I have to replace the motherboard on this after breaking the LCD display attachment. It's going to cost about the same to replace with the same motherboard w/o CPU vs buying a replacement motherboard with an i5 CPU for a 2011 27 iMac.

Since they look like they are the same form factor, can I just buy a motherboard for a 2011 27" iMac and stick it in my 2009 iMac 27" iMac? Are the other components compatible? Will there be issues with the GPUs?

thanks.

I have a Samsung NP305E7A -A01US I won off eBay looks good but for some reason there is no sound in the internal speakers or the headphones even thru if you click on the volume butt it is shows the bars as if should be working

is this a motherboard problem or speakers and if the speakers don't work will that cause the headphones not to work?

Thank you

This is what device manager says below

here is what is shows

when looking at it playing music it shows the following and shows no headphones setting is that mean it is a bad headphone jack in return a bad motherboard?

@dmacbook post a well focused (large) picture of your logic board. 기존 질문에 이미지 추가하기. that way we can see what you see and hopefully mark what you can check.

Both sides please. It is possible that this was caused by your aftermarket charger. It may have created a short-circuit on the board. Cheap aftermarket chargers can do this easily and it may have damage your current sensing circuit.

Start by disconnecting your battery. Plug your MagSafe in (not a knock-off ) and measure PB_Bus_G3H and let us know what the voltage is. If less than 12V you maybe looking at charger damage. If so, you do want to go ahead and check R7121 and R7122. Let us know what the resistance is on those. These are the resistor from the circuit sensing circuit that fail with knock-off chargers.

@dmacbook take a look at those two components that I've marked. Those are R7121 and R7120 and they are the ones that go on the fritz with a bad charger. Zoom in since they actually look damaged :-)

Hi,

I have a MacBook Pro mid-2015 15” Retina Display, A1398, EMC 2910, board number 820-00426-A, 16gb RAM, i7 core, 2.8ghz, Discrete Graphics.

I got this MacBook over a year ago, and about six months ago, the charger, and charging port area started getting really hot. (In my lack of knowledge, I was using a cheap knockoff MagSafe.)

It still worked fine, so I continued to use it. Then it started to only work intermittently, and I’d have to fiddle with the connection to get it to charge. Finally the charger seemed to die, and would not charge my laptop, showing no indicator light until occasionally AFTER being unplugged from the MacBook.

Wanting a reliable charger, I spent the $80+ to get a new MagSafe directly from Apple. When it arrived, I plugged it in, with no response; no light, not fans spinning, nothing.

Having had no previous experience repairing devices, I looked up all the YouTube videos I could, and tried the SMC and NVRAM resets many times.

Thinking it was the DC-in board, I bought and installed a replacement, but still got no light. I then replaced the battery, and my MacBook turned on, the battery having arrived with 82% charge, but still there was no charging. I replaced the right IO board, as well, and even tried to replace the motherboard (though the eBay motherboard I got was a scam, and was in fact worse than the existing board.

Since then, I have put it on the shelf. I recently got back into it, as our old MacBooks are becoming insufficient, or breaking. I got myself a multimeter, and the boardview and schematics for my board number, and have run several diode/continuity tests on several of the main power rails, and other than under the heat sink, which I can’t remove yet because I have no replacement thermal paste yet. Everything seems in order (other than what seems like there might be some corrosion under the heat sink), though I can’t figure out how to get the multimeter to measure the DC voltage the board is receiving.

Is there any component under the heat sink that could prevent charging if corroded? The MacBook runs perfectly with battery power, other than not charging, though the battery has long since died.

I know that neither the battery or the charger is not the problem, because I have tested both the old and new batteries, and the charger with someone else’s A1398 MacBook, and they work fine.

Sorry this is long, I just wanted to be detailed so the problem will be as obvious as possible to those who might know how to recognize it.

I have no soldering tools, or heat rework station, though I’m willing to get them if need be, I would just really like to avoid component level repair.

Can anyone help me? I really need this to be fixed, and can’t afford to get a replacement.

Front side of motherboard:

Back side of motherboard:

So I have this mini-split unit Whirlpool WA5060Q, the fan on the outdoor compressor refuses to turn on, the console inside the house works fine but it's not cooling of course. When I opened the outdoor compressor I can see there's a scorched trace that ends in a "DCFAN" connection (image below), no wonder the fan doesn't turn on.

before-back:

before-front:

before-location:

after-front:

after-front-close:

after-front-backlit:

after-back-close:

I don't know much about PCB repairs but would replacing the trace be the fix? or is there potentially something broken that burned the original trace and will burn the new one I put in?

I'm just trying to get an idea of what I'm getting into before I dive into it

If i touch the screen it does not work but software is working

My Playststion 2 opens to a screen that says 'Browser/ system configuration' screen on some of my games. It will not load game when this screen pops up. It also says to use a Playstation or Playstation format game. What does this mean??