I haven't yet looked into it further, so there's no new update beyond my Mar 10 one:

20240310: swapping 10 with 9, and 7 with 6 (polarity reversals) has given me 1080 60fps on Win 10 with Logitech Capture, but now my Linux PC doesn't recognize the camera.

If you're using a Windows PC with Logitech Capture, making the indicated swaps is probably the way to go.

I haven't had time to troubleshoot the twisted pairs, but I'm interested to learn how your splice works out, Shane.

Hi, Shane. Yes, I'm interested to see any images of the peeled plug.

When splicing, I'd still recommend opening the camera so that you can verify continuity from end to end, with no short-circuits to neighboring wires. Unless, of course, you're completely confident that your distal soldering is discrete and clean. If you're capable of the splice, I think you'll find opening/reassembling the camera to be short work -- and worth your while to be doubly sure that each pin's continuity is what you're expecting.

I now think the pinout pictured above is wrong. That wiring let me used the camera at 30fps on Linux and Windows 10, but no 60fps. Leaving TX and RX pairs where they were diagrammed, but switching the polarities has allowed me to get 1080 60fps on Windows 10 with Logitech Capture, but now my Linux PC doesn't recognize the camera. I've still got more investigating to do, unfortunately.

I need to review the SSRX and SSTX routing/pinouts. I haven't used the camera much beyond verifying it worked; looking closely tonight, it appears that the high-speed data isn't working, not recognizing the USB 3.x.

I don't see what you mean about the difference. I do, however, recognize it is confusing that there are different grounds -- one for the entire cable's jacket/sheath; "pin 5"; and "pin 8" of the diagrams -- 8 being solely for the combination of twisted-pair sheaths. IIRC, pin 8 has separate continuity from the cable jacket and pin 5, though they're each a "ground". I'm not sure when/if it makes a practical difference, though.

Not sure. Can you 100% verify that the SSRX and SSTX twisted pairs were identified and grounded correctly? You're certain that it's plugged into a USB 3.x port?

Did you replace the cord or only the USB plug? What plug type did you use? If you did soldering, did you verify continuities afterward?

I updated the guide after your comment! There are now many more details to guide repairs.

Manuel, if this is still a pending project for you, I've now updated the guide with graphics and instructions to repair the camera with an inexpensive donor cable. Cheers.