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이 안내서를 사용하여 전면 카메라 및 센서 어셈블리를 교체하세요.

  1. iPhone을 분해하기 전에 iPhone 배터리를 25% 이하로 방전하세요. 충전된 리튬-이온 배터리에 실수로 구멍이 생기면 화재를 일으키거나 폭발할 수 있습니다.
    • iPhone을 분해하기 전에 iPhone 배터리를 25% 이하로 방전하세요. 충전된 리튬-이온 배터리에 실수로 구멍이 생기면 화재를 일으키거나 폭발할 수 있습니다.

    • 분해를 시작하기 전에 iPhone 전원을 끄세요.

    • Lightning 커넥터 옆에 위치한 3.6mm-길이 P2 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf - 답글

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson - 답글

    Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it

    GPZ - 답글

    If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.

    Andrew Dolan - 답글

    A few hints:

    * heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.

    * also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...

    Paul Faulstich - 답글

    • 다음 두 단계는 iSclack 사용 방법입니다. iSclack은 한 개 이상 수리하는 사람에게 자사가 권하며 iPhone 6 Plus를 안전하게 여는 훌륭한 도구입니다. iSclack을 사용하지 않는 다면 다음 두 단계는 건너 뛰세요.

    • 플라스틱 깊이 게이지가 iSclack 중앙에 부착되어 있다면 지금 분리하세요—iPhone 6 Plus 처럼 대형 휴대폰에는 필요없습니다.

    • iSclack 핸들을 닫아서, 흡입컵 턱을 여세요.

    • iPhone 하단을 흡입 컵 사이에 놓으세요.

    • iSclack 상단 흡입 컵을 홈 버튼 근처 디스플레이에 놓으세요.

    • 손잡이를 열어서 iSclack 턱을 닫으세요. 흡입 컵을 중앙에 맞추고 iPhone 상단과 하단에 단단히 누르세요.

    • 디스플레이 또는 후면 유리가 심하게 금이 간 경우, 투명 포장 테이프를 붙이면 흡입컵을 붙이는데 도움이 됩니다. iSclack은 이를 위해 테이프 두 조각을 포함하고 있습니다.

  2. iPhone을 단단히 잡고 iSclack 핸들을 닫아 흡입 컵을 분리하세요, 전면 패널을 후면 케이스에서 위로 들어올립니다. iSclack은 부품을 분리하기에 충분하지만 디스플레이 케이블을 손상하지 않는 만큼 iPhone을 안전하게 열어줍니다.
    • iPhone을 단단히 잡고 iSclack 핸들을 닫아 흡입 컵을 분리하세요, 전면 패널을 후면 케이스에서 위로 들어올립니다.

    • iSclack은 부품을 분리하기에 충분하지만 디스플레이 케이블을 손상하지 않는 만큼 iPhone을 안전하게 열어줍니다.

    • 흡입 컵 두개를 iPhone에서 분리하세요.

    • 다음 세 단계를 건너 뛰고 8 단계로 진행하세요.

    It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

    Herbert - 답글

    I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

    Michael Wallace -

    I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

    johnoconna -

    Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

    Tracey -

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry - 답글

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike - 답글

  3. iSclack이 없는 경우 흡입 컵 하나를 사용하여 전면 패널을 들어올리세요:
    • iSclack이 없는 경우 흡입 컵 하나를 사용하여 전면 패널을 들어올리세요:

    • 홈 버튼 바로 위에 흡입 컵을 화면에 누르세요.

    • 단단히 밀폐하기 위해서 컵을 스크린에 꽉 누르세요.

    • 디스플레이가 심하게 깨진 경우 투명 포장 테이프를 붙이면 흡입 컵을 부착할 수 있습니다. 대안으로, 흡입 컵 대신에 매우 강한 테이프를 사용할 수 있습니다. 다른 모든 방법이 실패하면 초강력 접착제를 사용하여 흡입 컵을 깨진 스크린에 붙일 수 있습니다.

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut - 답글

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter - 답글

    May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.

    Patricia Tucker - 답글

  4. 전면 패널과 후면 케이스 사이에 약간의 틈을 만들기 위해 일정한 힘으로 흡입 컵을 위로 당기세요.
    • 전면 패널과 후면 케이스 사이에 약간의 틈을 만들기 위해 일정한 힘으로 흡입 컵을 위로 당기세요.

    • 서두르지 말고 확실하고 일정하게 힘을 가하세요. 디스플레이 어셈블리는 대부분의 기기보다 꽉 끼워져 있습니다.

    • 흡입 컵을 계속 당기며 플라스틱 여는 도구를 사용하여 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 후면 케이스를 살짝 들어 올리세요.

    • 전면 패널 어셈블리를 후면 케이스에 고정하는 여러 클립이 있으므로 흡입 컵과 플라스틱 여는 도구를 함께 사용하여 전면 패널 어셈블리를 분리해야 합니다.

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas - 답글

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick - 답글

  5. 플라스틱 너브를 당겨 흡입 컵의 진공 씰을 해제하세요. 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 흡입 컵을 분리하세요.
    • 플라스틱 너브를 당겨 흡입 컵의 진공 씰을 해제하세요.

    • 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 흡입 컵을 분리하세요.

    There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

    Larry Ingerling - 답글

    @lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen - 답글

  6. 휴대폰 상단을 힌지로 사용하여 전면 패널 어셈블리 홈 버튼 끝을 후면 케이스에서 당겨 빼세요. 디스플레이를 약 90º 각도로 열고 휴대폰에 작업하는 동안 무언가에 기대어 놓으세요. 작업하는 동안 고무 밴드를 사용하여 디스플레이를 안전하게 잡으세요. 이렇게 하면 디스플레이 케이블에 과도한 무리가 가는 것을 막습니다.
    • 휴대폰 상단을 힌지로 사용하여 전면 패널 어셈블리 홈 버튼 끝을 후면 케이스에서 당겨 빼세요.

    • 디스플레이를 약 90º 각도로 열고 휴대폰에 작업하는 동안 무언가에 기대어 놓으세요.

    • 작업하는 동안 고무 밴드를 사용하여 디스플레이를 안전하게 잡으세요. 이렇게 하면 디스플레이 케이블에 과도한 무리가 가는 것을 막습니다.

    • 유사시에는, 열지 않은 음료수 캔을 사용하여 디스플레이를 잡으세요.

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos - 답글

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen - 답글

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos - 답글

    Help. Up to this point, everything worked well by following your instructions and the helpful comments. Here’s the problem. The home button and the metal plate that is part of the screen stayed with the bottom part of the phone. Because the home button has a cable attached to the screen assembly, I cannot lift up the screen even a 1/4 inch without damaging the home button cable. What can I do? I did remove the two little screws as instructed in step one.

    Richard Kaapuni - 답글

  7. 전면 패널 상단 가장자리를 따라 위치한 여러 클립들이 부분 hinge/힌지를 형성하여 전면 패널 어셈블리를 책 처럼 열게 합니다. 재조립하는 동안 후면 케이스 상단 가장자리 바로 아래에 클립들을 정렬하세요. 그런 다음 상단 가장자리가 후면 케이스와 같은 높이가 될 때까지 전면 패널을 위로 미세요.
    • 전면 패널 상단 가장자리를 따라 위치한 여러 클립들이 부분 hinge/힌지를 형성하여 전면 패널 어셈블리를 책 처럼 열게 합니다.

    • 재조립하는 동안 후면 케이스 상단 가장자리 바로 아래에 클립들을 정렬하세요. 그런 다음 상단 가장자리가 후면 케이스와 같은 높이가 될 때까지 전면 패널을 위로 미세요.

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato - 답글

  8. 배터리 커넥터 브래킷을 고정하는 다음 Phillips/십자 나사들을 분리하세요:
    • 배터리 커넥터 브래킷을 고정하는 다음 Phillips/십자 나사들을 분리하세요:

    • 2.3mm 나사 한 개

    • 3.1mm 나사 한 개

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams - 답글

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson - 답글

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao - 답글

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis - 답글

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany - 답글

    Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.

    Use a Phillips #000.

    bobgottner - 답글

    Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is this step necessary ?\

    Asianay - 답글

    @asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.

    Jeff Suovanen - 답글

  9. iPhone 금속 배터리 커넥터 브래킷을 분리하세요.
    • iPhone 금속 배터리 커넥터 브래킷을 분리하세요.

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan - 답글

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor - 답글

  10. 깨끗한 손톱이나 여는 도구의 가장자리를 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 로직 보드 소켓에서 조심히 들어 올리세요.
    • 깨끗한 손톱이나 여는 도구의 가장자리를 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 로직 보드 소켓에서 조심히 들어 올리세요.

    • 로직 보드 소켓 말고 커넥터 조심히 들어 올리세요. 로직 보드 소켓을 들어 올리면 커넥터가 완전히 끊어질 수 있습니다.

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams - 답글

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor - 답글

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut - 답글

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert - 답글

    I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!

    Alyssa Sayuki - 답글

  11. 전면 패널 어셈블리 케이블 브래킷을 고정하는 Phillips/십자 나사들을 분리하세요:
    • 전면 패널 어셈블리 케이블 브래킷을 고정하는 Phillips/십자 나사들을 분리하세요:

    • 1.2mm 나사 세 개

    • 2.9mm 나사 한 개

    • 2.9mm 나사 한 개

    • 빨간색으로 표시된 나사 구멍에 더 긴 나사를 넣지 마세요. 로직 보드를 영구 손상할 수 있습니다.

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert - 답글

    Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop - 답글

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh - 답글

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo - 답글

    Since this guide is for DISPLAY replacement, I don’t see how you can skip the steps for disconnecting and removing the DISPLAY.

    Jim Bateman -

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard - 답글

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark - 답글

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric - 답글

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT - 답글

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard - 답글

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter - 답글

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos - 답글

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. - 답글

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!

    Paul Johnson - 답글

    The most fiddly part of the job.

    Much easier if you put the screwdriver head on the screw and then insert it into the opening. The slight magnetism will hold it in place. Don’t fully tighten a screw until all the screws are in place. Much like installing lug nuts on a car.

    GPZ - 답글

    I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.

    Bruce Platt - 답글

    I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.

    Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!

    I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.

    Dana Smith - 답글

    I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.

    my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.

    Maria Filamor-Robinson - 답글

    I realized too late just how handy the magnetic mat is that they have in their shop. So I organized the screws with a piece of clear packing tape. On the smooth side, use a sharpie to draw spacious circles with “R” “O” and “Y” inside each circle to represent the color coded screws and then use the sticky side to keep the screws in place. I found that using the tweezers to take them off the screwdriver helps you stick them head first to the tape better.

    Selena Castillo - 답글

  12. 전면 패널 어셈블리 케이블 브래킷을 로직 보드에서 분리하세요.
    • 전면 패널 어셈블리 케이블 브래킷을 로직 보드에서 분리하세요.

  13. 다음 네 단계에서 케이블 커넥터만 들어 올리고 로직 보드 소켓은 들어 올리지 않도록 주의하세요. 전면 패널을 지탱하며, 손톱 또는 여는 도구의 가장자리를 사용하여 전면 카메라 및 이어피스 스피커 커넥터를 분리하세요.
    • 다음 네 단계에서 케이블 커넥터 들어 올리고 로직 보드 소켓은 들어 올리지 않도록 주의하세요.

    • 전면 패널을 지탱하며, 손톱 또는 여는 도구의 가장자리를 사용하여 전면 카메라 및 이어피스 스피커 커넥터를 분리하세요.

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - 답글

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen - 답글

  14. 홈 버튼 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요. 홈 버튼 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.
    • 홈 버튼 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.

  15. 이 단계에서 케이블을 분리하거나 다시 연결하기 전에 배터리가 분리되어 있는지 확인하세요. 플라스틱 여는 도구를 사용하여 디스플레이 데이터 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.
    • 이 단계에서 케이블을 분리하거나 다시 연결하기 전에 배터리가 분리되어 있는지 확인하세요.

    • 플라스틱 여는 도구를 사용하여 디스플레이 데이터 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.

    • 휴대폰을 재조립할 때 디스플레이 데이터 케이블이 커넥터에서 빠져나올 수 있습니다. 이는 휴대폰을 다시 켤 때 흰색 선이나 빈 화면이 나타날 수 있습니다. 이런 경우 케이블을 다시 연결하고 전화기의 전원을 껐다 켜세요. 휴대폰의 전원을 껐다 켜는 가장 좋은 방법은 배터리 커넥터를 분리했다가 다시 연결하는 것입니다.

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni - 답글

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino - 답글

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?

    Ila Awasthi - 답글

  16. 끝으로, 디지타이저 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요. 디지타이저 케이블을 다시 연결할 때, 커넥터의 중앙 부분은 누르지 마세요. 커넥터의 한편 끝을 누른 다음 반대편 끝을 눌러주세요. 커넥터 중앙 부분을 누르면 부품이 구부러져 디지타이저를 손상할 수 있습니다.
    • 끝으로, 디지타이저 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.

    • 디지타이저 케이블을 다시 연결할 때, 커넥터의 중앙 부분은 누르지 마세요. 커넥터의 한편 끝을 누른 다음 반대편 끝을 눌러주세요. 커넥터 중앙 부분을 누르면 부품이 구부러져 디지타이저를 손상할 수 있습니다.

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop - 답글

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop - 답글

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones - 답글

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    Charles - 답글

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles - 답글

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein - 답글

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard - 답글

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons - 답글

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius - 답글

    I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.

    darrcc - 답글

    And forgot one thing, keep a can of air duster woth you to remove as must dust as you can see. A camera air blower will also do nice.

    darrcc - 답글

    I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…

    When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).

    The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.

    The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.

    This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.

    Morgan Giddings - 답글

    About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.

    Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19

    Robert H Bernard - 답글

  17. 전면 패널 어셈블리를 후면 케이스에서 분리하세요.
    • 전면 패널 어셈블리를 후면 케이스에서 분리하세요.

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard - 답글

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs - 답글

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian - 답글

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK - 답글

    Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.

    Laura Houghton - 답글

  18. 상단 부품 브래킷을 고정하는 다음 Phillips/십자 나사들을 풀어주세요:
    • 상단 부품 브래킷을 고정하는 다음 Phillips/십자 나사들을 풀어주세요:

    • 1.5mm 나사 한 개

    • 2.3mm 나사 두 개

    Nice move, which can stop the bracket from falling down.quite detailed instruction. but you should choice an excellent front facing camera and sensor before the replacement.

    William - 답글

    Attempted this repair and my touch screen completely stopped working. Great walkthrough, but not sure what I did wrong in the repair to cause my issue.

    surfincubus86 - 답글

    Hi I've had exactly the same problem, what was your solution to this? would be very helpful!

    Iona -

    I had the same issue. My screen quit working and I could feel heat coming through my phone at the earpiece. I took the phone apart again and realized that the data cable for the screen had come loose. When I reattached the data cable and starting working steps 12-18 backwards to replace the shield, as noted in the very last step, I see that youhave to keep the screen at an inclinewhen replacing the shield over the cables. Otherwise, you stretch the display data cable and it can come loose. My screen works fine now and there is no heat coming from my earpiece.

    Angela Hall -

    Just completed this repair. My front facing microphone next to the ear piece had gone bad causing siri to not hear me and front facing videos had no sound. Definitely reccomend getting replacement parts from ifixit. Have had good experiences with all their parts unlike many other suppliers on the internet. Hate to admit it (don't want them to raise prices) but even though you pay a little bit more, you save frustration not getting DOA parts from cheaper sources. All of ifixit's parts are top quality and they even pack them in anti-static packaging. That says alot. Thanks ifixit!

    sherwood7 - 답글

    Great instructions save the later steps. The ear speaker piece having to bend 180 degrees for the installation needs more clarification.

    howchewdoin - 답글

    After this repair, my screen quit working and I could feel heat coming through my phone at the earpiece. I took the phone apart again and realized that the data cable for the screen had come loose. When I reattached the data cable and starting working steps 12-18 backwards to replace the shield, as noted in the very last step, I see that you have to keep the screen at an incline when replacing the shield over the cables. Otherwise, you stretch the display data cable and it can come loose. My screen works fine now and there is no heat coming from my earpiece.

    Angela Hall - 답글

    The middle screw, listed as a 2.3mm was actually a 2.9mm in my iPhone 6 Plus

    Matthew Goheen - 답글

  19. 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 이어피스 브래킷을 들어올려 분리하세요.
    • 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 이어피스 브래킷을 들어올려 분리하세요.

  20. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 전면 카메라와 디스플레이 케이블을 들어 올리고 옆으로 살짝 치우세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 전면 카메라와 디스플레이 케이블을 들어 올리고 옆으로 살짝 치우세요.

  21. 핀셋을 사용하여 이어피스 스피커를 단단히 잡고 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 분리하세요.
    • 핀셋을 사용하여 이어피스 스피커를 단단히 잡고 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 분리하세요.

  22. Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 센서 케이블 어셈블리를 디스플레이 어셈블리의 홈에서 조심히 들어 올리세요. 케이블은 약하게 접착제로 고정되어 있습니다.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 센서 케이블 어셈블리를 디스플레이 어셈블리의 홈에서 조심히 들어 올리세요.

    • 케이블은 약하게 접착제로 고정되어 있습니다.

    Use a hair dryer to pre-heat and soften the adhesive. Otherwise, damage to the flex cable can occur.

    Rajat Sewal - 답글

  23. 전면 카메라 및 센서 케이블의 마이크 부분을 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 조심히 들어 올리세요. 전면 카메라 및 센서 케이블의 마이크 부분을 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 조심히 들어 올리세요.
    • 전면 카메라 및 센서 케이블의 마이크 부분을 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 조심히 들어 올리세요.

    Das Mikrofonkabel ist mit einem Klebeband am Display besfestigt und muss durch anwärmen weich gemacht werden. Sonst besteht die Gefahr, dass beim Abziehen das Flachbandkabel beschädigt wird. Gruß Mike

    Mike - 답글

    Bei meinem iPhone 6 Plus hörte das Kabel direkt vor der Gummiumrandung und nach dem Mikrofon auf. Auch das Ersatzteil ging nur bis dahin. Man musste also den Teil mit der Gummiumrandung nicht ablösen.

    gaby - 답글

  24. 전면 카메라 및 센서 케이블 어셈블리를 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 분리하세요.
    • 전면 카메라 및 센서 케이블 어셈블리를 디스플레이 어셈블리에서 분리하세요.

    • 교체용 어셈블리는 스피커 메시를 제공하지 않을 수 있습니다. 만약 없다면 이전 부품을 재사용하세요. 약간의 헤어 드라이어 열과 핀셋으로 살살 들어 올리거나 당겨서 분리할 수 ​​있습니다.

결론

기기를 다시 조립하려면 위의 단계를 역순으로 따르세요.

다른 114명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

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Walter Galan

658,173 평판

안내서 1,203개 작성하였습니다

My front microphone had completely stopped working exactly a week out of warranty. I replaced the front assembly with a new one from Fixit and afterwards it still did not work. Then I realized the microphone did pick up very soft sound if I shouted directly into it. I eventually repeated the entire disassembly and found a very thin yellow film glued to the microphone grill which had been muffling 97% of the sound. After peeling this off my microphone is working perfectly! I did not notice this on the microphone the first time and assume it was the backing for the self adhesive. Make sure you remove this - it is not obvious to spot!

Anthony Berkow - 답글

ave did wrongSo I replaced my iphone 6 plus screen and after i was done my front camera and my earpiece was no longer working. Any advice on what i might have did wrong ? I have another iphone plus to replace the screen and im a little skeptical now. =\

brian - 답글

Fantastic instructions! fixed my problem first time. Just be patient and try not to touch anything to roughly. Thanks for the tip from a previous comment saying to remove the yellow piece of film over the microphone. This saved me a lot of hassle. Thanks

Glad to have siri, dictation, sound in videos and hansfree calls back :)

lloyd - 답글

hi could i ask one qustion my iphone 6pluse not working after fall i change new sensore bu tnot working how to fix please conect to me

peth - 답글

Is the picture quality the same

QuentaviouS - 답글

I have followed the directions. However, my screen now has vertical lines all through it. Did I ruin a sensor or did I not connect something right. The touch screen doesn't seem to work anymore either.

Thomas Miller - 답글

You should probably start by disconnecting the battery and re-seating all the display cable connectors (disconnect them and then carefully re-connect them, making sure they snap fully into place). Re-connect the battery and try again. If that doesn't do the trick, post your question in our help forum—you'll get much quicker/better responses there!

Jeff Suovanen -

I phone 6 plus This front camera is real? pls inform this mail: visual8697@gmail.com

visual - 답글

Hi everyone, is there any way to disassemble/separate the front facing camera from the sensor (without damaging it)?

Erick Pandjaitan - 답글

Hi everyone. I need help on an iPhone 6 Plus front facing camera not working. But when I take the screen out and put to another iPhone 6 Plus it work. So that mean the not working phone has the logic board problem with front facing camera connector???? I guarantee the facing camera on the screen is worked

Jack nguyen - 답글

Works like a charm. Thanks for the detailed and very clear step-by-step guide. This was my first DIY iPhone repair experience. Took me about 1.5h from start to finish, and I found it essential to have a good lighting.

Step 24 was the trickiest: the microphone portion is strongly glued to the front grill, and one should be careful not to destroy the adhesive, as it will be needed to hold in place the replacement microphone (and, I'm guessing, also to maintain moisture protection after the repair).

@closetedgeek - 답글

I have replaced my iPhone 6 Plus screen done with all steps besides plugging in seems cables aren’t long enough or I did something wrong ??? Any idea what I did wrong ?

Dustin p - 답글

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