소개
이 안내서를 사용하여 트랙패드를 교체하세요. 이 절차는 접착제 제거제를 사용하여 배터리를 분리하는 과정을 포함합니다. 배터리를 분리한 후에는 재사용하지 마세요. 잠재적인 안전 위험이 있습니다. 새 배터리로 교체하세요.
iFixit 접착제 제거제는 가연성이 높습니다. 환기가 잘되는 곳에서 이 절차를 수행하세요. 이 절차를 수행할 떄는 담배를 피우거나 화기 근처에서 작업하지 마세요.
손상 위험을 최소화하려면 이 절차를 시작하기 전에 MacBook을 켜고 배터리를 완전히 방전하세요. 충전된 리튬 이온 배터리는 실수로 구멍이 뚫리면 위험하고 통제할 수 없는 화재를 일으킬 수 있습니다. 배터리가 부풀어 오른 경우 추가 예방 조치를 취하세요.
필요한 것
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하단 케이스를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사 열 개를 풀어주세요:
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2.3mm P5 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 두 개
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3.0mm P5 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 여덟 개
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배터리 접촉 보드에 붙어있는 플라스틱 커버를 분리하세요.
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핀셋을 사용하여 배터리 커넥터 보드의 오른쪽 하단 근처의 작은 플라스틱 덮개를 분리하세요.
when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).
i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?
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핀셋으로 인터포저를 잡으세요.
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인터포저를 로직 보드에서 들어 올려 분리하세요.
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.
Second that. If you have thin heat shrink tubing, form some over the tweezer tips. If the tubing is thin and small enough in diameter you’ll see the serrations of the tweezer tips.
wat is the model this SSD
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Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 I/O 보드 데이터 케이블 커넥터의 오른편을 I/O 보드 소켓에서 들어올리세요.
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I/O 보드 데이터 케이블 커넥터 왼편 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 쐐기로 고정하세요.
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Spudger/스퍼저를 살짝 비틀어 로직 보드 소켓에서 I/O 보드 데이터 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.
I also skipped this step as this data cable is not compromising the exchange of battery and less interaction with connectors is less risk of damage..
Diesen Schritt habe ich ebenfalls weggelassen, da das Datenkabel den Austausch der Batterie nicht behindert und weniger Manipulationen an Steckverbindern bedeutet ein geringeres Risiko für Beschädigungen
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Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드 소켓에서 SSD 케이블 커넥터를 들어 올리세요.
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SSD 케이블 커넥터를 치우세요.
As per my comment on step 10, this is also not required. When you remove the SSD in step 22, you can just fold it over out of the way.
This step is easy enough that I’d just remove it to be out of the way. I 100% agree with your other comments though. While you’re here, might as well do step 21 and remove the drive, just takes a sec.
I also strongly recommend not to unmount the speaker plugs, just flip them out of the way, same as with the SSD drive. Makes it much less complicated and less risky. It worked perfect for me.
Ich empfehle ebenfalls, die Platinenstecker der Lautsprecher nicht zu lösen sondern die Lautsprecher einfach, so wie das SSD-Laufwerk, einfach aus dem Weg zu legen. Das macht die Sache weniger kompliziert und weniger risikoreich. Es hat bei mir super funktioniert!
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오른편 스피커 케이블 커넥터 아래에 spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 쐐기로 고정하세요.
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로직 보드 소켓에서 오른편 스피커 케이블 커넥터를 살살 들어 올리세요.
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T5 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 오른편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:
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검정색 6.8mm 나사 한 개
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은색 6.3mm 나사 한 개
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검정색 4.9mm 나사 한 개
If you manage to misplace any screws, particularly one of the speaker retaining screws, look under the speakers - they are magnetic and great at hiding missing screws :)
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상단 케이스에서 오른편 스피커를 들어 올려 분리하세요.
For those who don’t realize it, the speakers you are removing really are the plastic corner pieces that look like they’re just there to fill the space.
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Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드 소켓에서 드폰 잭 케이블을 똑바로 들어 올리세요.
For an easier, lower-risk repair, skip this step and step 18 - go straight to step 19 and fold the speaker out of the way.
Agreed, this is the way
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왼편 스피커 케이블 커넥터 아래에 spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 쐐기로 고정하세요.
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로직 보드 소켓에서 왼편 스피커 케이블 커넥터를 살살 들어 올리세요.
It's easier to follow Step 19 & 20 first and then come to Step 18 (this step). Doing so will make it easier to remove that speaker connector easily holding the cable of speaker without having to use a pry tool.
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T5 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 왼편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:
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검정색 6.8mm 나사 한 개
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은색 6.3mm 나사 한 개
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검정색 4.9mm 나사 한 개
Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!
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엄지 또는 손가락을 사용하여 SSD 트레이의 플라스틱 스프링 바를 구부려 기기 전면의 클립 두 개를 해제하세요.
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스프링 바를 누르며 SSD 어셈블리를 기울여 공간에서 꺼내세요.
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배터리의 각 측면에서 2.2mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 세 개를 풀어주세요 (나사 총 여섯 개).
If I were to do this again, I think I would leave unbolting the transverse battery until after ungluing the other four. That way one can tip the laptop on to one of its short sides and so run adhesive remover along the long edge of each battery and let gravity assist penetration without the transverse battery falling out.
I think this is good advice.
I just did one of these that didn’t have these screws installed from the factory. Odd
maccentric - 답글
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디스플레이를 보호하려면 디스플레이와 키보드 사이에 알루미늄 호일 한 장을 작업하는 동안 놓아두세요.
You can use a heat gun to remove the adhesive. Remember you can always add more heat so don’t over do it. I put my heat gun on high for less than 10 seconds at a time
Using a heat gun on a lithium-ion battery is not a good idea. You can get away with it if you are careful, but a solvent is much safer. ;)
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접착제 제거제 병에서 검정색 고무 마개를 당겨 빼세요.
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가위를 사용하여 봉인된 어플리케이터 끝을 자르세요.
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가장 왼편 배터리 셀 가장자리 아래에 접착제 제거제 몇 방울을 골고루 바르세요.
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다음 단계로 진행하기 전에 액상 접착제 제거제가 배터리 셀 밑으로 침투할 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요.
If you use a heat gun be sure to point the heat gun away from the motherboard. After heating for 10 seconds or less use the blunt end of the metal pry tool as you don’t want to puncture the battery. You don’t need much force as after you have enough heat you will hear it unsticking when you pry at it lightly with the BLUNT end of the metal pry tool. Repeat this step on the other side. You don’t need to heat the cells near the motherboard as they are secured with small screws
I replace a lot of glued in Macbook batteries and you really do not need ISO to get them out. These wide blade plastic spudgers are brilliant and cheap. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824615... Image here https://imgur.com/a/0Y0Yvyj
May not need it to remove the battery, but it sure helps for removing the leftover residue and black VHB that’s left behind. I found that dousing the VHB and using a metal flat spatula helped.
Some good advice:
Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…
Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.
Goo Gone, applied with a pipette, is a non-flammable alternative solution for releasing the adhesive that won’t harm plastics if it seeps past the battery cavities. It does take a bit longer, 30-45 mins, but is much safer. An additional benefit is that the adhesive will be completely separated from the top-case, so cleanup is super quick.
Hi John,
We don’t recommend using Goo Gone because it’s a petroleum distillate based remover, which leaves an oily residue. The residue can prevent replacement adhesive from fully bonding with the surface. Be sure to clean any Goo Gone surface with a detergent-based cleaner.
Isopropyl alcohol and iFixit’s adhesive remover are formulated to evaporate quickly and leave little residue, which allows replacement adhesive to bond properly to the surface.
Note, per my later cleanup, I found that 2-3 drops may not be enough, or else, 2-3 minutes is too long to wait before trying to pry. Once the remover starts to dry, it is not as easy to work the adhesive. I ended up using maybe 1/10 of the bottle overall and most of that was liberally dousing the residue a few times to fully clean the case.
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Spudger/스퍼저 또는 플라스틱 카드의 평평한 가장자리를 제일 왼편의 배터리 셀 밑으로 넣으세요.
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귀하의 도구를 배터리 셀 하단 둘레를 따라서 움직이고 들어 올려 접착제를 분리하세요.
This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.
I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.
we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)
Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.
This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.
by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.
Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.
I second this, I also used an old credit card and it totally worked! I did not use any heat or liquid
Some good advice:
Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…
Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.
My MBP identifies as late 2012/early 2013, and don’t know where you come up with a separate identity.
Looking at both disassembly procedures, neither shows the aftermarket (probably NewerTech or OWC) battery I found in this MBP.
That’s disconcerting; finds one asking myself - “Am I using the right procedure??”
if you know this might be the case, please add note to this step if the user finds only 4 physical cased batteries.
Tnx!
Use the plastic credit-card shaped card.
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자리를 바꿔서 MacBook Pro 오른편에 위치한 배터리 셀 두 개에 위의 절차를 반복하세요.
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각 배터리 셀 아래에 소량의 액상 접착제 제거제를 적용하고 셀을 들어 올리기 전에 접착제 제거제가 침투할 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요.
Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.
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상단 케이스에서 배터리 전체를 들어 올리고 배터리를 분리하세요.
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운이 좋으면 손가락으로 접착제 조각을 천천히 당겨 빼낼 수 있습니다.
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그렇지 않으면 각 접착 부분을 약간의 접착제 제거제로 2-3분 동안 적신 다음 여는 픽 또는 키트의 다른 도구 중 하나로 긁어내야 합니다. 이는 꽤 많은 노력이 필요로 합니다. 인내심을 가지세요.
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남아있는 모든 접착제 제거제를 닦아내고 MacBook Pro를 자연 건조할 때까지 몇 분 정도 기다리세요.
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새로 설치한 배터리를 보정하세요: 배터리를 100% 충전한 다음 최소 두 시간 더 충전하세요. 그런 다음 플러그는 뽑고 정상적으로 사용하여 배터리를 방전하세요. 배터리 부족 경고가 나타나면 작업을 저장하고 배터리 부족으로 인해 절전 모드가 활성화될 때까지 노트북을 켜놓으세요. 최소한 5시간 이상을 기다리고 나서 노트북을 중단없이 100% 충전하세요.
During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!
I second Fred’s suggestion. I had to “smoosh” the right speaker in since my battery replacement was a little bit too far over. It was fine, but the “heads up” note is warranted.
If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?
Yes!! If uppercase Assembly(Includes Trackpad, keyboard, Palmrest & BATTERY) is being replaced, there is no need to remove battery from old uppercase assembly.
When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.
Hi all,
After installing the new batteries, my mac is not powering up… Do i need to charge the battery first and then check again? Have anyone faced similar issue before?
My 1st battery from ifixit came out to be defective and it caused fire at the centre of the long battery. I have got a replacement for the defective piece which i have installed now. However, now i am worried that connecting to power could lead to any potential fire / harm to my mac???
Already i have spent lot of time in this and it would be very upsetting if this battery spoils my mac!!!
Any suggestion people???? thanks in advance!
BR,
Vijay
Hi Vijay!
Uh-oh, we’re sorry to hear about the battery trouble!
Our batteries come with a 1-year warranty, so this would definitely be something we can assist with. Please feel welcome to reach out via help.ifixit.com and provide our Support team with your order number so that they can look into these battery troubles with you.
Thanks!
Hi All,
Just replaced battery, and am typing this on the live MacBook. The unit fired up as soon as I plugged in the power adapter. Nice. The battery percentage indicator said the battery had approximately 85% power charge. Is this normal? If not, what steps should I take to ensure that this battery is properly calibrated?
Cheers,
James
Hi James,
Follow these steps to calibrate your new battery: https://help.ifixit.com/article/265-batt...
ご指摘ありがとうございました！訂正済みです。
Can someone tell me which model is written in the battery? I saw that is written the model a1437. Is this model compatible with the a1425? Thanks
Hi Mizuno,
The battery model is A1437, and it is compatible with the MacBook Pro model A1425.
These instructions are brilliantly concise! Thank you. And thank you everyone for your comments. As a final comment from me, it is much easier to assess the final position of the batteries if you place them gently in position, reinstall the speakers, adjust the battery position if needed and then press them firmly into place.
I did everything in the kit, but my computer won’t acknowledge the battery and is only running on my power adapter. Once I take off the power adapter it shuts down. I also tried resetting the snc, but unsure if it did anything. I reopened up the back to see if I missed anything. The batteries are warm, which means they were running. I’m very confused, anybody else run into similar issues?
My OEM adhesive was particularly persnickety and did not want to come up. I found a pick to be more useful than the flat spudger or the card. I also used several applications of remover and found that working with it wet was much more effective than letting it dry to dissolve the glue. A final few wipes with more remover and the cloth wipe that came with the kit did a good cleanup job.
So I just replaced the battery and reassembled everything and when plugging it into the power supply, the LED is not lighting up and computer is not turning on. Not sure what I did incorrectly as I basically followed the steps in reverse for reassembly after installing the battery. Any advice would be appreciated.
Bibihabibi - 답글
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스퍼저의 납작한 끝을 사용하여 트랙패드 리본 케이블 ZIF 소켓의 고정 플랩을 위로 젖히세요.
It looks like you could skip the entire battery removal procedure if you simply left the trackpad cable in place, disconnected it at the trackpad end, and used the old cable on the new trackpad?
You could try it, but there’s very little slack in that cable. I think you’ll have a hard time disconnecting the trackpad without straining or tearing the cable.
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기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침을 역순으로 따르세요.
기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침을 역순으로 따르세요.
다른 29명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
100%
Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 8개
This can be done without removing the battery. The touchpad ribbon cable can be disconnected on the logic board, then snaked (gently!!) back out its channel with the battery in place.
It won't thread back through when replacing the touchpad though - it's not stiff enough. Instead, cut a strip of material from a manila folder and thread that through the channel under the battery. Then use masking tape to attach the touchpad cable to the manila strip and pull the strip out towards the logic board. The touchpad ribbon threads through the channel and the masking tape can be removed once it's in place.
Only the battery connector, SSD cable, and SSD carrier need removed.
Steps 24-34 are UNNECESSARY for this repair! Removing the adhesive portion of the battery is not required to remove the trackpad. Just lift up the top part of the battery that is screwed in and unplug the trackpad cable.
bizwfshane - 답글
I agree with sinwillet’s comments above; I repacked the battery and trackpad and did not remove the speakers entirely or the I/O board data cable
Note that the replacement trackpad may not have the ribbon cable or it may be the wrong length. Ok because you can reuse the ribbon cable on the original trackpad, as Philippe suggested above.
How do you adjust the trackpad sensitivity? EG>.. the silver screw at the bottom?
You just need the proper driver bit (I believe it is a Torx 5/T5 ?) first, follow steps 1-4 to remove the bottom cover, then the set screw is at the lower portion of the unibody frame smack dab in the bottom middle of the trackpad edge. To “tighten” the click (if click is not occurring or too “loose”), turn the set screw 1/8th turn in a clockwise direction. Then test the click t see if it improves, if not go 1/8th turn at a time. If you turn it too much or turn counter-clockwise too much it will release from its mount hole and they are REALLY annoying to try to re-thread.
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - 답글
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - 답글
It would be a good idea if people recorded in the comments which screws go where so that, if someone lost their screw positions, they could recover them from the comments.
Raymond Shpeley - 답글