Not much info to go on here, but... Generally looking for updates, means it is going to look on the internet on the manufacturers website. If there is no network connection it will just look forever. If the computer has an ethernet port get a cable and plug it in to your router. If there is no ethernet port, it needs a WiFi connection, which would have been a part of your setup. If you do not have internet, take the computer to a friend's house and try to connect there.

I have doubts that the engine is overheating. They don't last long after repeated overheating. If there is a restriction in the engine intake air filter, the engine won't overheat. Actually it will run colder because the increased vacuum at the carburetor will draw more fuel than the engine can use, causing a rich mixture (too much fuel, not enough air). Black smoke will be a symptom here. Cooling air, on the other hand is drawn in by the fan at the top of the engine, and blown down through the metal shroud across the cylinder head(s), which is where most of the heat is generated. When you say you take the engine cover off and it runs like a champ, which cover do you mean? If it's the hood you raise up to add fuel, that's one thing, if it's the metal shroud on the engine, that's something else again. A lean carburetor mixture (too much air and not enough fuel) can cause an engine to overheat even with plenty of cooling air. Backfiring under load will be a symptom in this case, caused by a plugged fuel...

There is a lot going on here. Your electrical system relies on proper connections to the positive and negative poles on the battery. The positive wires are pretty obvious, since each one goes to the device it is to power, like the starter or headlights. The negative, or ground, side of the system isn't quite so obvious since it often uses the major metal parts of the car in place of actual wires. Sometimes those wires get accidentally removed or broken. The car dying when the brakes are applied, is just from the battery being discharged. There isn't enough current to run the engine and brake lights. If you have a volt meter, the voltage of a good battery with the car turned off will be about 12 to 12.5 volts. With the car running, that voltage will be above 13 volts, and about 14 volts on a fully charged battery. If you measure anything less than 10 volts on the battery, it's life is is being reduced. I would start by checking the ground system, since missing ground wires cause various circuits to seek...

Deep cycle batteries are going to be your best bet for more run time. Some electric carts are 36 volt, and most newer ones are 48 volt. I can see your friend connecting three 12 volt batteries in series for a 36 volt cart, that would be fine, but there would still would be be a penalty in run time VS six 6 volt batteries. You can do the math. Add up the AH rating of each battery in a bank, and you will see the difference. No free lunch unfortunately. Some carts have a 12 volt plug like a cigarette lighter, so if you convert to 12 volt, you will have to rewire that. Lead acid batteries in anything, will last about 5 years. Golf cart applications, unless kept on a float charge will go even sooner. Gas carts don't have that problem haha. Good luck

Often this complaint is caused by a broken spider that connects the drive shaft to the drum itself. It is replaceable, but a pretty big job. If you can lift the drum up from inside more than a half inch or so, it will be the spider and not a bearing issue. The problem is that the corrosives in the detergent weakens the aluminum spider and on the spin cycle it fails. The spider, due to corrosion is not weldable in any permanent way. Always leave the door open a bit on front load washers so the inside drys out between loads. This will reduce the corrosive action. Letting it dry out will also keep bacteria from making the drum smell. Good luck

Generally, the resistor is in the air duct, probably on the engine side of the firewall, passenger side. Look for a plastic plate with a black plastic plug with 3 or 4 wires going into it held on with two screws. Remove the screws and the resistor assembly will come out. It will look like a bunch of springs with the ends connected to the terminals that the plug attaches to. The reason the resistors are in the duct is that they get hot and the air blowing through the duct keeps them cool. Good luck

You don't supply the model number. ALWAYS, ALWAYS include the model number. The mode the TV is in is called demo mode. Follow this link for some instructions. http://support-us.samsung.com/cyber/popup/iframe/pop_tr... If that doesn't work, try substituting your model number for the one at the end of the link given. Good luck

That van does not have a separate relay. It is incorporated into the starter solenoid, which is mounted to the starter motor. Follow the positive battery cable down under the engine. There will be that big wire and one or two smaller wires. The small wire will be the one from the ignition switch to operate the starter. You need to make sure 12 volts is getting to the small wire or nothing will work. you can use a test light available almost anywhere. If there is 12 volts at the small wire with the ignition switch in the start position, then, if you are brave, you can short the big battery cable to the bolt under the rubber cover on the solenoid. Caution! the engine will crank and there will be sparks. It's alot of current to crank the engine. Don't let anything touch the chassis or engine block when shorting the big terminals, and only do it for a second or two. It will make some noise when the starter engages so be prepared. If you have the 12 volts at the small wire, and the engine cranks using the...

Sounds like no power to the unit. There is an AC adapter (wall wart), but also batteries for back up power inside. Make sure the AC adapter has power, and is plugged into the unit. Replace the internal batteries. Update (07/11/2016): Ok, didn't know it had backlight etc. Since the indicator lights are functioning, the processor is probably working and LCD isn't getting data or power. Some LCD's are socketed and have been known to creep out of their socket. These days that's a long shot tho. In this case you will have to call the manufacturer. It may be a pattern failure with this model. They will know that, although they may not admit it without a little social engineering haha. Good luck.

Probably ignition module. They are complete crap. It will be the plastic part on the side of the distributor that all the wires go into. It takes a special thin wall socket (5mm I think) to remove it. Pretty easy.