이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
이 안내서를 사용하여 삼성 갤럭시 S10e의 배터리를 교체하세요.
배터리는 강력한 접착제로 고정되어 있습니다. (90% 이상) 고농도 이소프로필 알콜을 이용하여 배터리 제거 과정을 보다 편하게 만드세요.
"'안전을 위해, 배터리 교체하기 전 배터리를 25% 이하로 방전 세요.'" 이는 수리 중 실수로 배터리를 손상할 경우 생길 수 있는 위험한 발열 위험을 줄입니다.
만약 배터리가 부풀었다면, 적절한 조치를 취하세요 그리고, 휴대폰에 열을 가하지 마세요.
필요한 것
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수리를 시작하기 전 핸드폰을 완전히 꺼 주세요.
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iOpener를 준비하여 휴대폰 후면 오른쪽 가장자리 를 약 2분간 가열하세요. 이 과정은 후면 커버를 고정하는 접착제를 부드럽게 해줍니다.
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다음 단계에서는 뒷면 커버를 고정하는 접착제를 자릅니다.
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휴대폰 외부에서 볼 때, 강조 표시된 부분의 접착제를 잘라내야 합니다.
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가장 얇은 접착제는 흎대폰의 오른쪽, Bixby/빅스비 버튼 바로 밑에 있습니다.
My S10e was two years old so the adhesive was really weak, and it was really simple to open. Still, this guide was totally useful.
That's encouraging, hopefully the older-than-2 years S10e I'm looking to do proves as easy to open-
Gee Foe -
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후면 커버에 흡착컵을, 가능한 한 가열한 가장자리, 접착제가 가장 얇은 Bixby/빅스비 버튼 바로 밑에 고정하세요.
La ventouse n'adhérera pas correctement sur la partie incurvée de la vitre ,
Sur la partie incurvée de la coque.
It is 2024 and I had a difficult time with creating the initial gap. I applies the heat tube for a little longer and that worked. The back of the phone basically came entirely off after the initial opening
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휴대폰의 가열된 가장자리를 약 0.5 인치 (13mm) 두께의 물체 위에 올려놓으세요. 이렇게 하면 휴대폰의 각도가 조정되어 여는 도구를 수월하게 끼울 수 있습니다.
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흡착 컵으로 뒷면 커버의 오른쪽 가장자리를 들어 올려 뒷면 커버와 프레임 사이에 약간의 틈을 벌리세요.
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이 작업은 상당한 힘을 요구합니다. 만약 틈을 벌리기 어렵다면, 접착제를 부드럽게 하기 위해 열을 더 가하고, 다시 해보세요. 접착제는 상당히 빠른 속도로 식습니다. 따라서 당신은 열을 반복해서 가해야 할 수 있습니다.
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틈에 여는 도구를 끼우세요.
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휴대폰의 오른쪽 가장자리를 따라 여는 도구를 밀어서 뒷면 커버를 고정하는 접착제를 잘라냅니다.
I found that using opening picks for the entire repair was much easier then the pry tool, but that could just be me
Jake Simek - 답글
You are criminals! This "tutorial" is full of destructive instructions. And whenever trying to make a comment, iFixid admin hides behind the bot personality telling: "Your comment was marked as spam"
People, do not trust them! They tell you everything to break your phone so you will need to bring it to service!You are criminals! No one ever should use the triangular "mediator" pick for iPhones, or planar connector picks! The back cover is NOT gorilla-glass, and it will crack in multiple places immediately! Only very thin "watchmaker" opening plates(initial pickup) and 0.1mm rigid PP stripes (cut from cheap tool packages, or 7-eleven food packs) may be used there. Before that the side rim - not the cover itself should be heated to boiling point and constantly re-heated while tearing the two-sided scotch. The opening strip may be replaced 2-3 times while reaching the opposite side, because it collects the torn glue. This instruction from iFixit is a pure sabotage for tricking non-expecting users to repair-shops.
The same goes to battery, if you don't risk using solvents, which may damage the screen and the circuit. Only rounded PP strips may tear off the battery scotch. It should be preheated from the screen side, until the battery becomes hot.The commenter who keeps saying "you are criminals" over and over may have been using this guide to repair a different phone, so he or she is confused. On the Galaxy S10e, I had no trouble heating and lifting the cover as described (though I had to reheat the iOpener several times). If you heat it gently with the iOpener and long enough, you're not stressing the back cover because the glue will come loose almost immediately. (I could have almost lifted it with a fingernail).
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가열한 iOpener를 휴대폰 왼쪽 가장자리에 2분간 대세요.
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여는 피크를 사용하여 뒷면 커버를 아주 조심히 들어 올리세요.
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저항이 느껴지면 들어내기를 멈추고 여는 피크를 사용하여 남은 접착제를 잘라내세요.
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후면 커버를 분리하세요.
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This should be the very last step in the guide, but the edit button seems to only allow editing the content, not the positioning in the guide. Not sure how to fix this.
The photo seems to show someone lifting the old glue off with tweezers. That certainly wasn't true for my glue! I scrubbed it off with isopropyl alcohol and fabric. (Don't use a paper towel or Kleenex because they fall apart. I used a postage-stamp-size square cut from an old athletic sock. With this and the alcohol I was able to get the cover and the phone as clean as they were at the factory.
When doing this, hold the phone at an angle in your other hand so any alcohol dribble to the outside and not to anywhere important.
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상단 미드 프레임을 휴대폰에 고정하는 3.9mm 십자 나사 8개를 풀어주세요.
Again, criminal lies! These screws have different length! Take notes which are where! There are at least 4 versions of antenna/coil modules, so each time it may be a little different.
Interesting observation! I did not see this comment until after I reassembled the midframe and closed everything, so I can not confirm. If true, I either got lucky or it didn't matter.
WL1 -
I'll note this and see about maintaining the same order for reinstallation -
Gee Foe -
The screws on my SM-G970F/DS were all identical.
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상단 미드 프레임의 플라스틱 부분 오른쪽 가장자리, Bixby/빅스비 버튼 근처에 있는 작은 구멍에 스퍼저의 끝 부분을 끼우세요.
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스퍼저의 끝 부분을 사용하여 휴대폰 섀시에서 미드 프레임을 들어 올리세요.
Criminals! These instructions are given for breaking your phone! Never use the puncher-picker! The antenna module, after gently unglued in the single spot, is pulled down! Not up! DOWN, I said! And it comes off without any force. Minimal force will be required to push it back (after putting it flat on place).
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미드 프레임의 플라스틱 부분을 들어 올려 휴대폰에서 분리하세요.
In my phone there was a lot of residual adhesive on the top section, so I initially just flapped it over like a hinge while I finished the other steps. For me, I found, and it should be emphasized, for the reinstall, the top edge needs to be placed flat and snapped UP into the chassis for it to fit.
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스퍼저의 납작한 끝을 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 소켓에서 똑바로 들어올려 분리합니다.
This manual is a pure SABOTAGE! Never pick up the connector from the camera side! You risk damaging the camera, and the connector itself. Pick it up gently in two steps from left first, then from right, if it does not jump up immediately.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:iFixit Adhesive Remover$19.99
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접착제 제거제가 배터리 아래쪽에서 위쪽으로 흐르도록 휴대폰의 아래쪽 가장자리를 세워서 휴대폰의 각도를 조절하세요.
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배터리 하단 가장자리를 따라 이소프로필 알코올 또는 접착제 제거제를 바르세요. 접착제가 약해질 때까지 몇 분간 배터리를 그대로 두세요.
Advice: DO NOT USE TO MUCH ISOPROPANOL! This will damage your display and you will most likely have to replace it. If you know that you won't use this battery anymore just lever it out of the case. It is fairly easy to do with the ifixit Jimmy ( Item # IF145-259-1 ) or the metal spudger. Use these tools with much sensitivity as you could damage the battery case or the display that is right below the battery ( See Step 22 for additional pictures where the frame ends and the screen begins ). Good Luck!
Very valuble tip, thank you! I was going to douse it with probably way more than needed.
I started just with some moderate force jimmying it with the black plastic spudger. I then applied just a few drops of isopranol 90% and the bottom section loosened very easily.
WL1 -
I found the black levering tool did not provide enough force and damaged the tool. I found the blue picks gave me wider and safer leverage to get the battery out.
Also a couple of passes with isopropanol was required before I could make any progress. Note that while you are prying from the bottom, I applied the isoproponal all around the battery as the glue is located all the way around.
ervan.hady - 답글
better to use a length of fishing line or dental floss and slide it under the battery .. very smooth
Good tip! I put a bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol on the floss as well. Took a bit of finagling with the pointy end of the spudger to get it around the bottom end of the battery (opposite end of the battery connector), but the floss combined with the 99% IPA worked very well with ungluing the battery.
Defi -
Do not use alcohol or other liquids! This way I completely ruined my phone. The screen doesn't work. The motherboard is damaged.
I have used iOpener on screen and it allowed to remove battery without damage to phone. Just heat the iOpener, place it on screen on side where the battery is, and leave it for a few minutes. Check with blue pick on bottom side if battery budges, if not repeat everything. I needed around 4 times to finally take out the battery.
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스퍼저의 납작한 끝을 사용하여 휴대폰에서 배터리를 조심 들어 올리세요.
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저항이 심하거나 배터리가 변형되기 시작하면 마지막 단계를 반복하여 접착제를 더 녹이세요.
That spot at the bottom was the only point with enough clearance for me to start prying, and just allowing it to slowly start separating got the battery out. A very slow process as I was seeing the adhesive come off in a continuous strip, so I did it slowly enough for it to remain intact for reuse, which I did.
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배터리를 분리하세요.
Some final tips for anyone else about to attempt this:
It was unclear just how much of the residual adhesive to remove from both the back plate and the phone frame. Would leaving just a little affect the seal? I eventually realized (probably later than most) the back plate adhesive is a large cutout sticker, exactly the same as the ifixit provided one. If you can pull up a small edge and have access to some small clamping forceps (hemostat for medical folks), you can use this to slowly peel off the sticker all the way around. There are 2 small 'islands' of adhesive you will need to peel off separately. Removing all of this from the backplate is definitely needed, otherwise attaching a sticker of adhesive onto the old one will be too thick.
For the phone frame, I used the spudger to push around some adhesive but didn't worry too much about it. It is harder to aggressively work on this side as all the adjacent electronics are sensitive.
Con't:
When placing the ifixit backplate adhesive, you must be VERY precise when setting down your first edge. The backplate has some curvature, and you want the edge of the first edge to be JUST inside that curve. Then slowly press down the sticker until the other long end seats down. You want to make sure you push from the middle to the other edge, so that it will align on that curvature instead of just straight down.
The instructions are correct--you really only get 1 chance to place it. You can game this, though, by only gently pressing on the thin strips at first. If you push on the top end near the camera, any large surface area adhesive will stick down and you will not be unsticking it!
Con't:
For the battery adhesive and replacement:
It was unclear just how tightly the battery needed to be re-adhered. Is it really going to shake around that much? But I figured we don't want anything jostling or pulling on the thin battery connector cable.
I used a spudger to VERY gently work the old adhesive off all 4 sides. It looks like there are wires/trace running through the underlying foil-like surface, so you probably do not want to damage that in any way. Also the screen is right underneath that!
I cut 2 strips only of the included tesla tape and stuck that on the 2 long sides. I did not expose the battery side tape yet.
VERY IMPORTANT: Put the battery in and connect the wire. The ifixit battery is smaller than the OEM, so there is a lot of possible movement. The wire also wasn't exactly perpendicular. In fact, it took some finagling to get the wire to actually connect. I found that in my case, the battery was seated right at the bottom/base of the compartment for the wire to sit properly.
One more thing:
Water resistance testing
There is an app that may be a safe way to see if your reassembly is good enough to quality for water resistance: https://play.google.com/store/apps/detai...
Basically it uses the barometer in the phone to determine this. If your phone is a closed system, pressing on the screen should cause the pressure to increase from baseline, as there are no gaps for air to leave.
If your phone is an open system with a leak, pressure on the screen will be released through the leak in the phone's side, meaning water could easily enter from that same spot. The air pressure will not change with a leak.
This app was in fact the way I discovered my adhesive was splitting. I ran it for fun before going to the beach, where to my surprise it showed a failure. Previously it did not! I have no financial interest in this app, I just like it and I purchased the add-on which is not necessary for the app to function. I use it to test any refurb.
Very helpful pointer to that water resistance test app, I actually just reused all the original stickem of the back cover and the battery, because I went the lowest cost option of just buying a new old stock battery from eBay for $11, which came with nothing in the way of replacement adhesive.
The water resistance test showed a failure, which passed before the replacement, so it does give a good indication of air tightness.
I then used Kapton tape to seal around the whole perimeter, and now the test passes again. It doesn't look elegant in the least, but I prefer being able to change the battery quickly and easily if the need should ever come up again.
Testing with Accurately showed an increase in health percentage from 71 to 86 percent, which rolled the clock back by two years based on the prior history, which I'm satisfied with.
Gee Foe -
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기기를 재조립하려면 이 지침을 역순으로 따라하세요.
최적의 성능을 위해 이 안내서를 완료한 후 새로 설치한 배터리를 보정하하세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 전자 스튜어드 인증 재활용업체로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 되지 않나요? 자사의 답변 커뮤니티에서 문제 해결을 도움을 확인하세요.
기기를 재조립하려면 이 지침을 역순으로 따라하세요.
최적의 성능을 위해 이 안내서를 완료한 후 새로 설치한 배터리를 보정하하세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 전자 스튜어드 인증 재활용업체로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 되지 않나요? 자사의 답변 커뮤니티에서 문제 해결을 도움을 확인하세요.
다른 52명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
57%
이 번역인들은 저희가 세상을 수리하는 데 도움을 주고 있어요! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 14개
I was going to publish this guide but somebody did it already for me. Thanks!
By the way the color of that phone in the guide is hideous in my opinion.
When you say “moderate” difficulty, how what’s making it difficult or where is the risk coming from? With the right tools, patience, and even a small bit of experience replacing a screen in an admittedly easy Nokia Lumia phone, what could go wrong, and what would you recommend?
Hi Mark, the hardest part of this guide is dealing with all the adhesive without damaging anything. The back cover and the battery are both heavily glued down. To get the back cover off without cracking it, I’d recommend plenty of heat and very patient and gentle prying. If the prying gets really tough, try heating the back a little more. Removing the battery can be tough as well, but using adhesive remover helps a lot. Follow the steps in the guide and make sure you give the adhesive remover a few minutes to soak in. If prying gets difficult, add a little more adhesive remover and wait a couple minutes before continuing. Hope that helps!
If I buy the kit from ifixit, are the battery going to be relatively new? or the batteries have been seating in shelves since OEM days.
Yes, I bought a kit about a month ago and the manufacting date of the s10e replacement battery was 28 August 2022.
For future reference, I purchased mine in late 7/2023 and the date stamped on the battery was 5/19/23.
WL1 -
The OEM replacement I got from eBay, admittedly cheap at $11, actually had a manufacture date a month before the one I took out, but maybe less cycle time on it, so I'll see how it performs. It measured 4.16V out of the box, so I don't know if the seller charged it up before shipping it out or if it could actually retain full charge for that long.
Gee Foe -
Hello. After 3+ years of using S10e, I would like to replace the battery. I live in Europe and the battery replacement kit is not available on the EU store website. I cannot order the kit from the States because of shipping restrictions.
Can you please tell me where can I buy the replacement kit for my device? Is it possible to order one to EU store somehow?
And why is one not available in the EU store? I'm not being entitled, just puzzled and curious.. I see kits for devices older than mine so I can only guess.
I also have this phone for 3+ years. Battery is overheating a lot, especially with high screen brightness in summer, and does not last so much anymore. I am also looking into ordering a new battery, back cover, and repair kit for my Samsung S10e in Europe (Belgium).
where I could buy samsung galaxy s10e battery?
Just finished battery replacement, worst part was taking out the battery. What helped me was putting iOpener on screen and checking every few minutes on battery if it will give up.
Also, battery from iFixit is not as good as I would think. Connector has a slight difference with original. Barely visible difference, yet plugging it was a challenge. I have brut forced it a little, but in the end it sits. But then another issue - cable is a little too long, which means that instead of lying flat, it bends a little. I had to squash it, I hope it will be fine for a time being. I am writing all this here because for some I can't give battery a review.
Cool from iFixit to provide fundamentals, but there are some details which unfortunately lay flat.
The hardest part was removing all the adhesive. I recommend having extra 90% isopropyl wipes
Update: I forgot to screw it back together since I got caught up in applying the adhesive. I will update if something negative happens but im sending it for now
L'écran OLED et la la batterie
Isidore LECHAT - 답글
My s10e is 4 years old now and I found glue had weakend and heating was uneccissary.
ervan.hady - 답글
I purchased my S10e refurbished, so the exact age and prior repairs are unknown. I believe it had ~200 charge cycles. After 2.5 years, the side adhesive started to fail and there was a noticeable slit under the rear cover. It was unclear if the lithium battery was starting to swell, which would have been a more dangerous thing. As such, 3 out of the 4 sides were easy to open just with sliding the pick.
I heated the iOpeners for 30s in my 1000W microwave and it reached a temp of 180oF. I placed this on the final corner and it released fairly easily.
WL1 - 답글
Is 180 degrees a good temperature to set the air temperature to if a heat gun is used?
Gee Foe -
Mine released without heat, just caught the edge with a fingernail and was able to work it free without any tools.
Gee Foe - 답글
I would definitely NOT use a heat gun; the iOpener is the right thing to use. I've repaired many devices and I have lots of heat guns, but a heat gun puts out a tremendous amount of heat, and spreads it everywhere instead of in a controlled manner. The iOpener is about 150 F -- just getting uncomfortable to touch -- and the heat is all in a thin strip. You want to gently heat the edges of the cover, not cook the battery and electronics. Smart phones are expensive and the iFixit tools are cheap. Don't risk your phone to save a few bucks.
MikeT-NYC - 답글