이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
Galaxy Note9 배터리가 빨리 방전되거나, 충전되지 않거나, 전원이 켜지지 않으면 교체해야 할 시기일 수 있습니다. 이 안내서를 따라서 새 배터리를 설치하세요.
안전을 위해서, 휴대폰을 분리하기 전에 25% 이하로 방전하세요. 이는 배터리 수리 도중 실수로 손상할 때 일어날 수 있는 열 화재 위험을 줄일 수 있습니다. 배터리가 부풀어 올랐다면, 적절한 예방 조치를 취하세요.
최적의 성능을 위하여, 안내서대로 새로 설치한 배터리를 교정하세요: 100%로 충전한 다음 최소 두 시간 이상 더 충전하세요. 그다음 기기가 배터리 방전으로 꺼질 때까지 사용하세요. 마지막으로, 멈춤 없이 100%로 충전하세요.
필요한 것
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분해를 시작하기 전에 휴대폰의 전원을 끄세요.
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헤어드라이어, 열선총을 사용하거나 iOpener를 준비하여 휴대폰 후면의 오른편 가장자리에 약 1분 동안 적용하여 아랫면의 접착제를 부드럽게 하세요.
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후면 커버에 흡입 손잡이를 부착하세요.
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흡입 손잡이로 들어 올려 후면 커버와 휴대폰 프레임 사이에 틈을 만드세요.
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틈에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
It takes so much heat that it is concerning that damage might be caused to the internal parts. It is difficult to heat the glue, pull the case apart and insert the pick at same time. May need some more pointers to handle these situations first, to prevent possible damage. Also what about the glue that is heated and then cooled before opening? Does it run inside and cause greater adhesion after it cools? Another thing, the handling may cause the phone to turn back on while working to separate. Don't know that that is of concern.
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휴대폰의 나머지 부분보다 상단 가장자리와 카메라 베젤 주변에 접착제가 더 많이 사용되었습니다.
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지문 센서 근처 왼편 가장자리를 조심히 자르지 않으면 내부 리본 케이블이 손상될 위험이 있습니다.
It's extremely easy to crack the back glass when nearing and rounding the corners. It's probably a good idea to soften the adhesive with heat as you go.
Step 5 is NOT "cut through the adhesive", that's steps 5-10. Step 5 is "Begin the careful process of cutting through the adhesive, starting at the right side where you already softened it. Proceed carefully, slowly, and warmly through the following steps."
These comments are spot-on. I never break a phone, and I cracked the back glass following the instructions without seeing these comments first. Heat the back much more than you think you need and go super, super slow.
The bottom inner adhesive layer reaches higher than what you see in the diagram above, so you will have to insert the pick deeper at the bottom and the sides along the bottom to separate the inner adhesive area. Just don't force the corners of the covers upward too much to keep from cracking the glass.
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상단-오른쪽 모서리에 여는 픽을 남겨두세요.
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다른 여는 픽을 사용하여 하단-오른편 모서리 주변의 접착제를 자르세요.
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휴대폰에 여는 픽을 남겨두세요.
There seems to be a lot of glue at the bottom, I broke the glass as I was cutting past the charging port - not sure if it was already fractured or just not enough heat (I used Sellotape so it didn't break up into pieces!)
I think LOTS of heat & patience is the key!
Be very careful around the corners and bottom (probably top too, but I didn't have a problem there). Make sure you've cut in far enough down the side first (go in about 1cm) but less round the corners and work in slowly.
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열선 총 또는 헤어 드라이어를 사용하거나 가열한 iOpener를 후면 패널의 왼편에 약 1분 동안 적용하여 아랫면의 접착제를 부드럽게 하세요.
If using an iOpener it will need to be fully heated and set on for at least 5 minutes. You’ll know the phone is hot enough when its almost too hot to touch.
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후면 패널 왼편-하단 모서리에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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다른 여는 픽을 사용하여 후면 패널의 왼편 가장자리를 따라 접착제를 자르세요.
Aside from the left edge where the fingerprint sensor cable is, you may have to insert the pick up to 2cm on the sides and top, and a little further along the bottom, and swipe sideways to separate the inner adhesive areas. If one side doesn't separate fully, just apply heat, insert the pick deeper into the phone, and swipe sideways until the back cover detaches. There isn't a need to apply much vertical force, especially on the corners, since the cover will just pop up once all the adhesive has been sliced by the pick.
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꽂혀있는 여는 픽을 사용하여 후면 패널 상단-왼쪽 모서리 주위의 접착제를 조심히 자르세요.
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끝으로, 휴대폰 상단을 따라 나머지 접착제를 자르세요.
Be VERY patient as you slide the opening picks around the periphery of the glass, and use heat very liberally. Make sure the smooth, clear aspect of the iOpener is against the glass, not the rough black portion.
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먼저 후면 커버 오른편을 분리하세요.
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왼편 가장자리를 따라 커버를 위로 기울여 지문 센서 리본 케이블을 드러내세요.
Thought I'd done something wrong here as there wasn't a cable attached to the back - the fingerprint reader hadn't come away with the back, but had stayed with the phone.
Exactly the same experience. Made life a little easier.
Happened to me as well.
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Spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 지문 센서 리본 케이블을 소켓에서 들어올려 빼세요.
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후면 커버를 분리하세요.
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핀셋을 사용하여 휴대폰 섀시에 남아 있는 접착제를 제거하세요. 그 다음 (최소 90%) 고농도 이소프로필 알코올과 보풀-없는 천으로 접착 부분을 청소하여 새 접착 표면을 준비하세요.
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새 접착제를 설치하고 휴대폰을 다시 닫기 전에 휴대폰을 켜고 수리를 테스트하세요.
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새 접착제를 후면 커버에 조심히 바르고, 유리의 한쪽 가장자리를 휴대폰 섀시에 맞추고 유리를 휴대폰에 단단히 누르세요.
I am installing a new backplate (this is my first repair; I was CERTAIN that I would crack the back glass, and I was NOT wrong) but I’m not sure how tweezers are meant to remove gooey adhesive! I simply used the blue plastic pry tool as a scraper and gently rolled up the goo. Maybe the glue is different because I have a refurbished phone? That may also explain why I had so much trouble with Step 1. Hope that this helps!
Use tweezers remove any inner adhesive strips that may have started peeling off when the back cover is removed, or adhesive clumps. If an adhesive starts to peel off, use tweezers to pull the strip off completely, and then replace only that removed adhesive strip. Actually, the iFixIt inner adhesive strips don't seem to have the white non-stick areas that are on the original adhesive strips. Thus, it seems ok to keep the original inner adhesive strips if still attached to the phone.
The outer adhesive border is like a good, not a strip, and should be replaced. Using isopropyl alcohol to rub off only the edge adhesive on the phone and back cover works well.
After adding a new outer adhesive and reattaching the back cover, you have one try to align and replace the cover. The cover might not attach flush onto the phone with no side gaps, due to the outer adhesive strip placement. It is probably sufficient if the outer adhesive seals all the way around the back cover border.
While testing the phone after battery replacement, but before reattaching the back cover, if a thermal warning (triangular thermometer icon) appears during charging that prevents charging over 50%, remove the charging cable and use a lightly warmed iOpener or heat gun on the battery to warm it slightly. Once the battery is warmed up a little, reattach the charging cable, and the error should go away. Battery charging can be resumed. This assumes no hardware was damaged during battery replacement.
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12 단계 상단 중앙프레임 분리하기
주의: 12-15 단계들은 진행 중으로 표시된 안내서에서 제공되었습니다.
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Phillips/십자 스크류드라이버를 사용하여 상단 중앙프레임을 고정하는 4mm 나사 아홉 개를 풀어주세요.
There are two more screws on the bottom right corner of the little side frame that the Qi plate is glued to. I took those out as it put less stress on it.
John Stone - 답글
It helps to hold the fine tweezers with your non-dominant hand to support the screw heads and ensure they come straight out; you can also gently lift as you unscrew.
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배터리 하단과 상댠-왼편 모서리 배터리 홈에 90% 이소프로필 알코올 몇 방울을 바르세요.
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알코올이 배터리 아랫면의 접착제를 부드럽게 할 때까지 몇 분 정도 기다리세요.
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알코올이 배터리 밑으로 흐르도록 휴대폰을 다양한 각도로 기울이세요.
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배터리에 흡입 컵을 붙이세요.
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여는 픽을 끼울 수 있을 정도의 간격이 생길 때까지 배터리를 똑바로 들어 올리세요.
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배터리 하단 가장자리 아랫면에 여는 픽을 끼우고 비틀어서 배터리 접착제를 풀어주세요.
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배터리를 분리하세요.
Zero chance of the iFixIt suction cup sticking to the battery as it is too big so hangs over the side and doesn't get a seal.
I used loads of IPA, waited, tilted phone about, more IPA, more tilting, more IPA and prised the battery a bit at the bottom with a spudger, more IPA, prised a bit more at the bottom then (gently) prised it from the top left and it came out.
Der Saugheber hat gar nicht gehalten. Den Akku damit anzuheben war unmöglich. Stattdessen habe ich den Akku durch seitliches hebeln mit dem "Jimmy" Werkzeug heraus bekommen.
The iFixIt suction cup doesn't work, as stated in the other comment. After injecting the alcohol, you can insert a spudger into the hold at the top-left corner of the battery. It seems like this hole was made for the purpose of popping out the battery. You could probably also use a pick on the bottom center of the battery to pop it out. Just pull it out slowly.
If you plan to replace the battery adhesive, the adhesive doesn't seem to stick to the battery directly, so I instead stuck it into the battery compartment over the existing adhesive, and then placed the battery on top.
When reinserting the new battery, you may want to push the the battery higher up in the compartment, so that the battery cable more easily aligns with the connector on the phone. It may take a few tries to align the battery perfectly. Even with the new adhesive, the battery doesn't stick much, which is fine, so that it can come out more easily next time. It's enough to maintain friction to not move around I think.
If this is your first battery swap for the phone, consider peeling off the Note product sticker from the old battery and reattaching it to the new battery if you want to keep it.
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기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의
답변 커뮤니티에서 도움을 받으세요.
새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하세요—설치하기 전에 나머지 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 뒷면을 제거해야 할 수 있습니다.
기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의
답변 커뮤니티에서 도움을 받으세요.
새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하세요—설치하기 전에 나머지 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 뒷면을 제거해야 할 수 있습니다.
다른 54명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
71%
Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 7개
Great guide, much thanks!
شكرا لك اليوم. لقد استبدلت البطارية بسهولة باتباع الخطوات الأولى في المرحلة الأولى. شكرا
Thanks very much for posting this - it helped a lot. My Note 9 lives on!
Robert Oswald 4/29/21
Great to hear Robert, and good job!
Good Evening Samo,
Thanks for the step by step instruction, they are perfect.
Richard
Do you just reheat the adhesive or do you need new/more adhesive?
If using an iOpener it will need to be fully heated and set on for at least 5 minutes. You’ll know the phone is hot enough when its almost too hot to touch.
Spencer Barron - 답글
Just came here to say exactly that. The instructions should be amended to state that: "Get it fully hot and leave it there for at least three minutes solid."
Mister Fixer - 답글