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소개

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the Lightning connector flex cable in an iPhone. This flex cable includes the Lightning connector, headphone jack, dual microphones, and spring contacts for the Taptic Engine and loudspeaker.

  1. Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

    Anyone ever have the lever on these break? I’m in the process of removing logic board to remove a stuck SIM card

    aburningstariv - 답글

  2. Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.
    • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

  3. Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - 답글

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - 답글

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - 답글

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - 답글

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - 답글

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - 답글

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - 답글

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li - 답글

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - 답글

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - 답글

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - 답글

    i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

    this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

    makinfilms - 답글

    never ind ishook it… is that in the guide?….iopener is not in the kit……never was before is this an upsell? do i skip it? i dont have it

    makinfilms - 답글

    The following info is not given until step 21 in the instructions, and probably too late at that.

    DO NOT disconnect or reconnect any of the cables in this device until the battery itself has been disconnected!

    Don’t skip that step, intending to do it at the end, as you may damage the phone.

    ffissk - 답글

  4. Optionally, apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.
    • Optionally, apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.

    • Heat softens the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - 답글

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - 답글

    This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.

    Family Juinio - 답글

    I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

    Sarah Wruck - 답글

    Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

    Andy Carson - 답글

    just been given a 6s to repair, for this stage would a hot water bottle work ??

    Steven James - 답글

    I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

    Ark - 답글

  5. Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
    • Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

    • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

    • Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - 답글

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - 답글

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - 답글

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - 답글

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - 답글

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - 답글

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael - 답글

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - 답글

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - 답글

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - 답글

  6. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.

    • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - 답글

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - 답글

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - 답글

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - 답글

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - 답글

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - 답글

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - 답글

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - 답글

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - 답글

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - 답글

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - 답글

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - 답글

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - 답글

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - 답글

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - 답글

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - 답글

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - 답글

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - 답글

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - 답글

    My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

    Michael Cleveland - 답글

    What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

    The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

    ffissk - 답글

  7. There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open. Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.
    • There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.

    • Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - 답글

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - 답글

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - 답글

    +1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

    johnjustinirvine - 답글

  8. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.
    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - 답글

  9. Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case. Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.
    • Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

    • Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - 답글

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - 답글

    ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

    makinfilms - 답글

    Use two spudgers.

    One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

    The other to get worked around the unit.

    These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

    ffissk - 답글

  10. Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open. Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.
    • Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

    • Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

  11. Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone. Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.
    • Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

    This is some important step here I reckon. I didn’t release the clips individually and gradually, so when I pulled, the two halves of the phone separated quite suddenly and the cables ripped in half. Had to order a screen.

    Neil Bass - 답글

    How do I release the clips individually? Is there a good explanation?

    Dan Schwartz - 답글

  12. Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive. Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.
    • Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

    • Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - 답글

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - 답글

    You could use a clock weight with 2 socks wrapped around it and an elastic band to keep the screen at a 90 degree angle.

    AudiRo808 - 답글

  13. Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel. Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    Pulling up on the “nub” is a futile waste of time.

    ffissk - 답글

  14. Nintendo Switch 키트

    게임으로 돌아가기 위한 빠른 해결책

    Nintendo Switch 키트 쇼핑하기

    Nintendo Switch 키트

    게임으로 돌아가기 위한 빠른 해결책

    Nintendo Switch 키트 쇼핑하기
  15. Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
    • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - 답글

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - 답글

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - 답글

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - 답글

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - 답글

    this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

    takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

    makinfilms - 답글

    When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

    johnjustinirvine - 답글

    • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - 답글

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - 답글

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - 답글

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - 답글

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - 답글

    used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

    Kev Salmon - 답글

    mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

    makinfilms - 답글

    For some odd reason the screw “One 2.2 mm screw “ orange circled seems to be stuck and can not be unscrewed.

    Ahitagni Mandal - 답글

  16. Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone. Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
    • Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - 답글

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - 답글

  17. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - 답글

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - 답글

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - 답글

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - 답글

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - 답글

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - 답글

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - 답글

  18. Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work. Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.
    • Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - 답글

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - 답글

    How in the world does one reapply the edge adhesive without making a mess?

    gary - 답글

    the new battery from ifixit came with a dented connector and wont connect to the logic board. What do I do?

    Adam Frederick - 답글

    are you suuuuuure you didn’t dent the connector? i know if i had received a battery with a dented connector, i’d immediately contact the seller so you probably dented it yourself and now you’re trying to trick all us but we’re on to you.

    unibody deluxe -

  19. Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:
    • Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.8 mm screw

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - 답글

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - 답글

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    Sounds common but no solution? I keep working at it but no luck. Anyone find a way in the last few years?

    Kurt Mickelson -

    There’s no trick… Make sure you’ve got the right driver, press down HARD, and crank it. If it’s stripping, check your driver and consider moving up one size. Resources: Screwdriver Best Practices & How to Remove a Stripped Screw - Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - 답글

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - 답글

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - 답글

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - 답글

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - 답글

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - 답글

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - 답글

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - 답글

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - 답글

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - 답글

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - 답글

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - 답글

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - 답글

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - 답글

    Measurements in the guide are for the entire length of the screw, including the head, as measured with an ordinary digital caliper.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

    Mark Morris - 답글

    The display does not have to be removed! If you secure it in place with a rubber band as advised (actually one at the top and one at the bottom works best - stops the bottom half of the phone sliding towards you) , it will quite happily sit there while the battery is replaced. It’s definitely better not to have to remove and reconnect those display connectors!

    J-P jpfromadelaide - 답글

  20. Remove the display cable bracket. Remove the display cable bracket.
    • Remove the display cable bracket.

  21. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - 답글

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - 답글

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - 답글

  22. Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
    • Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - 답글

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - 답글

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - 답글

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - 답글

    Same problem…. any suggestions?

    Antonio Sacchet -

    My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

    cyp - 답글

  23. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step. Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

    • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - 답글

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - 답글

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - 답글

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - 답글

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - 답글

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The important warning about making sure that the battery is disconnected may be more beneficial at the BEGINNING of these instructions.

    ffissk - 답글

  24. Remove the display assembly.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - 답글

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - 답글

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - 답글

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - 답글

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - 답글

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - 답글

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - 답글

    If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

    Justin Tilghman - 답글

    Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

    The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

    Ramon Pabalan - 답글

  25. Use the point of a spudger to lift and disconnect the antenna cable from the bottom end of the logic board. To reconnect antenna cables like these to the socket, carefully align the connector to the socket, then use the flat end of a spudger to press down. It should click in place. If not, check for alignment. Do not use excessive force.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift and disconnect the antenna cable from the bottom end of the logic board.

    • To reconnect antenna cables like these to the socket, carefully align the connector to the socket, then use the flat end of a spudger to press down. It should click in place. If not, check for alignment. Do not use excessive force.

    Do not remove the isolation on top of the antenna or it will stop working. If you already removed it, use a piece of isolation tape to isolate it again.

    Jan - 답글

    There is no instruction on how to reconnect this antenna cable, and it is proving extremely difficult, at least for myself… Please help!

    Brennan Lutkewitte - 답글

    To reconnect antenna cables like these to the socket, carefully align the connector to the socket, then use the flat end of a spudger to press down. It should click in place. If not, check for alignment. Do not use excessive force.

    Arthur Shi -

    What does this cable do?

    Because accidentaly broke mine, but everything working fine, just want to be sure , what does it for!

    I broke at the end, when the gold round is. Somehow i placed the cable with that round ring , just to be sure , thst there is some contact with it, and pluged in!

    I know, i need to change the whole bracket with charging port etc., to fix the cable, cause i cant solder the conector back. But maybe i can just ignore the cable?

    sekuent - 답글

    Hi Sekuent,

    That cable attaches to possibly cellular antennas. It may be that certain bands are impacted by the break.

    Arthur Shi -

    Some more research may indicate that it may instead be the 2.4GHz Wi-Fi bands.

    Arthur Shi -

    Can i solder the wire with the plug round myself? Is it safe to do that?

    sekuent - 답글

    If you have soldering skills, definitely! Note that you have to solder the wire to wire. You can’t solder the wire to the round plug as it’s ground and not signal.

    Arthur Shi -

    When installing my new lightning port board, I had to rescue the isolation from my previous one. It came off fairly easily with tweezers.

    Edward Coe - 답글

  26. Use the point of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

    new ribbon cable doesn’t fit!

    Allen Grant - 답글

  27. If you are following this guide to replace the Lightning connector, you can choose to keep the antenna cable connected and skip this step and the next one. Be very careful not to strain the delicate antenna cable when you move the loudspeaker around. Use the point of a spudger to lift and disconnect the antenna cable from its socket near the top of the logic board.
    • If you are following this guide to replace the Lightning connector, you can choose to keep the antenna cable connected and skip this step and the next one. Be very careful not to strain the delicate antenna cable when you move the loudspeaker around.

    • Use the point of a spudger to lift and disconnect the antenna cable from its socket near the top of the logic board.

    Do not remove the isolation on top of the antenna or it will stop working. If you already removed it, use a piece of isolation tape to isolate it again.

    Jan - 답글

    The note here should read “you can choose to keep the antenna cable connected and skip this step and the next one” (steps 27 and 28). The way it reads now, “you can choose to keep the antenna cable connected and skip the next two steps”, makes it seem that you should skip steps 27, 28, and 29, which is clearly incorrect.

    Bom Tomdabil - 답글

    Hi Bom,

    That’s a great suggestion! Thanks! I will update the step.

    Arthur Shi -

    What is this antenna for?

    Daniel Gyabaah - 답글

    Hi Daniel,

    This should be the Wi-Fi diversity antenna, which improves Wi-Fi performance.

    Arthur Shi -

    Ah alright, on mine I've got this black foam on on top of it, is it true that if I remove it will stop working?

    Daniel Gyabaah -

    It might! The foam acts as an electrical insulator. Keep it on the connector.

    Arthur Shi -

  28. Carefully lift the antenna cable and de-route it from the edge of the phone. Use the point of a spudger to help lift the cable to free it from the retaining clips. If the cable does not have enough room to lift up, loosen this Phillips screw securing the logic board so that the board can give more wiggle room. Be sure to re-tighten this screw during re-installation.
    • Carefully lift the antenna cable and de-route it from the edge of the phone. Use the point of a spudger to help lift the cable to free it from the retaining clips.

    • If the cable does not have enough room to lift up, loosen this Phillips screw securing the logic board so that the board can give more wiggle room.

    • Be sure to re-tighten this screw during re-installation.

    • During re-installation, be sure to route the antenna cable underneath the logic board corner.

    • During re-installation, you can also re-insert the SIM card tray after re-routing the antenna cable.

    • If you feel any resistance, stop and make sure that the tray isn't snagging the antenna cable.

    Why would it be necessary to remove the antenna cable from the top for this repair? I did it whilst leaving it in.

    Edwin - 답글

    The antenna cable is taped to the speaker module in an inaccessible location. While it is possible to pull the cable out of the tape binding, doing so may break the cable. We opted to remove the cable with the speaker as a workaround.

    Arthur Shi -

    is it necessary to somehow try to get the antenna back into the retaining clips? I can’t say I can even see where they are.

    Tonya - 답글

    Hi Tonya,

    It is not necessary for the general operation of the phone. Keeping the antenna in the clips may help with grounding and keeps it in place so that you can easily insert/remove the SIM tray without snagging it. Wherever the antenna cable turns silver on the strand, there should be a corresponding clip underneath it.

    Arthur Shi -

    What if when taking the antenna out, it looks to have removed a tiny section of the black shielding? Do I need to replace the antenna?

    Martin - 답글

    HI Martin,

    The antenna has specific areas where the shielding is intentionally missing. These areas snap into corresponding clips on the phone frame.

    Arthur Shi -

    It’s not where the clips are, it’s right where it goes under the motherboard, so I am worried it might short the motherboard.

    Martin -

    You are most likely fine. You can use some electrical tape on the cable to help prevent any accidental contact.

    Arthur Shi -

    Same here - I replaced the speaker without taking the antenna cable out (which would have had me break the cable for sure).

    Richard Guenther - 답글

  29. Remove the following Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • Two 2.6 mm screws

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • This screw is different from the prior one. Be sure not to mix the two together.

    • One 3.0 mm screw

    For me, the 2.3 screw on the left was covered with a small black film. Maybe a prior repair? I had to excavate the screw.

    Janusz Welin - 답글

    Yes, the two orange 2.3mm screws are definitely different. May want to change the colors! Thankfully it wasn’t a catastrophic mistake.

    Alan M Taccone - 답글

    Hi Alan,

    Good point! I’ll change the colors.

    Arthur Shi -

    I also had to lift up some black film from the orange 2.3 mm screw.

    Edward Coe - 답글

  30. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the long edge of the speaker module and the case wall. Pry gently to loosen the speaker module. Once the module is loose, lift and remove the speaker module from the phone.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the long edge of the speaker module and the case wall.

    • Pry gently to loosen the speaker module.

    • Once the module is loose, lift and remove the speaker module from the phone.

    I could not completely remove the antenna cable (attached to the speaker) without removing other components. I just left the speaker and antenna cable dangling while I replaced the lightning connector.

    Tyler Clayton - 답글

  31. Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  32. Remove the following eight Phillips screws:
    • Remove the following eight Phillips screws:

    • Two 2.9 mm screws over the headphone jack

    • One 3.7 mm screw over the headphone jack bracket

    • Two 1.4 mm screws on the edge of the iPhone

    • Two 1.9 mm screws on either side of the Lighting connector

    • One 3.0 mm screw to the left of the connector

    Make sure you separate the “blue” (3.0mm) screw from the “red”(2.9mm) screws—they are next to impossible to tell apart by eye.

    Alexander Anderson - 답글

    As you remove the 3.7 mm screw(orange) be careful of the bracket(Step 51) as it sometimes lifts with the screw and you will need it for re-installation.

    Bryan Solo - 답글

    Don’t get these 2.9 mm screws mixed up with the 2.9 mm screws holding in the battery connector bracket from step 15. Unlike those, the ones in this step are not threaded along the whole shaft(?). This does make them pretty easy to tell apart, though.

    Bom Tomdabil - 답글

  33. Remove the plastic microphone bracket.
    • Remove the plastic microphone bracket.

  34. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the back of the phone near the bottom edge for one minute.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the back of the phone near the bottom edge for one minute.

  35. Insert a plastic opening pick between the edge of the rear case and the Lightning connector flex cable. Press the pick underneath the flex cable to break up the adhesive holding it in place. Press the pick underneath the flex cable to break up the adhesive holding it in place.
    • Insert a plastic opening pick between the edge of the rear case and the Lightning connector flex cable.

    • Press the pick underneath the flex cable to break up the adhesive holding it in place.

  36. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the Lightning connector assembly and rear case to break up the remaining adhesive. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the Lightning connector assembly and rear case to break up the remaining adhesive. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the Lightning connector assembly and rear case to break up the remaining adhesive.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the Lightning connector assembly and rear case to break up the remaining adhesive.

    The replacement lightning assembly has a factory plastic seal over the new adhesive—be sure to remove it before installing the new one.

    Alexander Anderson - 답글

    Well spotted, thanks!

    NMranchhand - 답글

  37. Use an opening tool to separate the microphones from the bottom edge of the rear case. Use an opening tool to separate the microphones from the bottom edge of the rear case. Use an opening tool to separate the microphones from the bottom edge of the rear case.
    • Use an opening tool to separate the microphones from the bottom edge of the rear case.

    There’s a rubber “o-ring” type gasket that goes between the plastic tube of the 3.5 mm housing and the bottom of the iphone where it leads out. Carefully remove it and replace it on the new lighting connector/3.5 mm housing tube before installing.

    Alexander Anderson - 답글

  38. Insert the point of a spudger into the microphone jack and push to loosen the jack from the rear case. Insert the point of a spudger into the microphone jack and push to loosen the jack from the rear case.
    • Insert the point of a spudger into the microphone jack and push to loosen the jack from the rear case.

    Theres a little buffer/washer thing on the back of this piece. Make sure to pull it off and re-use it on the replacement piece! The microphone won't work well without it.

    Jeff - 답글

    On the replacement lightning assembly, this microphone has a factory plastic seal—remove it before putting on the buffer/washer thing mentioned above.

    Alexander Anderson - 답글

  39. Remove the Lightning connector assembly. If your replacement part does not come with a gasket, use tweezers to remove it from the old part and transfer it onto the replacement part. Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly, use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case behind the cable.
    • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

    • If your replacement part does not come with a gasket, use tweezers to remove it from the old part and transfer it onto the replacement part.

    • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly, use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case behind the cable.

    There is a small plastic spacer for the microphone that might come off with Lightning connector assembly. If it does you can simply pull it off and apply it to the new assembly.

    Huntster - 답글

    The lightning connector does not have a gasket but instead some adhesive. You will need to replace this as it creates a seal between the connector and the frame.

    Bryan Solo - 답글

    Putting it back together, I did Step 38 first, then put the yellow, green and blue screws from Step 32 to hold everything in the right place. This forced the microphone ribbon cables to flex, moving the microphones into exactly the right place - I could then remove the film to expose the adhesive on the microphones and be confident they were sticking to the right spot. I then put in the spacer as in Step 33 and then the remaining three screws from Step 32. Somebody might point out a problem with this - but it seemed to work out ok for me. I could still take the film off the main adhesive backing for the whole assembly and stick it down in the right place.

    Quintin Cutts - 답글

결론

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 6s Answers community for troubleshooting help.

다른 256명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Arthur Shi

회원 가입일: 2018년 01월 03일

115,693 평판

안내서 340개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

Community

124 회원들

안내서 11,796개 작성하였습니다

the reason is the antenna is connected to the loud speaker but you can lay it out of the way, remember do not rip the cable that is attached to the speaker

Wilson Gilley - 답글

Can you just plug the new assembly in to check it, before going through the whole installation?

cropcord76 - 답글

ya man, just be careful, make sure battery is disconnected before connecting or disconnecting anything

Andrew -

I did this repair and everything went fine. The user now has issues with callers hearing them. Is there a cover/sticker over the microphone on the ifixit replacement part? Speaker works and he can talk on speaker phone with no issues. Any ideas?

bofootball57 - 답글

Did you pull the old adhesive off before reinstalling using the new adhesive? Did you align each mic correctly?

chamilton89 -

Had no problems, swapped out the port. I also skipped 21-47 but found there were one or two small things in there that needed to be done to remove the lightning port. Uncovering the screw was one one of them, but I forget the other. The hardest part for me was getting the screen up, but a little heat from a hair dryer helped loosen the adhesive. After that, pretty smooth sailing. Anyway, easy enough to do and the phone works again. Nice.

Pete - 답글

Followed the guide, didn't encounter a problem with skipping from 21-47 - but now i get a really weak cellular signal (changing from searching or no network to just no mobile data or no reception at all), even after ordering 2 more Lightning Port Assemblies and giving them a try...

I'm not sure if it's a grounding problem or because i didn't wear gloves, but i've read that there are more people with the same problem under the discussion of the iPhone 6 Lightning port change. Is there anyone who could help me?

Jan Hiebert - 답글

is there a way to check the new part, i completed everything and still is not working?

Ryan - 답글

did anyone have issues reattaching the antenna cable to the socket for reassembly in step 35? how do i line it up correctly? i can't seem to get it to stay.

also, perhaps related, the headphone jack and microphone do not work after i completed the switch. bluetooth calls work fine, and the speaker works but not the headphone jack or the microphone.

kapluni - 답글

Hi Kapluni, Did you get an answer to this? I don’t seem to have any damage but it just doesn’t seem to “click” into place.

Ronan Kenneally -

Skipped 21-47. Put back together, had issues with putting antenna back (step 35). Now the phone will not even turn on. Plugged to a power source, says to plug in to iTunes. Plug in to iTunes...nothing. Says it's in recovery mode. No clue what to do. Did not back up the phone, as my MacBook air is late 2011 and the iTunes will not recognize the phone anymore since last update. My fault for not backing up on new computer,,,about to lose all information. Any ideas?

Jason Schroeder - 답글

SKipped 21-47, only trouble was plugging antennae back in but stayed patient. Did the lightning headphone, battery and screen all together. Took about an hour or so.

joshuabogage - 답글

Hi, I tried to repair the Lightning. No problem exept that the power source is not recognize. I can’t charge the battery. I think the piece is a bad one…. I put the old Lightning and the charge is OK but i have to put back the wire with a tool.

Chacal - 답글

Everything went smooth, however something weird is happening now. When recording a video everything works fine, but when recording a video on Instagram, there is a very loud noise (like rain) and the sound is barely audible, you can’t hear pretty much nothing. Any idea of what the problem might be?

kraki - 답글

OK that was really hard! Yes, it pains me to admit it but I am at a point in my life where the ability to repair a phone doesn’t really serve my ego. I did all the steps because I didn’t notice the comments section until I got to step 56. Had I to do it over I would have made little trays for each type of screw and not tried to store them with associated parts during disassembly. This alone is why reassembly alone took me 3 hours! I keep swapping out screws to cover for bad guessing. Phone seems to work fine on day one. Here’s hoping for another two years of service!

Eric Anderson - 답글

Regarding the little antennae terminals. These require patience. I had convinced myself that I had bent the tiny little male prong and that was why it wouldn’t seat. It was fine. The design is not that weak. It just takes a steady pressure while every angle is tried.

Eric Anderson - 답글

Great guide and pictures, except you dont need to remove the logic board! I wish i had read these comments before starting :( Also a good idea to sort the screws!

Gabe Vacaliuc - 답글

As others have remarked, removing the logic board is totally unnecessary, and makes this repair so much more complicated (and risky). The speakerbox does not have to be disconnected at all, you can just put it aside carefully. Apple included extra length of cable to allow for that.

Even though it’s well made (and no doubt well intended) I think this tutorial should be revised or removed to correct this wrong approach.

In the mean time, a better video is this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J41KaLOR...

Manon Schuitema - 답글

This worked perfectly. Thank you.

Mark D Flannery - 답글

First full teardown of a clients device! Only been doing this for about a week. THANK YOU SO MUCH for the great guide! Didn’t miss a screw!

Brandon Tuey - 답글

Question- does the lightning connector cable adhesive not come in this kit? It wants me to buy it separately but then is out of stock. I would think that a kit would have everything I need so I’m confused. Thanks.

ElleT - 답글

Thank you so much for the great explanations and wonderful pictures - I wouldn’t be able to do this repair without it. It took me a while, and I took my time, but it ended on a very happy note with a fully functioning phone with a lightning port that will actually charge my phone! This was a great repair guide

Tim Griffin - 답글

This was an easy and complete/successful repair without taking out the logic board. Just be careful not to completely take out the speaker assembly; just move it up enough to pull up the ribbon cable below it. For my replacement part, I used one from another phone so I did this twice.

Breadman - 답글

Did anyone have a headphone jack problem where you turn the volume up and you can’t hear anything?

Neo_Tech - 답글

Had same issue with the headphone jack! The phone recognizes headphones are plugged in, and volume controls / pause and play work, but I don’t hear any sounds out of it. Did anyone find a solution to this problem?

Jake Liu - 답글

Merci pour ce tutoriel parfaitement illustré de magnifiques photos. Merci au traducteur, les photos ne suffisent pas toujours !

Réparation effectuée avec succès. C’est quand même réellement difficile et il faut absolument prendre son temps, surtout si c’est votre première réparation de ce type. Il faut être particulièrement délicat avec les connecteurs, surtout ceux de l’écran. Perso un des trois était abimé d’un côté (assemblage d’origine mal fait) et j’ai dû reformer le téton central écrasé d’un côté pour dégager un des minuscules connecteurs. Opération sous loupe binoculaire, ça aide ! :)

Les antennes sont les plus difficiles à rebrancher. Deux minuscules prises coaxiales qu’il faut aligner parfaitement pour les connecter et c’est pas évident car à l’œil nu on ne voit pas bien ce qui ce passe. Regarder à la loupe comment ces prises sont faites aide beaucoup à comprendre comment les positionner avant d’appuyer pour les connecter. Soyez très prudent.

Philippe Galmel - 답글

Did the whole thing, managed to get it done, but charging was still iffy, and both the haptic engine and speakers stopped responding

Simply re-opened and re-seated everything, while being extra careful, and boom. It all worked perfectly!! Thanks :)

Naysan Jones (NaysWindu) - 답글

So elaborately explained. Thank you!

hizburrahmanjibon - 답글

Ciao! Io faccio il tutto senza rimuovere la scheda madre dell'iPhone. Questo comporta dei problemi?

Grazie.

Michelangelo - 답글

Nessun problema!

Arthur Shi -

Step 28 tells me to complete remove the antenna cable, although I didn’t do this and was able to complete the rest of the procedure.

DARWINLAM - 답글

My iPhone did not charge anymore, so I changed the Lighting Connector and the battery. After the repair, I connected it to my Macbook. It turned on again, but it still does not load. Did someone have a similar problem and maybe a solution for me? Many Thanks! Best regards, Felix

Doc Brown - 답글

did you allow your computer to access the iphone?

Sam Tang -

Giuda molto dettagliata, ma credo ci siano molti più passaggi del necessario (ho trovato una guida in cui estraeva il flex di ricarica in circa 15 minuti, senza togliere né batteria né scheda madre)

jack91.7 - 답글

The yellow screws in Step 32 is sooo tight, I found it so hard to remove.

Sam Tang - 답글

Replaced the lighting connector. After reassembly, everything fine except the phone says “No SIM”. Ideas?

Jim .B - 답글

If nothing was broken inside, try removing, cleaning it with a soft cloth and place it again. Hope it works

Angel -

This is one of those guides where just saying reverse the steps at the end really isn’t adequate. This was especially true in regards to how to reposition the microphones, when to pull adhesive backing, and how to place the screen adhesive. If a reference to a another guide is needed (such as with replacing the screen adhesive and closing the case) it should be linked directly. Please don't make us go hunting for the correct guide.

Michael Clark - 답글

Overall…It was very straight forward and I was able to remove and install the new charge/headphone jack in about 30min. However, there are three things that were different and/or not mentioned: 1) Step 29 - the screw that has the orange circle around it may be under a thin piece of adhesive…just lift up the corner and you’ll see it; 2) Step 38 - directly to the right of the headphone jack is a small black piece of plastic that may come out when you remove the entire assembly - this piece needs to be separated from the ribbon and placed back into the case next to the headphone jack area. You’ll see that the in the new ribbon, there’s a tab next to the grey jack that folds at a right angle and presses against this black plastic piece; and 3) Step 27 - when you install the new ribbon, plugging the antenna cable back into the board is not easy…take your time to line it up correctly and try to push straight down and not at an angle. Good luck!

Reet Das - 답글

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