iPad 4 GSM Power & Volume Buttons Replacement
Use this guide to replace the power & volume buttons.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the cellular model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.
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Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
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Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
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Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
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The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
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The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
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Remove the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD to the aluminum frame.
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Peel back and remove the piece of electrical tape covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector.
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Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors securing the headphone jack cable to the logic board.
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Peel back and remove the piece of tape covering the SIM board cable ZIF connector.
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Flip up the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector.
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Using the tip of a spudger, pull the SIM board cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the SIM board to the aluminum frame.
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Peel back and remove the adhesive tape covering the headphone jack assembly.
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Using the tip of the spudger, flip up the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector.
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Insert the tip of the spudger underneath the microphone ribbon cable, removing it from its ZIF connector.
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Slide the spudger to the left, releasing the adhesive holding the microphone ribbon cable to the headphone jack assembly.
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Remove the following screws securing the power & volume button cable to the aluminum frame:
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Two 5.5 mm Phillips #0
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One 2.6 mm Phillips #0
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Two 2.6 mm Phillips #0
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Wedge the tip of the plastic opening tool underneath the top side of the power button.
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Pry the topside of the power button up off the power button bracket.
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To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 4 GSM Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.
To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 4 GSM Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.
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