- Marketing Strategist by day Mac Fanatic 24/7
- Got repair certified...
- Working on my app development skills for the iPhone/iPad SDK... stay tuned.
- If your business needs to have new life breathed back into it, I'm here to help. Been working to revive, promote and grow (medium to small) businesses since 1999. Not a plug, just a fact. I like doing work with companies within the tech community.
***I also take pro bono cases on a quarterly basis. Feel free to contact me with your organization's situation if you need help (typically applies to not-for-profit orgs and 1-man startups).
Cheers
Jason
j.carter@creativeunleashed.com
질문
Hi all - This 09' MBP will not go past the apple/gong/spinning wheel on booting up... it either kernel panics, or reboots...
더 읽어보기Hi all - So, while I'm reading more and more about how the bus communicates with the SDXC slot on this PCIe 1.1 powered...
더 읽어보기For those of you who've worked with this model, I'm sure it has at least crossed your mind... the space provided for the...
더 읽어보기Fixing a liquid-spill victim from an employee... the antenna cable connections were stuck to the airport card....
더 읽어보기Hi all - Got a 2010 27" iMac without the graphic card (it apparently failed... so I was looking for a new one). In the...
더 읽어보기Hi all -- Picked up a spare iPad 1st Gen 64GB WiFi only model... I've torn down newer models, but unsure about the 1st Gen...
더 읽어보기Specs: Macbook Pro 17-in, Mid 2010 2.53GHz i5 8GB 1067MHz DDR3 Intel HD 288MB OS X.8.5 (12F37) Summary: Picked up this...
더 읽어보기2011 Dual-core Mac Mini 2.5GHz i5 (Bought a "for parts" Mac Mini to work on) After installing a borrowed Mac Mini drive......
더 읽어보기Hi - I purchased a working 11" Macbook Air with the isight not recognized or working. I know these MBA displays can be...
더 읽어보기Hi all - Just curious if anyone has any real experience with replacing the stock LCS with a non-stock option (or non-stock...
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Paul -- just trying to offer a bit of assistance with visuals. These are the bits of "tape" to which you refer I gather. Granted, this plethora comes from multiple models, but this should clear things up. This pvc tape-like layer offers protection from the surface components on the GPU and CPU (note the bumps and small soldered on bits on both the GPU and CPU). It helps prevent the heat sink from damaging those bits (metal to components) while allowing the chips' "face" to touch or come within close proximity (with thermal grease) of the heat sink without damage. This "tape" layer also helps regulate the even pressure applied across the chips and their sensors (this is tested with ASD software from Apple to determine whether or not the heat sink is set in place properly). Without this tape layer, you will likely fail a heatsink/CPU sensor test... and run into problems. You also run the risk of damaging the components on the chips. TAKE NOTE: the CPU tape has small additional "strips" with adhesive on all...
더 읽어보기Short answer: Yes. Early 2013's logic boards are compatible with 2012 displays. 100%. ***The issue there is that the 2013 version further addressed (beyond the 2012 displays version 2.0) the intent to eliminate (not just reduce) the continued frequency of "image ghosting" that customers were experiencing. There was also a shift in percentages represented of LCDs that were LG vs. Samsung (different issue entirely, related I'm guessing to availability and/or strained relationship with Samsung), but that nothing to do with compatibility. If I recall (from a conversation with an apple corp employee friend), they applied an altered version of the coating to the glass face of the LCD (making small changes to improve) that wouldn't affect function. But that's it. (Jon... I'll address your comments and the implications that go outside the bounds of this question, just a bit... tomorrow when I have a chance). I almost feel like you introduced the idea and need for a glossary of terms manual when discussing all of...
더 읽어보기One of a handful of reasons... Here's the list, in order of simplicity (easiest to most difficult or expensive): 1. I'm working on the assumption that anything is possible, and that you are amateur in repairs. First check to make sure you're using the appropriate display assembly. This model can use both the 2010 and the 2011 11.6" display assembly with the 30-pin (I believe it's 30... I'll check) LVDS cable connector. While both a 2012 & 2013 looks very similar, they are not compatible because the LVDS cable is ever so slightly different. Make sure you have the right one. That being said... 2. The LVDS cable isn't seated properly. Reseat all cables (this procedure should be done while the battery is disconnected... ALWAYS) 3. The pins on the new display's LVDS cable (or on the port of the logic board that receives it) are damaged and you will either need a new display (if the LVDS cable coming from the display is damaged), or need a new logic board (or repair the current one) if the problem lies with the...
더 읽어보기To be clear, is your time capsule functioning properly? Or do you just hear it running but it is not responsive or recognized on the network? The following would apply IF the Time Capsule front LED is not lit when plugged in, but you can hear the fan and possibly the drive attempt to spin up (usually never achieves full "throttling" speed for normal use under this condition. The probable Issue: (Anecdotal) One of my time capsules, in between being moved physically and unplugged, refused to function properly after being plugged back in. The LED light would not turn on, the drive would audibly spin, and it was never recognized (networking, plugged in, etc). The Problem Diagnosed: After some testing, was the breakdown of solder joints (much the same as some of the old macbook pro logic boards with GPU issues, etc). The joints had broken (microscopic breaks) and were not totally functioning in every spot. Because I don't have rework equipment (have to ask to access it and I don't like asking for favors), I...
더 읽어보기I could certainly be wrong here, but it sounds like you've burned through a great deal of the battery and it's remaining life is dismal and the phone is working improperly because of it. I had similar issues with a 4S iphone. Take it in to Apple and have them external test the phone and it's battery (they have a diagnostic app that works great... I have it as well, it will tell them everything you need to you know). Here's the virtual concierge to save you a little time setting up an appointment (if you're US-based): https://idmsa.apple.com/IDMSWebAuth/logi...-en&segment=R033&grpcode=g002&path=%2Fhis...
더 읽어보기Hi Vinh -- You posted the question awhile back, so you likely have moved on from this mac... but just in case it's sitting on shelf (like I do) when I hit a brick wall with an item I either haven't figured out how to repair or can't afford to fix just yet (due to mostly having too many projects in the works. lol), here's some input. 1. take a quality heat gun with a focusing cap (tunnels the air into a smaller opening) and go over the RAM with the gun on a high setting. Be consistent with your sweep, holding it roughly half an inch from the board or so. Be careful not to actually touch the gun to the board. The silicon/resin/etc of the board won't hold up to direct contact from the heated metal of the gun. Also, you might want to put the board on a surface that can handle the heat, or like myself, on a suspended metal tray that can't heat and burn anything underneath. Do this a couple of times until you're satisfied you have sufficiently heated up the RAM and the solder connections underneath. Allow it to...
더 읽어보기This is more "posing a question" to stimulate further discussion, than an answer, but... Apple occasionally (through firmware and OS updates) update changes that enable previous or current generations of product to increase transit rate capability of existing airport cards (ie, instead of a 802.11n with a transit rate of 300, retina's with the "n" class card can use up to 450. Originally, the A1369/A1370 (2010/2011) macbook air's model(s) were spec'd at a transit rate of 150 I believe, but are now capable of 300 due to updates incorporate with the OS and firmware. But that capability - as I understand it - is on 5GHz networks (I think). Can't be sure on that one. It doesn't change the 802.11a/b/g/n/ac .... but it is pushing the card in its capabilities. Please... anyone feel free to jump in on the comment and correct any misinformation. I don't mind :)
더 읽어보기Ouch! So while there is certainly the possibility that I am wrong (although in this case, I doubt it), it sounds like... you either: 1. shorted the logic board fuse for the backlight of the one you returned it to (where you originally took the screen from) 2. damaged the pins on the cable from the display 3. damaged the port on the logic board for the cable from the display 4. didn't seat the cable properly and need to re-seat it. As far as the activation, there is none. I know this for a fact. HOWEVER, Apple DOES keep a record of the serial number from the display and which System Serial it's supposed to be tied to. However, they only record it from the macs that come into their stores for work or repair. They do not record the data from the macs off the assembly lines. Just FYI
더 읽어보기All due respect] to Machead3 (an excellent contributor), this model does in fact have power-on pads (you by-passed the problem... so this is for future readers of the posting). Take a look at the pic. Here you go... This is a Mid 2012, but I know for a fact (because I opened up my personal early 2013) the pads are in the same place. Sorry if the pic isn't too clear.
더 읽어보기Hi Walter -- Do you still need the key? If so, which one? And do you need the small plastic assembly or metal arm in some cases underneath or just the key cap itself. I save all my dead keyboards to salvage keys as long as they don't look heavily worn. Let me know... not selling, but it will only cost $.45 to send you a key. LOL Jason
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SSD Upgrade: Check out OWC's Aura/Aura Pro 6G... or Transcends Jetdrive 720 (with a 960GB option!!)
Applecare: Yes, when buying the retina (especially if like myself... you have the top end models (2.7/2.8GHz i7 16GB DDR3 768GB SSD), you should invest in applecare. Buy it on ebay if you want to save a bit of cash. I got my first 15" retina applecare on ebay (regularly $349) for $245. Granted, that was some time ago. But still, saved $100. And my macbook pro retina was $3400. Well worth the $249, even if just to get the parts for free. LOL. I have since had 4x retina displays replaced because of image ghosting, and 2x replaced because of logic board issues (I own 75+ macs for work). Applecare is worth it for expensive machines. Even if you work on them yourself and are a certified mac tech like me. Still worth it.
So... while I generally agree with everything said here, I wanted to address the battery issue. I've now stripped out 7x highly used and dying, or damaged batteries without damaging them. I use a 1-1/2" wide very stiff (with a dull front edge, similar to this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/32522800?wmlsp...). I them wrap the entire blade in electrical tape to soften edges. Then, coming at various strategic angles (depends on which portion of the battery I'm removing), I go under each. From a top down view with the battery at the bottom and the logic board on top, the two middle portions are the most difficult (with the middle one on the right being the trickiest) to remove. Leave the two middle portions for last... for one, that's where the trackpad ribbon/trackpad guard is, but also simply because u can go underneath the outside portions to get to those (once you've gotten the outside portions lifted away).
jcarter
@jcarter51005
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회원 가입일 03/28/10
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