Pentax Super Program Repair

• Open cell foam, self-adhesive, 1.5 mm thick: For light seals and mirror bumpers
• Isopropyl alcohol: General cleaning
• Cotton buds: General cleaning
• Contact cement: Adhesive for attaching leatherette
• Molybdenum grease: Lubrication for mechanical latching points

The most common failures for the Pentax Super Program are a stuck reflex mirror or an advance lever that winds continuously (aka, "infinite wind"). Both have the same root cause, which are degraded rubber dampers in the mirror box mechanism. The failure can usually be repaired by cleaning out the old material.

Various electrical issues are somewhat common and are often caused by corroded battery contacts or internal wiring, which is repairable. There are also two solenoids inside the camera, one that releases the mirror and one that controls the aperture, which can fail and cause issues.

If you are already performing significant disassembly of the camera for a repair, consider doing a more complete overhaul of the camera to reduce the chance of future issues. The following service will address the most common failure points of the Super Program.

• Mirror box mechanism: Remove old degraded rubber bumpers and clean all affected components.
• Shutter block: Remove old degraded rubber bumpers and clean curtain pivots.
• Viewfinder: Clean and replace old foam light/dust seals.
• Light seals: Remove and replace old foam light/dust seals.

In general, cameras do not require lubrication to function. They should be able to operate normally without oil or grease. Consequently, if a camera is not functioning, adding lubrication is not the solution. But there are some areas where adding proper lubrication will improve performance or reduce wear. Whenever possible, use the service manual for your specific camera model to identify critical points. When that isn't available, some general guidelines can be used to determine what kind of lubrication a mechanism might benefit from.

Generic levers and gears: No lubrication. Most of the mechanisms in a camera shouldn't be lubricated. A latch moving back and forth or an idler gear spinning do not require lubrication. If such a mechanism is sticking, it needs to be disassembled and cleaned. Lubrication is not free and comes with drawbacks, mainly that it attracts dirt and grime. If an interface is lubricated, it needs regular cleaning and re-lubrication to maintain. So the first rule is, unless it's serves a specific purpose, don't use lubrication.

Fast moving shutter mechanisms: A lightweight synthetic oil (e.g. NyOil). These are gears and shafts that spin or move rapidly when the shutter is fired. Some cameras require oiling the interfaces to get more consistent shutter speeds, but the shutter in the Super Program runs dry, without any lubrication. When servicing the shutter, cleaning and reassembly is all that is required.

Latching points: A heavy weight lithium grease with molybdenum disulfide (NLGI 3-4). There are a lot of metal-to-metal interfaces where mechanisms interact with each other. Sliding, hooking, latching, etc. These are often high friction interfaces and if left unlubricated can wear over time. Choose a grease that is very sticky and will stay in place on the applied surfaces. The moly additive helps further reduce wear at the surface of the materials.

High load interfaces: A medium weight lithium grease with molybdenum disulfide (NLGI 2-3). The film advance mechanism would fit into this category where it's common practice to grease the shaft of main wind gear, providing a much smoother feel and, more importantly, preventing wear.

Knob and dial detents: A medium weight lithium grease (NLGI 1-3). Shutter speed dials, aperture rings, etc. Most of the time the clicks will be provided by some kind of spring loaded feature jumping between grooves. Picking the best lubrication for these interfaces can require some trial and error as getting the proper feel is highly dependent on the geometry of the detents, the force of the spring, and the types of interfacing materials.