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Repair and disassembly guides for GE Microwave ovens.

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Fuse blowing when door is opened

Fuse blows if door is opened before end of heating. Can be opened anytime not in heating part of cycle.

Update (08/16/2018)

Model is JVM3160 Df. How would I find the schematic for this?

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davkal what model is your microwave?

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PC 노트북 배터리

큰 전력 향상을 위한 손쉬운 수리.

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PC 노트북 배터리

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The door safety interlock switch is bad or the connection terminals at the magnetron capacitor is loose causing arching/intermittent voltage surge. WARNING the capacitor is storing high voltage and is a potential shock hazard.

A qualified repair technician is highly suggested to service your microwave oven.

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I replaced the capacitor. I have had the door switches out and don't appear to be bad. Fuse does not blow if I end cycle with the cancel button.

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My microwave oven had a similar issue. Opening the door while on is another option to stop the cooking cycle. My fuse blowing was a result of one of the two interlock switches failing. I assume your replacement fuse is the proper type and specific rating. Sounds like the fuse your using is sensitive to the voltage surge when interrupting the cooking cycle by opening the door. You could try a ceramic delay burn fuse it is not your standard fast blow fuse. It absorbs surge and is available with the same rating as the original fuse.

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Had the switches out. Seem to be ok. Mounted in plastic so should not short to ground. If fuse does not blow it will still trip the 20 amp circuit breaker.

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I found the schematic and trouble shooting chart folded inside the back of the control panel on my JVM3160DF2WW. Did you find a solution to your fuse blowing problem? Mine is blowing the 20A fuse at first when opened door during cooking. I found the lower left hand bracket for the door hinge was loose (the spot weld broke). I fixed it with a small low profile bolt and a nut with lock washer in a pre-drilled hole behind the door when you remove the door. The door was sagging a bit before the fix but it blew another fuse on startup. I need to check the door switches.

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Most homes have circuitry that's limited to a 3000w per set and you can have multiple sets such as when set runs the ceiling lights other sets run other rooms walls or sections of the house. However just 3,000 watt limit makes it so you can't run a frigerator the toaster and a heater or a microwave on the same circuit. If that was your case there would be some understanding of why you could be tripping the circuit when you open the door in microwave but I don't think that's your case. You should test the microwave on an unoccupied circuit (that is one that has little or nothing plugged into it most likely a garage). If the device were to trip the circuit all by itself that would mean that there is a short within the microwave and the door could be all or part of the trigger. A spot where our concurred should be noticeable you are in fact creating a surge which is what trips the breaker and this should be noticeable if you were to get inside it. Since you have a limited electrical knowledge I would recommend replacing the unit strictly on the grounds that is much safer than having a microwave burn down in your kitchen.

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Casper

If you read my answer, it said the fuse was blown, not that the circuit breaker tripped. I think almost all microwaves have a 15A or 20A fuse at the inlet power cord. Also, what makes you think I have limited electrical knowledge? I have an advanced degree in Electrical Engineering and after looking at the schematic, I have a part on order that I suspect is causing the problem. Additionally, circuit breakers trip based on current flow exceeding their rated limit, not wattage as you said. Standard kitchen wiring calls for 20A lines for appliances. At 120 volts it would only take 2400 watts to cause a 20A circuit breaker to trip.

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Arthur Rubinstein I do not see where CASPER YOUNG directed anything toward your answer or toward you. I do not see where it was said that "you" have a limited electrical knowledge. It looks to me like his answer is directed toward the OP. Consider cooling your jets and not to take things personal.

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So Arthur : what part did you order? Did it work? Mine does the same stuff. Replaced all the door switches, even though the originals checked out ok. They were cheap. Trying, w limited success, to train the wife to turn the unit off before opening door.

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The first part I ordered was a replacement for the Power Relay because I found mine would sometimes stay closed or opened slowly allowing power to still flow to the high voltage transformer. If the monitor switch closes before this relay opens it will blow the fuse. The part was ordered from China on ebay for $4, SONG CHUAN 302 302WP-1AH-C M02 12VDC and took 2 weeks to come. The relay in the microwave was the same number except M07 which I do not think is available anymore. The M02 is probably faster opening so it is better. That still did not correct the fuse blowing but I think it was one reason. I found the Monitor switch, the middle of the 3 switches on mine not always working properly. After replacing the monitor switch (KW3A normally closed from ebay) the fuse did not blow when opening the door to interrupt a cook cycle. Comments are limited in size so read the next comment also...

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I found some other strange behavior that was related to the door sagging (see my comment above) and also how tightly the door closed. After fixing the door hinge, I noticed there was some slack on the right side of the door where the handle is. I could move the door slightly by pushing and pulling on the handle without opening it. I could also move the door up and down by pushing up under the handle (enough to cause the Secondary switch, the bottom one to open and close). I got rid of most of this slack by loosening the 2 screws that holds the bracket for the door switches and making sure the bracket was pushed down (against the two plastic overhangs that only let it go down so far) and simultaneously pushed back into the microwave so that the door would close tighter. The holes for the screws were slotted to allow some movement. When your done you can test the operation of each switch with and ohmeter and repeatedly opening and closing the door. Check your door first, easier than replacing the relay.

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