it may have to do with the fact that the neck is removable, eventually the connection between the neck and body becomes compromised. Try putting a rubber shim behind the small board where the neck connects so there is always a proper connection. (have you tried a new set of batteries?)

go into the game options and try calibrating the audio and video....sounds like someone has adjusted them to an extreme one direction or the other

try unplugging the normal controller and only have your guitar plugged in

The place to go for that info is the fcc id website. Go there, type in the FCC ID number on the sticker of the guitar, and all of those schematics and internal workings are posted there. The FCC ID website has been an invaluable resource for me. Here is the link: https://fccid.io/search.php

I agree with the other answer….they need to be cleaned….my brother is a techie guy and longggggg ago, he would fix them by simply turning the knobs back and forth in quick succession over and over….all the way up and all the way down, rapidly. This seemed to always remedy the problem. PLEASE MAKE NOTE: Have the device off when you do it. (you don’t want to go deaf when ya turn it all the way up!)

Try changing the video driver back to an older version

It will be the same….problem with the majority of devices that they make these days, is that they use surface mount components instead of board mount. The problem with surface mount is this; eventually the connections get loose and the whole thing becomes disconnected from the board from the stress of plugging and unplugging it over and over. Surface mount is exactly what it sounds like…there are no “legs” on the connector that actually poke through to the other side of the board and get soldered thus making it a securely anchored port, they are instead flush with the board and just sit on top of it and get soldered…. A stupid decision on the manufacturers part - to start using this type of port….or maybe smart, because eventually and inevitably they self-destruct and the consumer is forced to get a new device because that is usually cheaper than the repair cost. The only cost effective way to fix it is to do it yourself if you know how. You can get 10 USB ports for a $1.00 on ebay.

Download the manual…it has all of that crap in there. https://www.rosewill.com/wp-content/uploads/downloadable/user_manual...-usermanual-v2.pdf

You need to be sure that the new adapter is functioning properly….do you have another device that you can test it with…or maybe a friend has a device you can try it on… Perhaps you can find your answer here… https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.ph...-G750JM-Completely-Dead-No-Power-No-Lights https://driverfixissues.com/index/gl503v...-fy064/asus-rog-gl503vd-fy064-wont-start-up.html or here: My Asus laptop won’t power on/boot up at all after shutting it down

It is not the BIOS battery causing that. The BIOS battery is simply power for when the system is off. It retains the BIOS settings and keeps the date and time. If the battery was bad, your time and date would be wrong every time it is turned on. Can you see any light at all coming from the screen? I.E. you can tell the difference between a dark screen on a system that is off, opposed to one that is actually on but at the same time dark. Also, with the USB device thing, I would assume that you never went into the BIOS and set it to boot from a USB device, so it wouldn’t light up until you were actually booted into the operating system. And just a side note, the BIOS battery is usually one of the larger button style batteries, such as a 2024 or 2032 and is easily identifiable. TRY THIS: Hook up an external monitor to it and see if that works…after you do that, we will go from there…