Why is my vacuum spitting out dirt?
My vacuum started spitting out dirt from the front onto the floor. Any help is appreciated.
Thank You
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My vacuum started spitting out dirt from the front onto the floor. Any help is appreciated.
Thank You
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My shark rocket vacuum is shooting dirt back i can feel it hit my feet and bought new filters and clean brush and took apart to check for clogs and unclogged in the main tube and it is doing it still , I'm ready to throw vacuum out.. Any recommendations would be appreciated thank you
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so i just want to know this so that i can engrave it without breaking it, i’m pretty sure it’s stainless steel or aluminum, but i’m not sure which
just to let you know, its a ipod video (5th gen)
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so i just want to know this so that i can engrave it without breaking it, i’m pretty sure it’s stainless steel or aluminum, but i’m not sure which
just to let you know, its a ipod video (5th gen)
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Good afternoon . Where can I find a replacement screen. A remote got throw to it. Stupid mistake.ive taken the broke off and the white screenis not damaged. Please point me in the right direction. I spent a fortune on this tv. Thank you again
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Good afternoon . Where can I find a replacement screen. A remote got throw to it. Stupid mistake.ive taken the broke off and the white screenis not damaged. Please point me in the right direction. I spent a fortune on this tv. Thank you again
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Always power off your device before beginning disassembly.
Remove the screw covers and rubber feet from the bottom of the laptop with a metal spudger.
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Thanks for share!
A malfunctioning heatsink can cause excessive heat around the CPU which will bring the processor above safe functioning temperatures. This can express itself through frequent crashes when the computer is performing strenuous tasks, and noticeable heat seeping from the bottom of the case. However, in this design, the heatsink doesn’t contain thermal paste and doesn’t direct the heat to a mechanical component like a fan, so a replacement may not help overheating unless the heatsink is visibly bent or damaged.
Web: Couponswa
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Thanks for your share!
It inspired me to write an essay on the theme “Don't be afraid to do it yourself”
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My remote sensor isn't working properly. It's not the batteries. Both my cable remote and tv remote doesn't turn the tv on, off or control the volume . When I turn it on manually, my cable remote will change channels and control everything but the volume and on/off functions so it has to be the remote sensor on the tv. The cable box responds to the cable remote. I've unplugged the remote sensor and plugged in earplugs , cleaned it with alcohol and nothing.
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Hi my TV and remote won't work together I've bought new remote but won't even tune in has my sensor gone as remote new and TV works as well x any help plz x
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My remote sensor isn't working properly. It's not the batteries. Both my cable remote and tv remote doesn't turn the tv on, off or control the volume . When I turn it on manually, my cable remote will change channels and control everything but the volume and on/off functions so it has to be the remote sensor on the tv. The cable box responds to the cable remote. I've unplugged the remote sensor and plugged in earplugs , cleaned it with alcohol and nothing.
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hi,
my samsung led - 32 inch tv sensor is not visible and not working, also not able to view screen too.
but we are hearing the sounds of the channels.
what do to ?
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So this washer seems to have had several issues and the noise during spin has been intermittent the entire time. I believe it might only do it on the high-speed spin. I was having several different issues, wash stopping at different points in the cycle and lid lock flashing. Capacitor-type humming and the spin cycle grinding or whine. The spin cycle seemed like it wasn't as high of an rpm as usual. It eventually evolved into only flashing lid lock and doing nothing else. I pulled the mainboard and found a bad capacitor and replaced that. I could then run a cycle but it would stop somewhere between wash and spin and flash lid lock. If it stopped at spin the clothes would still be soapy like it hadn't gone through a proper rinse cycle. I was still getting intermittent humming and the spin noise. I could then unplug it and run it on a low-speed spin to get the water out of the clothes but a high-speed spin cycle would usually result in horrible noise. I replaced the motor capacitor because when I pulled it, it didn't have any charge to release and I have attempted one cycle with the new capacitor and have not had the humming sound coming from the bottom of the washer. When it got to the spin cycle though it started making the high whine/grind noise. The clothes inside seemed like they had gone through a good rinse cycle this time though. The whine/grind did not start on the first spin, I believe it was the second spin. Also whenever I unplug the washer the noise immediately stops even though the basket is still spinning.
The error codes I was getting before the first two repairs were -
shifter fault
motor control fault
basket speed sensor fault
lid switch fault
After replacing the motor capacitor I got motor control fault on the one cycle that I pulled the plug on. Hoping something in here is a dead giveaway for someone with more experience.
I have now run a few more cycles and it generally stops at spin and flashes lid lock until I unplug it. At that point, I can usually run a low spin cycle and get it to complete. It seems like I only get the grinding noise if it doesn't halt on an error in the cycle. It seems like it stops before the spin cycle because it's trying to spin the basket but can't. Also if it does make it to the spin cycle that grinding noise doesn't start until it's been spinning for a bit and I believe I heard some sort of loud click immediately before the noise started when it was at full speed.
I'm now getting just the shifter fault and motor control fault error codes. In manual test mode, all the washer functions work.
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@Zachary Turnbull
I though that I has linked the correct tech sheet as per this supplier's info regarding the manufacturer's part number i.e. W10280489 unless the one I linked having the "D" at the end of the number made it slightly different.
The only thing that I can suggest is to check the drive system as per p.15 (hopefully your tech sheet is the same).
If the tests are OK then this doesn't explain why it works OK in diagnostic mode but not in normal mode though.
Perhaps there was more damage to the control board than just the one faulty capacitor that you replaced.
Perhaps the software in the control board is a bit like a computer in that there is different software that is used for diagnostics and normal operation.
Maybe when it is in diagnostics mode, it just solely tests the individual functions of each section of the washer to make sure that they are working whereas in normal mode to continue with a part of the cycle may rely on correct inputs from other parts of the machine so it knows what to do. Hopefully you get what I'm trying to say. This is all conjecture on my part.
Basically I'm wondering if it is a control board problem
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