이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
이 안내서를 사용하여 iPhone 12 전면 카메라 어셈블리(별칭: 셀카 캠)를 분리하고 교체하세요. 이 부품을 새 부품으로 교체할 경우, “Face ID가 더이상 작동하지 않을 수 있습니다. 이 수리는 고장난 셀피 카메라를 원상복구하지만, Apple “공인" 기술자만이 Face ID 기능을 복원할 수 있습니다.
필요한 것
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분해를 시작하기 전, iPhone 전원을 꺼주세요.
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iPhone 하단 가장자리에 위치한 6.75mm 길이의 Pentalobe P2 나사 두 개를 푸세요.
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iPhone 후면 유리 전체를 가릴 때까지 투명 포장 테이프를 겹쳐서 붙이세요.
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다음 몇 단계에서 흡착 컵이 잘 고정되지 않는다면 (덕트 테이프와 같은) 강력한 테이프를 손잡이로 만들어서 후면 유리를 들어 올리세요.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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파란색 손잡이를 뒤로 당겨서 안티클램프의 팔의 잠금을 해제하세요.
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안티클램프 팔을 iPhone 왼편 또는 오른편 모서리에 맞추세요.
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흡착 컵을 iPhone 하단 가장자리 근처에 배치하세요—하나는 전면에, 하나는 후면에.
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컵을 함께 꽉 눌러서 원하는 부위에 부착하세요.
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헤어 드라이어를 한 곳에 장시간 두지 마세요.
Also: 3D Printer's heated bed set to 70-80 degrees Celcius for a few minutes does the job, as it basically works the same way heating mats used in professional repair shops do.
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확실하고 일정한 압력으로 흡입 컵을 위로 당겨 스크린과 프레임 사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요.
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여는 픽을 스크린의 플라스틱 베젤 아래의 틈 사이로 끼우세요.
This seems impossible. I've been trying for an hour with heat and rocking, and the screen doesn't budge. :(
Don’t give up! Use more heat and a tad more force. I know you may fear breaking it more, but as long as you don’t stick the prying tool too far or tug too hard, you can do it! I have faith that you can do it!
I'm in the same boat, this isn't coming off. I've tried the hair dryer as well as the heating pad from ifixit. Any other ideas?
The suction cup comes off before the screen will
Is there a better tool for this? Just saw a video on YouTube where a kid pryed it open with no heating/etc. in 5 seconds.
I've changed the batteries in probably a half dozen iphones of different models. But 25 minutes of heating and pulling had no effect on iPhone 12
Welp. I finally ended up breaking the screen attempting this. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR! Not worth the broken screen and losing the cost of shipping both ways when you return the battery.
thx, I ll go to an apple repair center
Back (and bad...) experience ! Even if you heat a lot, the screen is hardly sticked. Take care, before sliding the mediator under the screen, this one should be moved up, at least 2 mm. On my side i have slided around 1 mm and .... inserted the mediator between the glass screen and the screen structure ring.... result : glass break and screen to change (my initial exercise was the battery removal !). I feel that next time i will visit a repair center...
Pro tip for anyone having trouble with this. You have to use multiple rounds of heat and pulling. Use a hair dryer and not the iOpener that comes with the fix kit and get it just too hot to touch then quickly start pulling and wiggling it up and down. Once it cools down grab the hair dryer again and repeat it a couple times until you start to get a big enough gap.
I just did this yesterday and it took around 5 rounds of heating and pulling to get it to seperate enough from the body.It's important to insert the pick under the bezel. I just delaminated my screen. The screen was probably fine, but it was glitching, so I wanted to check for a bad connection. Anyway, now I get a new screen.
Under the bezel, eh.
After reading this almost a year later to the day I last commented on it, I now know that the best way I have found to remove a screen, from pretty much any phone, not just this one, is heat (I use a heating pad on 80 degrees celsius) and before putting the phone on the heating pad, I use 91% isopropyl alcohol around the edges that you will be sliding your pry tools in, and I leave it on for 10 min. I then take it off, add more alcohol, and then put it back on the pad for another 5 min. Also, while I am sliding my tools around the screen, I continuously add more alcohol, and if it takes a really long time, then more heat as well. Heat, alcohol, and patience, lots of patience, and you should be good. Hope this helps, good luck!
Can confirm, this does indeed work. Just keep warming it up, lifting up and down, and repeat when phone goes cold. After around 10 rounds it would move enough to where I could see inside the phone when lifted. You can then insert pick
Tip: You can also try to apply heat and lift the other corner, just enough to make it move slightly. This will ease pressure needed to separate the glue on the other side as-well.
No worries guys! it’s completely doable! You just need to be patient and keep trying multiple times
I don't doubt that you folks eventually got this open, but how on earth do you not lose your mind with the suction cup popping off every 5 seconds? Agree with Ryan above, have replaced batteries on several other iPhone generations with nowhere near this much effort. Still working on it going on 1 hr, about 10 rounds of hair dryer heat. Did Apple use a stronger adhesive for the 12?
Success. iOpener doesn't get the phone nearly hot enough. Multiple rounds of hair dryer + isopropyl alcohol dribbled in b/w case and screen while pulling up on suction cup. For me, the bottom left hand corner (volume rocker side) seemed to lift up first, so I moved the suction cup to that corner while doing the heat + alcohol.
When I changed the battery on a 7+ instead of the suction cup/heat method I used an Cacto blade inserted horizontally along the bottom edge to break the seal. Would this work on the 12?
I struggled with this step, but eventually got it. Use LOTS of isopropyl alcohol, and soak the entire perimeter. Let it sit for 30 seconds after application, then heat it up, then pull with the clamp and rock back and forth. Reapply the alcohol and repeat until it works. Took me about 30 mins, but I eventually got it up just enough for the first pick. The iOpener is completely useless, I just used a shrink wrap gun and made sure to hold it 8-12 inches from the phone on the lowest heat setting.
iOpener along the bottom edge, the Anti-Clamp, and three tries about 5 minutes each worked for me. Never popped off, just needed lots of patience and 1.5 screw turns on the clamp. Bottom left corner was first, like another commenter.
Neal Sofge - 답글
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헤어 드라이어를 사용하여 iPhone 오른편 가장자리(전원 버튼이 있는)를 90초 동안 또는 스크린을 만지기 어려울 정도로 약간 뜨거워질 때까지 가열하세요.
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iPhone의 오른편 하단 모서리를 돌아 여는 픽을 밀어서 접착제를 자르세요.
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오른편 상단 모서리에 닿을 때까지 iPhone의 오른편 가장자리를 계속 밀어 올리세요.
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계속하기 전에 픽을 오른편 상단 모서리에 그대로 두세요.
There is a spot on this side where a slight ridge in the iPhone frame makes the pick stick. Eventually I used two, one twisting a bit to open a path for the other. But if you're not expecting it you feel like you're going to break something.
Neal Sofge - 답글
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헤어 드라이어를 사용하여 iPhone의 상단 가장자리(전원 버튼이 있는)를 90초 동안 또는 스크린을 만지기 어려울 정도로 약간 뜨거워질 때까지 가열하세요.
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iPhone의 오른편 상단 모서리를 돌아 여는 픽을 밀어서 접착제를 자르세요.
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계속하기 전에 픽을 왼편 상단 모서리에 그대로 두세요.
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헤어 드라이어를 사용하여 iPhone의 왼편 가장자리를 90초 동안 또는 스크린을 만지기 어려울 정도로 약간 뜨거워질 때까지 가열하세요.
Also: 3D Printer's heated bed set to 70-80 degrees Celcius does the job - it basically works the same way professional heated mats that are used in phone repair shops.
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I kinda forgot about this step when I opened my first iPhone 12.
For the next one, I'm going to mark that edge of the phone with blue tape roughly where each cable is to help me remember.Also FWIW, I got the 70 cent adhesive cutting tool from Apple with my genuine battery and used that for all my display prying needs after getting the first opening propped with a guitar pick.
It worked great and did not damage anything so no need to sweat inserting something too far and causing damage.
Could you PLEASE move this to step 13?? I tore the front sensor cable. 😭
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오른편 가장자리가 본인을 향하도록 iPhone을 돌리세요.
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디스플레이를 오른편에서 돌려 iPhone을 여세요, 책의 앞 표지처럼.
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휴대폰에 작업하는 동안 디스플레이를 다른 물건에 기대어 세워 놓으세요.
i did this and the shroud with the earpiece speaker still stuck with the phone so its just wedged in there i cant get it out
lil teslas - 답글
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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배터리와 디스플레이 커넥터 커버를 고정하는 1.1mm 길이 Y000 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
Ouch, I see a broken flat here…
Can I use a y 0.6 if I don’t have y000
Yep! The measurements for Y000 are 0.6 mm.
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커버를 분리하세요.
Hi
On my original display on an iPhone 12, there is no metal hinge as shown here and therefore no place for it when closing the phone. Have double-checked model and the original display - and it is just not there. Is there another model based on serial number?
Hinge marked: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/asztgi60g...
Best regards,
Carsten
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Spudger/스퍼저 또는 깨끗한 손톱으로 배터리 커넥터를 로직 보드의 커넥터 소켓에서 들어올리세요.
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수리 도중에 실수로 배터리가 소켓에 닿지 않도록 커넥터를 로직 보드에서 바깥쪽으로 약간 구부려 주세요.
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Y000 드라이버를 사용하여 전면 센서 커넥터 커버를 고정하는 나사를 네 개를 풀어주세요.
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1.1mm 길이 나사 세 개
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1.4mm 길이 나사 한 개
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새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하세요—설치하기 전에 원래 부품에서 남은 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 뒷면을 제거해야 할 수도 있습니다.
기기를 재조립하려면, 위의 단계를 역순으로 수행하세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 업체로 가져 가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의 기본 문제 해결 페이지를 읽거나 iPhone 12 답변 커뮤니티에서 도움을 받으세요.
새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하세요—설치하기 전에 원래 부품에서 남은 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 뒷면을 제거해야 할 수도 있습니다.
기기를 재조립하려면, 위의 단계를 역순으로 수행하세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 업체로 가져 가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의 기본 문제 해결 페이지를 읽거나 iPhone 12 답변 커뮤니티에서 도움을 받으세요.
다른 14명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
85%
Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 한 개
Tausch hat gut funktioniert, nur muss Face ID von Apple noch konfiguriert werden, das machen sie aber nicht wenn sie die frontkamera nicht selbst ausgetauscht haben. War das letzte applegerät.
Markus kro - 답글
Do you sell the waterproof seals separately or are they included in the kit?
Heather Furnas - 답글
Do you sell the waterproof seals separately or are they included in the kit? (I would like to know this as well.)
CaliforniaGunner - 답글
I just got my Fix Kit and it includes the seals. Not sure if a "part only" version would, though.
Neal Sofge - 답글