Okay, as title says. My E key started doing this a year ago and I just got used to it, now my W key is doing it. I have no idea what the underside of the key is supposed to look like, but noticed that W and E, appear to be damaged?

As in, the black stuff on the outer edge of the keys, as you can see it's faded in places.

The key scissors don't appear damaged, and I'm not keen on trying to take them apart, as they are delicate.

As you can see, W has some stuff on it, but I would rather ask first if that could be causing problems, because I don't want to take the key apart for no reason.

I apologize in advance for my poor photo quality, iPhone 8 isn't the best for photos.

(Above photo.) Clip visible on left side of key (looks like there's one, but can confirm there are two.)

(Above photo.) Both clips visible on the top half of the key.

(Above photo) Hard to see, but clips still visible.

The black ink won't print on our printer. We thought it was out of ink but replaced it and the black ink still won't print. It acts like its printing but it's almost like the black printing components aren't working.

HP Officejet 4620

I can't enable 5g network on my galaxy a 73

washer maytag model MAV 7258 AWW DOESN'T GO INTO RINSE CYLCE ALL THE TIME?

Okay!!

Mine could find the watch in the app when paring to the phone, but it never displayed the code or got anywhere.

So, then I,

Turned off the Bluetooth on the Vivo active 4, before I started the pairing. It worked!!!

This is the only thing that solved it for me, and I tried everything else.

Before this I:

1. Restarted the watch and phone.
2. Tried connecting to my watch from the Bluetooth settings on my android.
3. Removed all my devices from Garmin connect app.
4. And then I turned off the Bluetooth on the watch, and started paring, and it worked.

I wish I did the last step, before I removed all of my devices...

SOLVED:

The problem was two fold. The Crucial SSD would not work, so I bought a Samsung EVO, my typical go-to—Bingo. I used another Mac to clone its drive to the EVO. Worked first time; whereas, the Crucial SSD failed.

With that resolved, I proceeded, but it was still crashing randomly. Removed one stick—fixed. I replaced that stick, and so far so good. Thank y’all, Dan, especially.

I’d even thought I had checked the RAM early on.

===============

This was a customer’s computer, so I don’t know the specific history. I think he was trying to upgrade to Ventura when it got stuck in a boot loop.

I don’t care about the data anymore so I split the Fusion Drive, figuring that one of the drives is failing. This is based on the numerous repairs I’ve done on this model. Disk utility says that both drives are OK. I tried installing the operating system on each one of them individually without luck—stuck at two minutes.

I’m using an Apple keyboard that’s plugged directly into the back of the computer.

I took out the larger drive and replaced it with the new SSD. It’s not a Samsung, which I usually prefer. I went cheap with a Crucial (I love the ram, not so much their SSDs).

I didn’t bother putting the two back together into a fusion configuration. I’ve done this repair plenty of times, and I usually just leave the original Ssd to do its own thing. This time, no matter what I try, it won’t get past two minutes left message.

Efforts:

• tried install from a brand new bootable Mojave installer

• tried installing the operating system using a new Ventura installer thumb drive

• tried installing Monterey, Catalina and El Cap.

• tried install from the web with command option and R.

• I’m about to try command option shift and R

• I’ve done a PR reset

• I’ve swapped out the ram

• I’ve rearranged the Ram

• I’ve done one Ram stick

• I’ve tried installing it from fully functional external system

• tried putting it in target mode, but you can’t install an OS from that mode on this model.

I’m considering opening up another iMac that I have just to do an install on this new Solid that I put inside the computer and then take out and put in this one.

i’ve also read that this might be related to my Internet connection. So I’m resetting the router and trying it without anything running on my Internet. It is Wi-Fi. I may have to plug it in and see if that makes any difference. Does anybody know anything about that as a possible problem.

I’ve also considered that there could be something physically wrong with the small blade format SSD. I just don’t wanna have to take the entire logic board out to remove it, but that will remain an unaddressed variable, if I can’t figure this out.

Right now it’s trying to install Mojave with two minutes. Left where I’m going to leave it running all night.

Help?

Update:

Now the Mac has:

• new clock Battery

• new solid-state drive, replacing the 2.5” hard drive

• the blade format Drive has been removed

When I try to do a new OS Install from the Internet, it freezes at two minutes remaining and says that the installer was corrupted

I’ve tried it wirelessly and with it plugged in directly to the router.

Brilliante here, focusing more on removing the battery than noting its orientation. Now that I have the replacement battery, I don’t know which way to insert it is the positive side facing inward or is it facing outward?

Thanks.

Brilliante here, focusing more on removing the battery than noting its orientation. Now that I have the replacement battery, I don’t know which way to insert it is the positive side facing inward or is it facing outward?

Thanks.