematics and a multimeter I would take it to a repair shop that also does micro soldering to have a look at it. They should be able to detect any shorts or failed components on your board.

Going by from your description, I think you indeed burned the OLED display with too much heat. (4 minutes is too long). Heatguns are designed and used for paint stripping, even the lowest settings gets too high if you heat for too long or too close at the device.