이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
이 안내서를 따라서 Nintendo Switch Lite에서 닳고 성능이 저하된 배터리를 교체하세요.
Switch Lite는 JIS 나사를 사용하지만 필요한 경우 십자 드라이버를 사용할 수 있습니다. 나사가 벗겨지지 않도록 각별히 주의하세요. iFixit의 Phillips 비트는 JIS 스타일 나사와 교차 호환되도록 설계되었습니다.
안전을 위해서, Switch를 분해하기 전에 배터리를 25% 이하로 방전하세요. 이는 수리 도중 실수로 배터리를 손상할 때 일어날 수 있는 열 화재 위험을 줄일 수 있습니다. 배터리가 부풀어 올랐다면, 적절한 예방 조치를 취하세요.
참고: 이 단계는 방열판에 붙어있는 실드 플레이트를 분리하는 것이 필요합니다. 실드 플레이트를 재설치하기 전에 열 페이스트를 닦아내고 방열판에 다시 바르는 것이 필요합니다.
필요한 것
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Y00 스크루드라이버를 사용하여 후면 패널을 고정하는 6.3mm-길이 나사 네 개를 풀어주세요.
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JIS 000 드라이버 또는 공식 iFixit PH 000 드라이버를 사용하여, 후면 패널을 고정하고 있는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:
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기기 상단의 3.6mm-길이 나사 두 개
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기기 하단의 3.6mm-길이 나사 두 개
I accidentally stripped the back screw and now I can't open it. I removed all the other screws. What should I do?
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JIS 000 또는 공식 iFixit PH 000 드라이버를 사용하여 다음 나사 네 개를 풀어주세요:
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3.1mm 나사 세 개
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4.5mm 나사 한 개
There are four screws instead of three mentioned
With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage with the next few steps, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).
i stripped a &&^&^$^ screw
Well I actually removed the screw right next to the 4.5 screw. I did not realize it till my son showed me why the plate wouldn't release. Ha ha, it's funny now but yeah not a big deal. I could have bent it badly assuming I took all screws out though. For anyone reading this before going in. 👍
Toastninja - 답글
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Spudger/스퍼저 또는 손가락을 사용하여 실드 플레이트를 위로 들어올려 기기에서 분리하세요.
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실드 플레이트를 분리하세요.
What type of Thermal Paste would you guys recommend? I clicked on the picture but nothing.
Personnaly i use some Mx-6 from Artic, really good quality/price, never have to complain.
Nothing -
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여는 도구 또는 손톱을 사용하여 마더보드 상호 연결 케이블 ZIF 커넥터의 작은 힌지 잠금 덮개를 뒤집으세요.
The clip broke off when trying to remove this cable. Audio only works through headphones and the display now won’t turn on after the clip broke. Does anyone know where I could get a clip or how I could fix it without it?
Mi è successa la stessa cosa è non so come ripararla! Chissà se c’è un modo!
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핀셋을 사용하여 마더보드의 커넥터와 연결된 상호연결 케이블을 빼내세요.
I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on
The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?
We're you able to get it working without the white flap? My screen is not working after putting it back together and i noticed this white flap was falling off
Did you get it working without the white flap? Everything on the switch works fine except for audio going through headphones and the display not turning on.
do not use metal sharp pointed tweezers! you will rip your ribbon cable. Use the inside of a Bic type pen or something else dull and plastic to pull the cable away by putting the pen part where the first bend is.
Maybe tape the Tweezers or smear some hot glue on them to insulate them to save you time and money.
Maybe put all the Warnings at the start of the guide as well. We fix it geeks tend to get excited when fixing things 😁
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Spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 마더보드 소켓에서 똑바로 들어 올려 빼세요.
Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.
Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-
I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?
Jannalyzer - 답글
You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.
With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage at this point, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).
just broke my connector... ifixit PLEASE put a warning on how fragile the solder on this connector is.
Note for this step, you do not need to apply a lot of force. I used two tools here: small screwdriver to hold down the black base, and one side of fine-tipped tweezers to get under all 3 wires. Gently, push down on the tweezers to push the wires upwards, which should force the gray connector up and off the base. It did not take a lot of force. Take your time and it will be fine. Again, like others have said, do NOT pull or pry up the black base.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:iFixit Adhesive Remover$19.99
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상단 가장자리를 따라서 배터리 웰 내부에 접착제 제거제 또는 고농도 (90% 이상) 이소프로필 알코올을 몇 방울 발라서 접착제를 약하게 하세요.
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배터리와 배터리 웰 벽 사이 틈으로 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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배터리 아랫면을 여는 픽의 끝으로 조심히 파고 가장자리를 따라 밀어서 접착제 자르기를 시작하세요.
It is not mentioned in any of the steps, but in this picture you can see that the strip that has the Volume & Power buttons is removed. I ended up tearing mine while trying to pry the battery out, so I recommend using the opening tool to release the clamp on it and to remove the piece until reassembly.
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여는 픽을 제자리에 두고 배터리 웰 내부에 접착제 제거제 또는 이소프로필 알코올을 몇 방울 더 바르세요.
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기기의 상단 가장자리를 위를 향해 기울이고 이소프로필 알코올이 접착제를 약하게 할 때까지 1-2분 동안 기다리세요.
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계속해서 여는 픽을 배터리 상단 가장자리를 따라 깊게 밀어서 아랫면의 접착제를 더 자르세요.
Don't use isopropyl alcohol for this step! Too much will leak behind the battery well and damage the LCD screen, and 1-2 drops is NOT enough to loosen the adhesive here. Highly recommend getting specific adhesive remover, or using a hair dryer (cool to warm setting, no more than 60*F) to loosen the adhesive. Learn from my mistake!
Just want to second Ashley’s comment here. I spent a lot of time and elbow grease prying that pick in there with IPA to no avail. I’m glad I saw their comment because with the hair dryer on medium I got the thing off in 5 minutes. Fortunately, I didn’t have the same leaking into the screen experience with the many more than a couple drops of alcohol I put behind the battery.
I read the comments too late cus I just &&^&@@ up my screen with alcohol drops.
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충분한 공간을 확보하면, 배터리 아랫면에 플라스틱 카드를 끼우고 배터리를 천천히 들어 올리세요.
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배터리를 분리하세요.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Microfiber Cleaning Cloths$3.99
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새 배터리를 설치하기 전에 접착제 제거제 또는 이소프로필 알코올과 극세사 천을 사용하여 배터리에 남아 있는 접착제를 깨끗이 닦아주세요.
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새 배터리에 사전-설치된 접착제가 제공되지 않는 경우, 배터리 하단에 이 안내서를 따라서 미리-자른 접착제를 설치하세요.
Now where do I get the new battery that actually fits?
It may be better to go through the screen replacement guide and remove the midframe assembly before trying to remove the battery. The amount of alcohol or acetone you will need to remove the battery will risk the screen and the plastic underneath. It's definitely more work, but the difficulty is the same if you're doing the battery replacement, just takes longer and needs more thermal paste.
I just want to add that removing this adhesive was a massive pain and it took me both nearly half a bottle of iFixit adhesive remover plus the hair drier trick (medium heat, about 5 min) to finally get it out. But it did finally come out.
Ripping the battery out is awful. Don't even risk it. You have to apply so much force just to get it to move half a mm. I used iso and the hairdryer. Finally got it out but punctured the old one while giving the last few heaves with a screwdriver. Do not recommend! . It got hot and started smoking. When I got the new battery in and hooked everything back up, my screen was dead. Top buttons also dead. It turns on but only by holding the home button. Must have damaged the ribbon cable during my fight with the battery. Just take it to a shop.
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기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 따르세요.
최적의 성능을 위하여, 이 안내서를 완료한 후 새로 설치한 배터리를 교정하세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의 기본 문제 해결 또는 Nintendo Switch Lite 답변 커뮤니티에서 확인하세요.
기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 따르세요.
최적의 성능을 위하여, 이 안내서를 완료한 후 새로 설치한 배터리를 교정하세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의 기본 문제 해결 또는 Nintendo Switch Lite 답변 커뮤니티에서 확인하세요.
다른 40명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
90%
이 번역인들은 저희가 세상을 수리하는 데 도움을 주고 있어요! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 27개
Hello!
I am preparing to repair my daughters nintendo switch light. It has stopped charging out of no where. I have all the tools, I just can't find the battery anywhere. Where would you recommend buying it from?
If you are still looking Ifixit sells one themselves Nintendo Switch Lite Battery
Thanks for the guide. Battery replacement kits are now available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-HDH-001-... (they weren’t in November! I was also looking for this during that time)
Unfortunately, the battery was much harder to remove than I expected. I did use a lot of isopropyl alcohol, but the adhesive they use really was giving me a lot of trouble. I should’ve wisened up and googled other adhesive removal methods or tried a new approach other than prying with the spudgers.
Well, now the LCD now has what looks like pressure damage in the bottom left where I’d imagine a lot of the prying pressure went. It is much more noticeable when the screen goes all-white, and not too bad with darker colors.
I don’t blame iFixit for my mistake of course, and it is really disappointing that Nintendo used the amount of adhesive that they did. But I hope this comment can serve as a warning to others attempting this repair to be more gentle even if it’s refusing to come off.
Yikes! Sorry to hear this. How did you pry with the spudger exactly? If you kept it around the top edge of the battery well then I would assume it wouldn’t damage the screen, but if you inserted the end of the spudger deeper in the battery well and used that point as the fulcrum, then I could see that putting a lot of pressure on the back of the LCD.
@craiglloyd I did an embarrassing amount of spudger prying pretty much everywhere along the top/bottom of the battery, I actually broke a few spudger tips in the process so that might reveal something about my approach…
But, I’m starting to think it may not be LCD damage after all, but rather some isopropyl alcohol caught behind the screen– During my prying, the Switch case was getting pretty heavily warped, so maybe some of the alcohol (that I definitely used in excess) slipped in and got sandwiched under the screen? I started to notice this since the blotches seem like they’ve moved over time. Here’s an image of the screen now https://imgur.com/DjYmFnJ (and the dark gray blotch along the leftside isn’t a shadow, white spots in bottom left I thought were pressure damage)
It’s still very usable / not noticeable on black colors and thanks again for the guide! I can give the screen more time to see if it improves at all, or maybe try going back in and trying to see it is trapped alcohol that can be released
vmgm -
Have the marks faded over time? We have had the ame issue and believe it is the isopropyl alcohol :/ we didn't use loads but found there was a gap at the bottom of where the battery is held which clearly let some of the alcohol through. I'm really hoping it will evaporate over time but not sure :/
Sadly no, the marks are still there, and haven’t been motivated to try to fix yet. I’ve seen some videos online where people can coerce trapped isopropyl alcohol out without having to take a screen apart, but have been hesitant to try out some of the methods.
vmgm -
Thanks for the detailed procedure. I followed the guide closely except for the battery removal procedure. The battery module is wrapped in foil backed plastic. This is easy to slice around the battery edges with an exacto knife. Once it is free, I could lever the battery module out of the bay. Then, I was able to trim the foil outer wrap into strips with the knife and peel it away in pieces. Now I am ready to install my new battery as soon as it arrives.
Same problem here with the Isoproponol which has left my sons screen really discoloured.
Can I suggest you update this tear down as I have always relied on Ifixit for both tool kits and guides and it is a shame that this has left my sons switch damaged. I do expect a bit better of a company that sells parts and tools to do this stuff.
Thanks however for the brilliant Ifixit tool kits.
after changing the battery I have gotten the 2101-0001 error code, how do i fix this?
What kind of thermal paste are we to use?
réparation super facile, juste un peu de patience avec l'alcool isopropylique, mais sinon, rien de plus simple à remplacer :D
As other people have said, the alcohol got into my unit’s display. I was able to get rid of it by using a hair dryer until the screen got really hot. I then used a suction cup on the screen to push and pull. You can see the “bubbles” start to go away. You may need to place it in several areas of the display. It is a bit scary as you need a good amount of force, but eventually it worked itself out. The display now looks perfect. Note that I left the glass screen protector on while I did this.
Same problem here too. Isopropanol also discolored my screen. Along with some mild pulling I assume that's unfixable? (price for a new/refurbished one makes it not worth... for me anyway) The dark clouds have lessened over a few days, but the lighter area that might have has the additional pulling seems to be the same.
Discard and it felt and it wasn't my fault since the Nintendo switch. Just fell and it wasn't my fault.
The dark splotches on the screen, that result from all the isopropyl alcohol needed to dissolve the unreasonable amount of glue under the battery, are not worth the caution. Especially, considering that to replace the screen costs three times what the battery does. I disassembled the backlight and air dried the different layers; I had 5 out. But that did not help! They were already stained by the alcohol. I tried using Zeiss lens cleaner, but that did not help much. The splotches are not as dark now, but they are still there. I think there is still more alcohol trapped between other layers.
My recommendation is to fully discharge the battery, put on eye protection, and use a "jimmy" and plastic cards to remove the battery. By the looks of it, I think that is certainly what iFixit did in their teardown article.
One trick I found was to stack picks under the battery to help push the battery out and away from the housing. Once i ran out of picks, i was able to put the jimmy between two of the picks and pop the battery the rest of the way out.
That is actually a good idea - reducing friction and increasing pressure. When I did it, I only used a single card, which ended up deformed by the time the glue separated!
There should be a much bigger, URGENT warning in the guide about the dangers of using alcohol for this. My screen is trashed now because I'm a doofus and i didn't read the comments until after following the guide. My new battery is great though!! Unfortunately now I have to replace my screen. And if I'm replacing the screen, I might as well add a custom shell. A repair that should have been cheap and easy is now leading me into a spiral of addiction to modding and customization.
Agreed! I've added the following warning to the relevant step, but it still needs verification from moderators:
Using more than a few drops of isopropyl alcohol will lead to alcohol leaking into the screen and staining the display, leading to splotches and requiring a more difficult and expensive screen replacement.
wiggles -
hi, I have ordered all the parts from ifixit and followed the precedence. however once closed the switch does not turn on. only when plugged into the charger does the nintendo lettering and the image of the battery being charged appear. once removed from the charger it remains without any signs of life. do you have any advice?
My Nintendo Switch Lite Battery Is Dropping Faster So I’m Gonna Need A New Battery For My Nintendo Switch Lite
When I did this repair, I didn't have that bottle that they showed in the review, but from what other people are saying in the comments, maybe it's a good thing I didn't.
What I did was get a bowl and put some isopropyl alcohol in it, and then just dip the plastic card or pick in it (if you don't have the plastic cards, an old credit card or something would probably work), and then work that in between every side of the battery, while tilting the switch to try and get the drips off the card into the battery.
Then when I had to pry, I started with one plastic card, then I layered two on top of each other to get a bit more force, and just slowly but surely pried it out, it took quite a long time.
As far as I can tell, this method worked quite well, the new battery works, and there's no damage to the screen at all.
Another tip I have for this repair is, use a mat with numbered screws, and print out the screw diagrams this site has and write the screw number on them.
Hope that helps!
Removing the original battery is the hardest part. What worked for me easily and without isopropyl alcohol was using a half of a plastic card which is narrow and you have room to move it around and remove the glue. Also I started prying from the bottom of the battery as it has much more space than from the top.
Just keep pushing the card in all directions and in a few minute you will get more than 70% of the glue removed, then place a picker to keep the battery up, l in a way that the glue don't stick again. The last 30% should require a few seconds.
This process didn't require me much pressure/force, so go slow and easy.
Good luck
I replaced the battery and all went well, functions beautifully, but when I go to put the backplate back on the screen goes dark. It still functions- makes noise and plays games with button input, but as long as the plastic backplate is on the screen goes black. Anyone have any ideas why??
All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?
Almost A Mammal - 답글
A Y0 screwdriver seemed to work better for me.
Tommy Morrill - 답글
What type of screw driver do I use to un screw the screws and which way
Luca Capito - 답글
Y 0.6 was all I had but it seemed to fit perfectly
Trevor - 답글
Like really snug? I've gotten away with using Drivers either bigger or smaller but I hate doing it. But if 0.6 is the exact size I need, then I'll get that. I don't wanna strip my client's Switch Lite's screws.
Vincent Valodze -