기기를 수리하세요 커뮤니티에 동참하기 상점

Model A1989, EMC 3358. A refresh of the existing design, with updated processor options and a change to the keyboard materials. Available in Silver and Space Gray. Released in May 2019.

123 질문 전체 보기

옵션

Microsoldering components not sticking

Block Image

Hi

I have done microsoldering before and had no problems with components not sticking but this time I am having no luck what so ever

Does anyone have a solution for this

It would be greatly appreciated if someone could help me with this one because I have done what I know

Used the correct tip for the job

Used flux

Tinned the pads

Used the correct temperature

Thanks:-)

답변되었습니다! 답변 보기 저도 같은 문제를 겪고 있습니다

좋은 질문 입니까?

예 아니요
점수 2
댓글 30개

What component is it you're replacing?

If it's a cap, res or inductor from a roll of components, I suppose it could be something off with the terminals on the component (I rarely have that though). Maybe try another component if you've got one?

의

It’s a verity of components

Caps

Resistor

Ferrites

Iv tried loads off my roll and they are all doing the same thing

의

Huh, that's weird; I've come across the odd comp in a roll here and there, but never several on several rolls...

Did you buy these from the same vendor you've always used? (Reputable, like DigiKey or similar?)

의

This is actually my first time ordering from Digi-Key

Every other time was off a donor board

의

Oh and they were all from Digi-Key

의

댓글 25개 더보기

댓글 달기

답변 3개

필터:
가장 유용함 가장 최근 가장 오래된
선택된 답변

옵션

Hi

I found tinning the components would help make things a bit easier

Perhaps they just needed a head start to want to stick ?

Thanks to everyone who has helped me

@oldturkey03

@danj

@arbaman

@imicrosoldering

@flannelist

And lemerise(sorry It wouldn’t let me put a @ for that one)

Thanks again:-)

해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

예 아니요
점수 1
댓글 달기
가장 유용한 답변

옵션

The solution for this is “more heat” One of the first things you need to learn when starting microsoldering is “ground plain” and its effects.  For the component you have showing I would be using an iron to tin the pads so they are puffy and then use hot air to place the component.

해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

예 아니요
점수 5

댓글 22개:

Same as I do, when it's cold I join forces, heatgun in one hand and iron in the other.

의

Hi Chris

Your advice for more heat is greatly appreciated and I will try it again

I did try 500deg c and even THAT didn’t work Witch really had me thinking, is it just a bad reel of components?,the reason for me thinking this is it’s the second time this has happened ,I started with one bad component and tried to apply my new one and no luck ,so I tried another part of the board and I got no luck ,so I tried a different component all together (a fuse previously it was a cap I was trying so it’s a different reel)and it went on with no problems

I am aware that this sort of thing is uncommon to the point of nearly unheard of but I can get my head round it as I have done microsoldering before on all sorts of devices and never ever had this problem!

I was told by some people here try a lower temp according to what the components listing said so il try that as well

thanks again for all the help it’s means a lot!:-)

의

@hellomacos - More heat is not more temp! Its making sure the board is at a high enough temp so the area you are working on is at temp.

Think of a sheet of copper heating one corner only requires heating the corner area, but the rest of the sheet of copper will wick the heat away quite quickly so you need to hold the heat to the area long enough so the area stays warm (just below the flow temp of solder) so when you focus the heat to do the soldering task the soldering the joint doesn't fail!

We call this pre-heating. Depending on the size and shape of the logic board the area might not need too long to warm or it may need more as there is a lot of copper which is wicking the heat away.

Once the board is at temp using an iron to tin the pad if its bare. Frankly, I just use some solder-wick to flatten the joint to place the small SMD just using flux paste to hold it in place adding fresh solder either using hot air or an iron. Again the component size and what the area has that I need to worry about and the amount of copper which will suck the heat away.

의

@danj

Thanks I will try the temp at 375deg c and a higher more heat and plenary for flux

Thanks again for the advice:-)

의

@hellomacos I don't see a lot of flux residue on your solder pads. Looks like a blob of solder is stuck to the pad. More heat, more flux should help with this. You must tin the solder pads properly, tin your soldering tip.

의

댓글 17개 더보기

댓글 달기

옵션

Make sure you thin the two pads with a nice amount of solder then add a small amount of flux. Heat the pads with hot air and when you see the solder liquify just drop the capacitor on the pads using tweezers. On a Qwick hot air station I use 430 with 50-60 air flow for a 0201 component. BTW check the black IC near this location I think there's a bridge on two pins.

해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

예 아니요
점수 2

댓글 3개:

Thanks for the advice I give it another shot!

I checked for a bridge and there isn’t one

It looks like one in the photo but it’s just the light reflecting of some isopropyl alcohol that hasn’t evaporated yet

Thanks again:-)

의

@hellomacos I'd give attention to @honakrisi, everything else notwithstanding oxidation will keep things from sticking.

의

@uchetil

I l will have a look

Thanks for letting me know:-)

의

댓글 달기

귀하의 답변을 추가하세요

HelloMacOS 님은 대단히 고마워 할 것입니다.
조회 통계:

24 시간 전: 1

7일 전: 1

30일 전: 4

전체 시간: 373