Nintendo 3DS XL (2015) 하단 LCD와 터치스크린 교체
이 안내서는 하단 LCD와 터치스크린 디지타이저를 교체하는 방법을 소개합니다.
필요한 것
부품
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JIS #0 드라이버를 사용하여, 뒷면에 있는 검은색 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
My experience indicates that a JIS #1 is more appropriate here.
Same here, much more appropriate.
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나사가 풀렸으면, 뒷 커버를 들어 올려 여세요.
In order to remove the back cover, slide it down towards you and then pry the cover off.
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배터리는 3DS의 왼쪽에 있습니다. 분리하기 위해선 상단 중앙에 있는 작은 틈으로 금속이 아닌 끝이 뾰족한 도구를 사용해 위로 당겨주세요.
Also you should remove any SD card at this point
Does this battery work on a NEW 3DS XL model?
This guide is for the New 3DS XL, which is called the 2015 3DS XL here on iFixit. If you're asking about the 3DS replacement battery advertised in the iFixit store, I believe it works for both new and old models.
The battery is the same and will work on both the new and old models
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JIS #00 드라이버를 사용해 보조 커버의 가장자리에 있는 6mm 나사 6개를 풀어주세요.
I used a #00 instead it works better for a model form 2016
remove the micro Sd card or the shell wont come off and damage the Sd card reader and the connecter
If the J screws are not working, 1.3mm flathead worked for me.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Tweezers$4.99
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핀셋을 사용하여, 3DS의 상단에 있는 고무 범퍼를 조심히 꺼내세요. 범퍼들을 분리하면 6mm 나사 두 개가 더 나올 것입니다. 이 나사들도 JIS #000 드라이버를 사용해 풀어주세요.
Can the rubber bumpers be replaced once you reassemble the 3DS? I'd really hate to have to take them out and never be able to put them back in, if I'm honest...
Yep, we were able to put them back in quite easily after repeated teardowns! If they ever refused to stay in for some reason, you could always put a little bit of something sticky on them. (I use scrapbooking tape on my laptop's bumpers.)
What happens if I strip one of these screws? How hard would into be to remove them?
very hard. i stripped 4 screws on my new 3ds xl and i haven’t been able to get them out. i even bought the precision screw extrator set and nothing the set sucked.
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커버를 분리하기 위해선 (헤드폰 포트를 비우기 위해) 커버를 조심스레 들어올려 힌지에서 분리한 다음, 힌지 방향으로 돌려 회로 보드를 드러내세요.
I accidentally opened it and broke the ribbon cable to the r and zr buttons by accident. How do I fix it?
You have to replace the whole thing.
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핀셋를 사용해 메인보드에 L/R/ZL/ZR 버튼 리본 케이블을 고정하는 두 개의 플러그를 들어 올리세요. 이제 뒷 커버를 완전히 분리하여 따로 보관하세요.
I discovered that there is enough clearance to slide the Game Cartridge Slot assembly out without removing the motherboard. Just remove the two connectors going to the Cartridge Slot assembly and take out the 3 screws holding it down. There were two screws that look like they are holding the assembly down, but they are only holes through the assembly and don’t actually hold it down. At least on the Pokemon version, New 3DS XL that I had.
Can confirm, it's leagues easier to do it that way than to go to the trouble of removing the entire motherboard, potentially screwing something up in the process. Thank you so much for sharing this alternative method!
I third this alternative method for D-pad replacement. To add to the previously noted detail, you also need to disconnect a 3rd connector going to the Cartridge Slot assembly, the one going to the D-pad Board itself which is underneath the Cartridge Slot assembly, which is shown at a later step in this guide. Also, I found I needed to loosen the two screws on the motherboard located nearest the Cartridge Slot assembly in order to get enough clearance to slide the assembly out, as there are two plastic guide stands that hold the assembly in place which the motherboard otherwise holds too tightly to pass. Otherwise, incredibly smooth sailing, minimal connectors removed, and my New 3DS LL import model finally has a working left/right again. Thanks everyone!
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핀셋을 사용하여 경첩이 달린 작은 잠금 플랩을 위로 올려 슬라이드 패드 리본을 고정하고 있는 ZIF 커넥터를 잠금 해제하세요.
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리본 케이블을 ZIF 커넥터에서 밀어 꺼내세요.
Is not the right side, the switch must be pull to the left, otherwise people will brake it.
DartzSoryu - 답글
I suggest removing the joystick first, swing to left side, then lift up on ZIF connector from the right. You’re able to pull ribbon cable out easier from the left at that point w/o breaking it, as I did.
2nd the removing of the joystick first via the two screws and to be careful handling the plastic washer underneath. It’s coated with a Teflon type material to aid in stick movement. also use a finger nail over tweezers any change you get. A nail is less rigid with natural give and less likely to break plastic latches. If it doesn’t open from the end you expect, stop, and try the other side right away. Be gently.
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메인보드 왼쪽 상단에서 빨간색 케이블이 있는 금색 단자 플러그를 찾으세요. 손가락을 사용하여 플러그를 조심스럽게 위로 당겨 분리하세요.
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핀셋을 사용하여 단일 리본 커넥터를 연결 해제하세요.
MDR j'avais vu cette erreur il y a un petit moment... et vous pouvez ajouter, ne pas casser le connecteur comme sur la photo !
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핀셋을 사용하여 메인보드 측면을 따라 빨간색으로 표시된 리본 케이블 네 개를 살살 잡아당겨 빼내세요.
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리본 커넥터 중 3개에는 미끄러짐을 방지하는 플라스틱 클램핑 플랩이 있습니다. 리본을 분리하기 전에 핀셋을 사용하여 뒤집어주세요.
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이 리본 커넥터 하나에도 플라스틱 클램핑 플랩이 있을 수 있지만 다른 커넥터와 달리, 슬라이드 패드에 사용된 것과 비슷합니다. 리본 케이블 반대쪽에 있는 플랩을 살짝 위로 젖혀 케이블을 분리하세요.
Hi,
Can you pls inform me the purpose of the topmost red marked ZIF transparent flex cable, I wish to repair my N3DS XL but I am missing this flex cable (for which part is this cable relevant).
Thanks
I don't have the model on me for reference, but if I remember correctly, it's for the bottom screen.
I think it should be noted that the upper most ZIF is incorrectly labelled here as one to remove with tweezers and not to try to open the clamp. I did this recently and have now broken my brand new 3ds. This cable is for the digitizer at the front of the bottom screen. So my touch screen no longer works. I now need to carry out a further repair. Just a heads up.
Accurate. I have to purchase a new digitizer because of this. I tore the conductors in the cable removing it from the ZIF connector. And I’m really very angry that no correction has been made in the almost 9 months since you posted.
Sabs Like Labs, can you please share a picture of your connector ? last time I dismounted one I had no problems with this connector but maby there are different versions ?
Zoe, I don’t suppose you would know what part to search for to replace one of these lock-less friction connectors? Before this article posted I partially broke one of mine thinking it had a lock and would like to replace it. The old one still works but I have to fiddle with it to get a good connection now. The one I broke is nearest to the cartridge socket.
&&^& all those tutoriel now is just break my new 3ds &&^& you internet
I broke my connectors the little gray pieces broke not the touch screen and the joy stick are broken.
I can confirm there are two different versions of the clip. One flips up and just pushes in
As others have mentioned, the topmost red connector HAS A CLAMP that you need to flip up. It seems like the creator of this guide has a 3ds with older board revision. With multiple people already having brought up the issue, the creator should absolutely update this guide to note the differences as others have already broken their devices due to this guide.
Can confirm that the top most connector has a clamp on mine as well. tore the ribbon cable taking it out and now my bottom screen touch screen is unresponsive. also if you are on this guide looking to replace the game card reader, i also found out after trying to replace mine … You DO NOT need to remove the motherboard in order to replace it !
Then digitizer absolutely should be updated to note, I also broke the GREY clamp off, when treying to remove, and bought a new one.
I believe this to be the replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQY7N9?psc...
I also ruined the digitizer connector thinking it had a lock (yes, I failed to read the guide correctly). I ordered another motherboard that cost me $100 (ifixit had none in stock, only option on ebay) only to find out it still doesn't work (now for some reason no button nor touchscreen work which doesn't even make sense since they all have different connectors). Please update this guide to point people to just remove the card reader without taking the motherboard off. I could have avoided all this by just replacing the card reader directly.
Wow...ifixit is flat out lying about that top connector. There is no such thing as 2 different board revisions. ALL models have the clamp type connector. If you zoom in you can clearly see the creator has broken off the clamp in the pictures and is misrepresenting it as a friction connector. Unbelievable.
I broke the ZIF connectors by lifting them up, now from not being able to enable wifi to completely unusable. PUT THE WARNING BEFORE THE STEP!
If anybody want an actual, clear video breakdown and reassemble, I recommend this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUTVR3Ln...
I had the digitizer problem too; forgot that that connector does have a clamp, and now my digitizer is broken because I tried to reinsert it without unlocking it. I have edited this step so it labels the connector correctly.
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마더보드를 힌지 방향으로 조심스럽게 90도 돌리면 마더보드 밑면에 ZIF 커넥터가 두 개가 더 드러납니다.
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둘 다 위로 젖혀야 하는 래치가 있습니다. 왼쪽의 긴 래치는 검은색이고, 오른쪽의 짧은 래치는 흰색입니다. 플랩을 위로 젖희고 리본을 밀어낸 다음 마더보드를 분리하세요.
9-15 aren't necessary at all. Its a super easy fix step 16 is sufficient.
I think you might be confused; this is a guide for replacing the motherboard, not the entire bottom half of the unit.
The top says this is a guide for the directional pad though
Jimmy -
Oh! Apologies; I didn't realize iFixit duplicated comments for duplicate steps. The message alert directed me to the motherboard replacement guide. Whoops.
Anyway, as I recall, the card reader was more safely and easily removed once the motherboard was out of the way. But I agree that it was likely doable without. Thank you for the input!
Getting the ribbons back in can be a challenge but don’t give up. Pull them taught and try to work at an angle that give you the most length.
Do you know the name of the shorter zif connector, or how to order it? I am talking about the one that is on the botton side of the board,that sometime it is hard to connect the ribbon cable. I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you.
What is the name or how to order the small zif connectors that is on the bottom side of the board, I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you
I just want to swap out lcd screens, what steps can I omit? this is the only bottom screen guide online and so many bricks wtf can’t someone make a video like top lcds there are many.
Update about the commentaries above :
If your goal is to replace something in the top part of the console, steps 9-15 are still necessary as all of the components up there travel through the R hinge to connect to the main board.
- Top screen and Audio/3D cable connect to the back of the motherboard shown at step 15 (screen is the left one shown on the illustration).
- Camera bar connects to the front of the motherboard (step 13, shown as the up-and-rightmost orange connector)
- Wifi antenna connects to the antenna connector (step 12), probably the easiest to replace without disconnecting the motherboard since it doesn't involve rolling up and threading a flat cable through the hinge.
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JIS #000 드라이버를 사용해 나사 3개를 풀어 주세요.
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그런 다음 카트리지 슬롯을 들어 올려 분리하세요.
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빨간색으로 표시된 부분이 NFC 안테나 지지대이며, LCD/촉각 장치에 접근하기 전에 분리해야 합니다.
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상단과 하단에 피크와 같은 얇은 도구를 사용하여 NFC 안테나의 상단과 하단 플라스틱 지지대 클립을 풀어주고 분리하세요.
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LCD/터치 스크린의 검은색 지지대와 콘솔 케이스 사이에 납작한 도구를 밀어 넣은 다음, 살살 들어 올리세요. 그런 다음, 피크를 아래로 밀어서 제자리에 고정하세요.
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그런 다음 아래에서 밀어서 어셈블리를 들어 올리거나 계속 돌면서 클립을 풀고 빼낼 수 있습니다.
C’est ça quand on fait de la technique et de la musique !! Effectivement, c’est bien un mediator !!
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기기를 다시 재조립하려면 위의 과정을 역순으로 따라주세요.
기기를 다시 재조립하려면 위의 과정을 역순으로 따라주세요.
다른 18명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
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I followed this guide to the letter last night on my hyrule gold new 3ds XL (from hence forth I will refer to this unit as my “old n3dsXL”) before attempting the same repair on my new unit. It worked fine on my old n3dsXL. So I went ahead with doing the same repair on my new unit.
Well it went fine till I tried to turn it on. The blue light comes on then after a few seconds there’s a “pop” sound and the unit turns back off. Can anyone tell me what just happened here?
Also tried putting the original touch screen back in the new unit and it still does the same pop sound and shuts off
You might need to reseat the cables i had this issue on my old ds lite and my old n3ds all i had to do was that and it fixed it for me also if that doesn’t work get a cotton swab and dip it in rubbing alcohol and clean the end of the ribbon cables then re insert them.
Same thing happened to me my first time—brief blue light but would not power on. Tore it down and re-connected all the cables more carefully the second time. That fixed it.
BBW -
I just disassembled my new 3ds xl to clean my lower screen and touch sensor following this guide, it went smoothly but now everything works except the touch sensor, why??
I have done this successfully three times now—thank you for the excellent guide. Newcomers should know there is one ERROR and one OMISSION in the procedure. (1) ERROR - In Step 13, the topmost ZIF connector marked in red *does* have a clamp, unlike the other four. If you attempt to pull the connector loose without opening the clamp you will break it—see the frustrated comments to Step 13 for examples. (2) OMISSION - At Step 16, before removing the cartridge drive you must unplug the connector at the top of the component. This is shown as unplugged in the photo, but the step is missing from the written instructions. The clamp on this plug loosens on the *opposite* side from where the cable is inserted, unlike the other clamps in the guide.
i used the guide and broke the digitizer and i didn’t have the plastic thing on my model. the galaxy style.
No you do not have to disassamble the digitizer if you only want to change the LCD.
I just want to swap out lcd screens, what steps can I omit? this is the only bottom screen guide online and so many bricks wtf can’t someone make a video like top lcds there are many.
I just need to clean around the touchscreen because all of the bottom section buttons have stopped working. I’ve gotten everything taken apart, but the instructions don’t mention a double sticky tape that is between the touchscreen and the case. In my case, the double sticky tape came up and twisted so that it is now unusable, I can’t seem to find the double sticky tape mentioned on any sites. How do, or can, I buy a replacement? Do I have to buy a completely new touchscreen just to replace the double sticky tape?
It’s the Tessa tape sold here.
