This guide shows how to replace broken trigger buttons on a Nintendo Switch Pro Controller. Broken triggers limit an optimum gaming experience with the Nintendo Switch console. Replacing a broken trigger on your controller will aid you in using your controller to its full extent. This guide requires a nearly full disassembly of the controller. Therefore, exercise caution during disassembly to ensure that you do not damage the circuitry or the ribbon connectors on the inside of the controller.
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Flip the controller over so the model stickers face the ceiling.
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Use a JIS #00 screwdriver to remove the two black 8.4 mm screws that secure the handles, located at the ends of the handles.
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Carefully remove the handle covers by pulling them away from the main body.
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Use a JIS #00 screwdriver to remove the four silver 6.8 mm screws that secure the clear back plastic cover.
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Carefully pry away the clear plastic cover using your fingernail.
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Remove the lithium-ion battery by using a fingernail or plastic opening tool to pry it up on the left side.
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Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the five 5 mm screws from the back of the controller.
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The two case screws above the handgrips and the single case screw below the battery bay have a shallow seat. These three screws can be easily removed.
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The two case screws adjacent to the ZR and ZL shoulder buttons have a deep seat. Use an extension or a Phillips screwdriver with a longer shaft to reach these screws.
Seconded. the screws are located too deep below the plastic slot, and the bit holding bulge is too wide for the small aperture (similarly with the flexible extension). the bit length is too shallow to reach.
An alternative driver with a much narrower & longer shaft is required, which will likely not come with interchangeable bits.
I would say it is possible to reach the top left screw, just not the top right - there is a gap in the top left that allows you to slightly bend the standard driver outward to turn it while still making adequate contact.
An update: I was actually able to remove the top right one in a really hacky way - inserting the Phillips #0 bit into the #4 hex bit, and then using that in the standard driver. This added just enough length to successfully reach and make full contact with the screw!
Using the #4 hex bit as an extension was the exact "hack" I needed to get rid of the drift finally. Thank you. You're a lifesaver.
Das #4 Hex Bit als Verlängerung für das Kreuzschlitz Bit zu nutzen ist zwar etwas eng, aber es erspart einem wirklich einen zusätzlichen Schraubendreher.
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Delicately take off the plastic cover from the controller.
Didn't realize there is adhesive holding the front cover onto the unit. It's located inside of the handles. Just a bit of force there helped, just be careful of the cable.
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Use the tip of an opening pick to open the black flap of the ZIF connector by pushing it upwards.
Having just completed this repair, I noted that this ribbon cable can disconnect on either side. It is easier to disconnect and reconnect from the other side than what is shown in my experience.
@acestronautical is right! much easier to remove the ribbon cable from the button board, connect to the base board and then connect back to the button board. Thank you @acestronautical
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Tweezers$4.99
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Use your fingers or a pair of blunt nose tweezers to disconnect the interconnect cable from its connector.
You don't need to disconnect this as long as you are fine with keeping it close by so as not to rip the ribbon cable.
Caden Helm - 답글
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Remove the two 6.8 mm-long screws on the top circuit board using a Phillips screwdriver.
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Remove the black ribbon cable from its connector.
What do I do if the connector snaps off? Is it fixable with solder or electrical tape or should I give up hope?
Jack Frost - 답글
This ribbon cable is difficult to reconnect, quality tweezers are required. I was unable to slide the ribbon cable in to where I could no longer see the traces. Take note of how much ribbon cable is exposed before disconnecting so that you can have an easier time judging when the cable is fully inserted upon reconnecting.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Cal Poly, Team S11-G2, Regan Fall 2019 Cal Poly, Team S11-G2, Regan Fall 2019 회원
CPSU-REGAN-F19S11G2
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This guide does show how to remove the trigger/bumper casing and board from the controller but does not show how to remove the triggers/bumpers from the casing they are in.
Yeah, this is a pretty big point to be missing, especially with the Flex Cable for the shoulder button inputs being right beside the post you need to pull out to remove the ZL and ZR buttons. Guidance on how to remove the post safely without damaging the cable would be great.
After reinstalling the shoulder buttons I have found them to stop working, all four, I checked my ribbon cable from the buttons to the board and even replaced it. I also confirmed the ribbon cable connector on the main board is working as well. Can anyone make any further troubleshooting suggestions?
Be carefull, these screws are super easy to strip even with the right tools.
Lukas Eberharter - 답글
I tried editing these instructions after I had trouble with stripping screws, but it doesn't seem to take. The issue is that these are JIS and not Phillips screws. They are VERY similar looking but a Phillips head screwdriver will strip the screws.
Isaac Webb - 답글
I tried using a Philips #00 screwdriver but it didn’t work
vincent ingrassia - 답글
Don't even think about trying Phillips. There are some other guides online that say you'll be fine, but they're wrong. Even one attempt with Phillips WILL strip these, and you will never, ever get this controller open once that happens. Even with JIS they're really hard to get out and really easy to strip.
Luke T. Allen - 답글