이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
이 지침을 따라서 MacBook Pro의 접착된 배터리를 iFixit 접착제 제거제를 사용하여 교체하세요. 접착제 제거제는 배터리를 고정하는 접착제를 녹여서 배터리를 수월하게 분리할 수 있습니다.
‘’’iFixit 접착제 제거제는 인화성이 매우 높습니다.’’’ 통풍이 잘되는 곳에서 이 절차를 수행하고 불 근처에서 담배를 피우거나 작업하지 마세요.
손상 위험을 최소화하려면 이 절차를 시작하기 전에 MacBook을 켜고 배터리를 완전히 방전하세요. 만약 충전된 리튬-이온 배터리에 실수로 구멍이 나면 위험하고 걷잡을 수 없는 화재를 일으킬 수 있습니다. 배터리가 부풀어 올랐다면, 추가 예방 조치를 취하세요.
참고: 배터리 접착제를 녹이는데 사용하는 용액은 MacBook Pro 플라스틱 스피커 인클로저와 같은 특정 플라스틱을 손상할 수 있습니다. 모든 지침을 따르고 어디에 접착제 제거제를 발라야 하는지 주의하세요.
필요한 것
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Mac 전원을 켜고 Terminal/터미널을 시작하세요.
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다음 명령을 복사하여 Terminal/터미널에 붙여 넣으세요 (또는 정확히 입력하세요).
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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[return]을 누르세요. 관리자 암호 입력 메시지가 나타나면 관리자 암호를 입력하고 [return]을 다시 누르세요. 참고: return 키는 ⏎ 또는 "enter/입력"으로 표시되어 있을 수도 있습니다.
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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P5 Pentalobe/별나사 드라이버를 사용하여 하단 케이스를 고정하는 나사 여섯 개를 풀어주세요:
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6.2mm 나사 두 개
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3.4mm 나사 네 개
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MacBook Pro 전면-중앙 근처 하단 케이스에 흡입 핸들을 사용하세요.
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흡입 핸들을 들어 올려 하단 케이스와 섀시사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요.
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여는 픽의 한쪽 모서리를 하단 케이스와 섀시사이의 틈에 넣으세요.
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여는 픽을 가장 가까운 모서리를 따라서 돌아 밀며 케이스 측면의 절반 정도 위로 미세요.
Be careful and try to move slowly on this step. Once the clip released, my pick slipped towards the back and I could have damaged some internal components but got lucky. Only insert the pick as far as absolutely necessary
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맞은편에 이전 단계를 반복하여 여는 픽을 하단 케이스 밑에서 측면 위로 밀어서 두 번째 클립을 풀어주세요.
Recommend being very careful on this step and the following step when using any opening tool to always keep the “pointy end” up when prying, especially about 40mm up the side, to avoid completely destroying the speaker diaphragms.
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하단 케이스를 MacBook 전면을 향해 단단히 당겨 (힌지 부분에서 멀리) 하단 케이스를 고정하는 마지막 클립을 풀어주세요.
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한쪽 모서리를 먼저 당긴 다음 다른 모서리를 당기세요
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하단 케이스를 분리하세요.
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디스플레이 힌지 근처 슬라이딩 클립을 제자리에 맞추고 정렬하세요. 커버를 아래로 누르고 힌지를 향해 미세요. 클립이 맞물리면 미끄러짐은 멈춰야 합니다.
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슬라이딩 클립이 완전히 맞물리고 하단 케이스가 올바르게 정렬된 것처럼 보이면, 하단 케이스를 단단히 눌러 아래에있는 숨어있는 클립 네 개를 맞물리세요. 그들이 제자리에 끼워지는 것이 느껴지며 소리가 들려야 합니다.
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배터리와 가장 가까운 로직 보드 가장자리에서 배터리 커넥터를 덮고있는 큰 테이프를 조심히 벗기세요.
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테이프를 떼어내세요.
It’s probably best to keep up with this tape until you’re done, but my iFixit battery came with this tape already installed
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Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 케이블을 커넥터에 고정하는 작은 검정색 잠금 탭을 위로 젖히세요.
Be very careful here. It is easy to break the whole connector off the battery board, which is what I did. Luckily the connector is part of the replacement battery, so you just need to remove the connector from the cable. The pictures here should provide more detail so you can see better what is going on.
thanks a lot !!!!! great help :)
any advice on replacing the locking Mechanism?
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배터리 보드 데이터 케이블을 소켓에서 밀어내세요.
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케이블 방향으로 로직 보드와 평행하게 밀어주세요.
As simple as this step might seem, the golden leads will disapper the moment you remove it as it has some adhesive under the black strip that covers it. Ensure you peel it back enough to display the golden leads after swapping the batteries out.
Your battery may come with this ribbon cable. In that case, disconnect the other end.
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배터리 보드 데이터 케이블을 옆으로 접어서 치우세요.
unfortunately the instructions to removing this cable are absent and I tried to pry the tab up instead of out and I damaged my board. Now no battery will work but it still functions with only with power cord. So be careful!
same here 😞
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Spudger/스퍼저를 사용하여 배터리 전원 커넥터를 살살 들어 올려 배터리를 분리하세요.
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커넥터가 소켓에서 떨어져 있도록 충분히 높이 들어 올리세요. 수리 도중 실수로 접촉하면 MacBook Pro를 손상할 수 있습니다.
To completely avoid accidental contacts I recommend to wrap this connector in a piece of paper and hold it in place with tape.
Do not put tape directly on the contact underside, as that may leave some glue that would affect the contact conductivity.
I put a piece of tape on the underside of the connector (sticky side up) to insure against accidental battery contact. If you put tape on the logic board side of the connection, some insulating padding material might accidentally stick to the tape when the tape is removed during reassembly.
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iOpener를 준비하여 약 일 분 동안 트랙패드 리본 케이블 위에 놓고 트랙패드 리본 케이블을 배터리 상단에 고정하는 접착제를 부드럽게 하세요.
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iOpener가 없는 경우, 헤어 드라이어를 사용하여 케이블을 데우세요. 케이블은 따뜻해야 하지만 만지기에는 너무 뜨겁지 않아야 합니다. 배터리가 과열되지 않도록 주의하세요.
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T5 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 트랙패드 어셈블리를 고정하는 나사 열 개를 분리하세요:
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4.3mm 나사 두 개
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5.8mm 나사 여덟 개
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T5 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 배터리 보드에서 3.2mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
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디스플레이를 보호하려면, 작업히는 동안 디스플레이와 키보드 사이에 알루미늄 호일 한 장을 놓아두세요.
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또한, 테이프 및/또는 호일을 사용하여 트랙패드 아랫면을 밀봉하세요. 옵션으로, 트랙패드 영역 바로 아랫면에 흡수 타월을 깔아서 과도한 접착제 제거제를 흡수하세요.
This is an important point. I had missed. I feel a better image with a towel would better emphasize.
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Spudger/스퍼저로 테이프 가장자리를 모두 눌러서 MacBook Pro 알루미늄 케이스에 단단히 고정하여 스피커를 배터리로 부터 밀봉하세요.
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테이프를 살짝 접어 스피커에 부착하여 방해가 되지 않도록 하세요.
The speaker membrane is also relatively delicate. You can put a small piece of paper to protect it, to avoid the tape gluing to it directly.
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이제 MacBook Pro는 완전히 준비되었으니, 귀하가 준비할 시간입니다.
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접착제 제거제를 취급하고 사용할 때는 보안경을 착용하세요. (보안경은 키트에 포함되어 있습니다.)
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보안경없이는 콘택트 렌즈를 착용하지 마세요.
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보호 장갑도 키트에 포함되어 있습니다. 피부 손상이 걱정된다면 지금 장갑을 끼세요.
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접착제 제거제 병에서 검정색 고무 마개를 당겨 빼세요.
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가위를 사용하여 봉인된 어플리케이터 끝을 자르세요.
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좁은 끝에 가깝도록 자르면 조절이 수월해져서 접착제 제거제를 소량으로 바를 수 있습니다.
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배터리 맨 오른편 아랫면에 접착제 제거제 몇 방울을 바르세요.
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다음 단계로 진행하기 전에 접착제 제거제가 스며들어 배터리 접착제가 부드러워질 때까지 약 2분 정도 기다리세요.
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몇 분 후에 플라스틱 카드 한쪽 모서리를 전면 가장자리부터 시작하여 맨 오른편 배터리 셀 아랫면에 넣으세요.
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카드를 좌우로 흔들고 배터리 셀 아랫면에 끝까지 밀어 넣으세요.
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접착제를 들어서 완전히 분리하되, 배터리 셀은 아직 분리하지 마세요.
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계속하는 동안 셀이 다시 붙지 않도록 플라스틱 카드를 배터리 셀 아래에 임시로 놓아두세요.
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배터리 셀 아랫면에 카드를 넣는 것이 어렵다면, 배터리 셀 아랫면에 치실 또는 철사를 사용해 보세요. 접착제를 분리하기 위해 톱질 동작으로 좌우로 당기세요.
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마지막 몇 단계를 반복하여 맨 왼편 배터리 셀을 분리하세요.
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먼저 MacBook Pro 왼편을 들어올려 접착제 제거제가 스피커에서 멀리 흐르도록 하세요.
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플라스틱 카드 한쪽 모서리를 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 아랫면에 밀어 넣고 제자리에 고정하는 접착제를 조심히 분리하세요.
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계속하는 동안 접착제가 다시 붙지 않도록 플라스틱 카드를 셀 아랫면에 임시로 놓아두세요.
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나머지 배터리 셀 세개 아랫면에 접착제 제거제를 몇 방울씩 떨어뜨리세요.
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새어 나오는 것을 주의하고 필요한 경우 다음 단계에서 더 많은 접착제 제거제를 사용하세요.
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계속하기 전에 2분 정도 기다리세요.
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플라스틱 카드를 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 아랫면에 끝까지 밀어 넣고—이전 단계에서 이미 분리함—나머지 왼편 배터리 셀과 MacBook Pro 알루미늄 케이스 사이에 조심히 넣으세요.
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플라스틱 카드 중 하나의 모서리를 큰 중앙 배터리 셀 상단 가장자리 아랫면에 밀고 다른 셀 아래에서 작업하세요.
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카드를 좌우로 흔들고 배터리 셀 아랫면에 밀어서 제자리에 고정하는 접착제를 완전히 분리하세요.
This was VERY hard for me. I’m not sure whether there are any risks to this - it worked fine for me - but after doing this step and prying the back of the battery up a little, I propped up the front of the laptop and added some isopropyl alcohol to the front side of these cells. Take your time, let the alcohol work, and apply more as needed (I used 90% isopropyl instead of adhesive remover)
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배터리를 분리하세요.
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새 배터리를 설치하기 전에 MacBook Pro 케이스에 남아있는 접착제를 모두 제거하세요.
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핀셋이나 장갑을 낀 손가락을 사용하여 모든 큰 접착제 조각을 떼어내세요.
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플라스틱 도구로 남은 접착제 덩어리를 긁어 내고 접착제 제거제 또는 이소프로필 알코올로 아랫 부분을 청소하세요. 섀시가 깨끗하고 새 배터리를 위한 준비가 될 때까지 (앞 뒤가 아닌) 한 방향으로 닦으세요.
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완료하면 스피커에서 보호 테이프를 조심히 제거하세요.
Cleaning up the little clear patches of adhesive residue after getting the black bits off took quite a while... I used isopropyl alcohol and found that you can drop a little on the residue, wait until it changes to kind of a blue-ish color, then wipe it off! (I used a coffee filter...)
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Tesa 61395 Tape$5.99
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배터리 데이터 케이블을 유의하여 배터리 보드 아래에 집히거나 갇히지 않도록 하세요.
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배터리 밑바닥에 접착제가 사전-설치된 경우, 뒤집어서 조심히 라이너를 벗겨 접착제를 드러내세요. 배터리가 접착제를 포함하지 않은 경우, Tesa 61395와 같은 얇은 양면 접착 테이프를 사용하여 배터리를 제자리에 고정하세요.
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배터리를 조심히 배치하고 제자리에 맞추세요.
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각 셀을 5-10초 동안 길게 눌러 하단 케이스에 고정하세요.
Extremely detailed and easy to follow instructions! I ordered all the tools from ifixit and they worked great. I didn’t use the adhesive remover. I was able to carefully work a plastic card behind each battery section. This took a little more effort but I didn’t feel comfortable using acetone on a macbook.
Instead of acetone/alcohol blend adhesive remover I used 91% isopropyl alcohol available at any pharmacy. Acetone will melt many/most plastics, alcohol will not.
91% isopropyl alcohol and a thin plastic card worked fine, took a little more time and patience but worked.
While the acetone is better at loosening/removing adhesive, you also increase the risk of damaging plastics around the battery area or worse if it should leak into the keyboard or other area!
As the instructions note ... DO NOT over apply their adhesive remover!
Thanks iFixit for providing great tutorials, parts and supplies!
Happy Customer
Professional!!!!!
Thank you mate!
This how you care and describe it step by step it’s amazing.
😻
If your battery comes with clear plastic film on the top, leave it on until the battery is installed — helps keep all the cells together. I lined up the middle cells first and pressed them in, then took off the clear liner one side at a time to place the other cells
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기기를 재조립하려면, 위의 단계들을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 기본 문제 해결 또는 자사의
답변 커뮤니티에서 검색하세요.
기기를 재조립하려면, 위의 단계들을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 기본 문제 해결 또는 자사의
답변 커뮤니티에서 검색하세요.
다른 32명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
50%
Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 15개
Why doesn’t this kit contain a P5 pentalobe screwdriver? It’s literally the first step, and now I have to buy another tool to even get started?
Hi John, which kit did you purchase? We don’t sell a battery replacement kit for this exact model, only the part, so you’d have to make sure you have all the tools listed in the guide before you buy the part and add anything you don’t have to your cart.
If a P5 was supposed to be included in the kit you did purchase, reach out to customer service and they will promptly send one to you.
Great guide… worked for me. Only comment I would make is that finding the Adhesive remover on its own was impossible so I removed the old battery with some patience, floss and the the plastic levering tools. I cleaned off the remaining old sticky stuff and residue with basic sticky stuff remover and it worked just fine :)
Great guide to at least get to unplugging the battery. My daughter’s work computer was black screened and would not arise despite working the power button and changing chargers. I figured it just needed a super hard reset. So, this guide helped me get the back off and the battery unplugged. Put it all back together and - I’m a hero for a minute!
The guide provided great instructions. I had never replaced a battery in a Macbook Pro 2019 before. I was able to do so with this information. All was well for about 10 minutes after the new battery was installed. Laptop booted and I was able to access the internet. I walked away for a few minutes and returned to see a dark gray screen with about one inch columns in the across the display in the background. I hear the chime when the laptop boots and that's it. The instructions were just what I needed. Thank you.
Thank you! Repair is done
Hi there I just change my battery. But it's not being detected. I'm currently just running it on the power cable only. Any solutions.
What a wonderful and detailed tutorial! Respect! And thank you very much! The underside of my MacbookPro (2019, Intel) bulged outwards, the batteries always got VERY hot - especially in Turbo Boost. After switching off the Turbo Boost (Turbo Boot Switcher Pro), the batteries no longer got hot, but the curvature became more and more pronounced. After loosening the screws that hold the lower cover, it jumped out at me. All the cells were swollen and under high pressure.
I didn't use acetone and instead very carefully loosened the glue with a corner of the small "cheque cards". This required some patience, but worked very well and without kinking or destroying the cells. Using the acetone (and Q-tips), I finally only removed the adhesive residue. The tools supplied were complete and of good quality.
Thank You again!
Was für eine traumhafte und detaillierte Anleitung! Respekt! Und meinen allerbesten Dank!
Bei meinem MacbookPro (2019, Intel) wölbte sich die Unterseite nach außen, die Akkus wurden -insbesondere im Turbo-Boost- immer SEHR heiß. Nach Abstellen des Turbo-Boost (Turbo Boot Switcher Pro) wurden die Akkus zwar nicht mehr heiß, aber die Wölbung wurde immer stärker. Nach Lösen der Schrauben, die den unteren Deckel halten, sprang mir dieser schon entgegen. Alle Zellen waren gebläht und standen unter hohem Druck.
Auf das Aceton habe ich verzichtet und statt dessen sehr vorsichtig mit einer Ecke der kleinen „Scheckkarten“ den Kleber gelöst. Das erforderte etwas Geduld, ging aber sehr gut und ohne die Zellen zu knicken oder zu zerstören. MIt dem Aceton (und Q-Tips) habe ich schließlich nur die Kleberreste entfernt. Die mitgelieferten Werkzeuge waren komplett und von guter Qualität.
Nochmals meinen besten Dank!
Great guide! Thank you. I would also like to make a helpful comment: by the time you start to assembly (after step 44), start first installing the trackpad and adjust the position of it properly. Maybe is quite obvious but is not clear in the guide. And also before to adhere the battery to the case, ensure to put the battery board screws (two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws), because it will make easy the battery installation. Remember also start for the middle modules and then the side ones. Good luck!
Hello, one question : is your replacement battery model will be seen as an original Apple one or will the OS notify an unknown battery model has been installed ?
Fortunately no! At least the one I've installed (from iGadgets NZ) don't show up any signs of 'not genuine part'. Really looks like genuine in terms of performance and in macOS settings as well (currently running Sequoia 15.1.1).
Fede2T -
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - 답글
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - 답글
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - 답글
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - 답글
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - 답글
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - 답글
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - 답글
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - 답글
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - 답글
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - 답글
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - 답글
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - 답글
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - 답글
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - 답글
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - 답글
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - 답글
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - 답글
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - 답글
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - 답글
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - 답글
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - 답글
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - 답글
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - 답글
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - 답글
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - 답글
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -
Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!
Jack - 답글