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소개

이 안내서를 따라서 하단 마이크, 안테나 컨버터 케이블 및 Lightning 커넥터를 포함하는 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리를 교체하세요.

  1. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, SIM 카드 분리: step 1, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, SIM 카드 분리: step 1, image 2 of 2
    • SIM 카드 추출 도구, 비트, 또는 펴진 종이클립을 SIM 카드 트레이 작은 구멍에 넣으세요.

    • 눌러서 트레이를 튀어나오게 하세요.

    • 누를 때 상당한 힘이 들어갈 수 있습니다. 그러나 휴대폰 내부의 추출 장치가 손상되지 않도록 추출 도구가 올바로 정렬하고 있는지 사전에 확인하세요.

    Prolly goes without saying, but should you power off phone before this step?

    jklue - 답글

    If you are merely swapping the SIM card, you don’t need to power off your iPhone. If you plan to do any repairs that involve opening the phone, you should definitely power off your iPhone.

    Arthur Shi -

  2. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 2, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 2, image 2 of 2
    • iPhone에서 SIM 카드 트레이를 분리하세요.

    • SIM 카드는 트레이에서 쉽게 빠집니다.

    • SIM 카드를 다시 넣을 때 트레이에 맞는 올바른 방향인지 확인하세요.

    • SIM 카드 트레이 주위의 얇은 고무 개스킷은 방수 방진을 제공합니다. 이 개스킷을 손상했거나 누락한 경우 iPhone 내부 부품을 보호하기 위해 개스킷 또는 SIM 카드 트레이 전체를 교체하세요.

  3. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, Pentalobe/펜타로브/별 나사 분리: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • 시작하기 전에 iPhone 배터리를 25% 이하로 방전하세요. 충전된 리튬-이온 배터리에 실수로 구멍이 생기면 화재를 일으키거나 폭발할 수 있습니다.

    • 분해를 시작하기 전에 iPhone 전원을 꺼주세요.

    • iPhone 하단 가장자리에 위치한 3.5mm pentalobe/펜타로브 나사 두 개를 빼주세요.

    • iPhone 디스플레이를 열게되면 방수 씰이 손상됩니다. 이 단계를 수행하기 전에 교체용 씰을 준비하거나 봉인 없이 iPhone을 재조립할 경우 액체에 노출되지 않도록 주의하세요.

    just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

    An. Jahnke - 답글

    I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

    Johnny Emrica - 답글

    That’s a great idea thank you

    Mohamed Dekkiche -

  4. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 디스플레이 가열: step 4, image 1 of 1
    • iPhone 하단 가장자리를 가열하면 디스플레이를 고정하고 있는 접착제가 부드러워져서 보다 쉽게 ​​열 수 있습니다.

    • 헤어 드라이어 또는 iOpener를 준비하여 iPhone 하단 가장자리를 약 90초 동안 가열하여 밑에 있는 접착제를 부드럽게 합니다.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - 답글

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - 답글

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - 답글

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - 답글

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P - 답글

  5. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 디스플레이 분리: step 5, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 디스플레이 분리: step 5, image 2 of 2
    • 흡입 컵을 전면 패널 하단, 홈 버튼 바로 위에 눌러주세요.

    • 흡입 컵이 홈 버튼과 겹치지 않도록 하세요. 겹치는 경우 흡입 컵과 전면 유리 사이에 씰이 형성되지 않습니다.

    • 디스플레이가 심하게 깨진 경우 투명 포장 테이프를 붙이면 흡입 컵을 부착할 수 있습니다. 대안으로, 흡입 컵 대신에 매우 강한 테이프를 사용할 수 있습니다. 다른 모든 방법이 실패하면 초강력 접착제를 사용하여 흡입 컵을 깨진 스크린에 붙일 수 있습니다.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - 답글

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - 답글

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson - 답글

  6. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 6, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 6, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 6, image 3 of 3
    • 흡입 컵을 확실하고 일정한 압력으로 위로 당겨 전면 패널과 후면 케이스 사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요.

    • 틈 사이로 opening pick/여는 픽을 삽입하세요.

    • 디스플레이를 제자리에 고정하는 방수 접착제는 매우 강력합니다; 이 초기 틈을 만들려면 상당한 힘이 들어갑니다. 틈을 여는데 어려움을 겪고 있다면 더 많은 열을 가하고 여는 도구를 넣을 수 있을 만큼 틈이 생길 때까지 스크린을 위아래로 부드럽게 들었다 놨다하여 접착제를 약하게 만들어주세요.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - 답글

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - 답글

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - 답글

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - 답글

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - 답글

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard - 답글

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat - 답글

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers - 답글

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk - 답글

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz - 답글

  7. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 7, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 7, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • 여는 픽을 휴대폰 왼편 하단 가장자리에서 가장자리를 따라 위로 밀어 음량 조절 버튼과 무음 스위치쪽으로 이동하여 디스플레이를 제자리에 고정하는 접착제를 갈라주세요.

    • 디스플레이 왼편 상단 가까이에서 멈추세요.

    • 디스플레이의 상단 가장자리를 후면 케이스에서 들어 올리지 마세요, 디스플레이를 고정하고 있는 플라스틱 클립이 파손될 수 있습니다.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber - 답글

  8. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 8, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 8, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • iPhone의 하단 오른편 가장자리에 픽을 다시 넣고 가장자리를 따라 오른편 위로 밀어서 접착제를 분리하세요.

    • 픽을 iPhone에 너무 깊이 넣지 마세요. iPhone 측면을 따라 위치한 디스플레이 케이블이 손상 될 수 있습니다. 픽은 몇 밀리미터 또는 디스플레이 베젤 너비 정도만 넣어주세요.

  9. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 9, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • 흡입 컵을 조심히 위로 당겨 디스플레이 아래쪽 가장자리를 들어 올리세요.

    • 디스플레이를 15º 이상 올리지 마세요. 디스플레이를 연결하는 리본 케이블에 압력이 가거나 찢어질 수 있습니다.

    • 흡입 컵의 작은 손잡이를 당겨 전면 패널에서 분리하세요.

  10. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 10, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 10, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 10, image 3 of 3
    • 디스플레이 아래, 휴대폰 상단 가장자리를 따라 여는 픽을 밀어서 마지막 남은 접착제를 떼세요.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers - 답글

  11. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 11, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 11, image 2 of 2
    • 디스플레이 어셈블리를 약간 아래로 밀어서 (휴대폰 상단 가장자리에서 멀리) 후면 케이스에 고정하는 클립을 풀어주세요.

  12. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 12, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 12, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 12, image 3 of 3
    • 책의 뒷 표지를 열듯이 디스플레이 왼편을 위로 펼쳐서 iPhone을 열어주세요.

    • 아직 디스플레이를 완전히 분리하지 마세요. 여전히 약한 리본 케이블 여럿이 iPhone 로직 보드에 연결되어 있습니다.

    • 휴대폰에 작업하는 동안 디스플레이를 다른 물건에 기대어 세워 놓으세요.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - 답글

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - 답글

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - 답글

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - 답글

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    • 하단 디스플레이 케이블 브래킷을 로직 보드에 고정하는 다음 길이의 Phillips/십자 나사 네 개를 분리하세요:

    • 1.3mm 나사 두 개

    • 2.8mm 나사 두 개

    • 이 안내서를 사용하는 동안 빼놓은 각각의 나사를 기억하여 재조립할 때 원래 자리로 정확히 돌려놓으세요. 잘못된 위치에 나사를 설치하면 영구적 손상을 입힐 수 있습니다.

    • 브래킷을 제거하세요.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair - 답글

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 - 답글

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz - 답글

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham - 답글

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

    Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

    John Toth - 답글

    Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

    O D - 답글

    took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

    Karen Flowers - 답글

  13. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 14, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 로직 보드의 커넥터 소켓에서 들어올리세요.

    • 수리 중에 실수로 소켓에 닿아 휴대폰에 전원이 공급되지 않도록 배터리 커넥터 케이블을 위로 약간 구부려 주세요.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth - 답글

    I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

    Jeff -

    So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

    John M - 답글

    I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

    Kenneth Moore -

    This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

    Karen Flowers - 답글

  14. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 디스플레이 및 디지타이저 분리: step 15, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 디스플레이 및 디지타이저 분리: step 15, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 하단 디스플레이 커넥터를 소켓에서 들어올리세요.

    • 이와 같은 프레스 커넥터를 다시 붙이려면 한쪽을 제대로 들어맞을 때까지 아래로 누른 다음 다른 쪽도 반복하세요. 가운데 부분은 누르지 마세요. 커넥터가 조금이라도 잘못 정렬되어 있을 경우 커넥터가 구부러져 영구적인 손상을 입을 수 있습니다.

  15. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 16, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 16, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 두 번째 하단 디스플레이 케이블을 분리하세요.

  16. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 17, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • 전면 패널 센서 어셈블리 커넥터 위로 브래킷을 고정하는 1.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 세 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 브래킷을 분리하세요.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt - 답글

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley - 답글

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley - 답글

    My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

    Ray Rushing - 답글

    Mine too? Any help?

    George Waller -

    These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

    Niklas Brammer - 답글

  17. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 18, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 전면 패널 센서 어셈블리 커넥터를 분리하세요.

  18. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 디스플레이 어셈블리 분리: step 19, image 1 of 1

    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John - 답글

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

    I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

    Gary Berman -

    I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

    Matt D - 답글

    Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

    - use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

    - use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

    - Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

    Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

    I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

    Howard - 답글

    I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

    Hein Blöd -

    Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

    Lynn Thomas - 답글

  19. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, Wi-Fi Diversity/다이버시티 안테나 분리: step 20, image 1 of 1
    • Taptic Engine 옆 브래킷을 고정하는 나사 세 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 1.3mm Y000 나사 한 개

    • 2.7mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 2.9mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.

    Daryl Maunder - 답글

    I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.

    William Mitchell - 답글

    Hey William!

    We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.

    Arthur Shi -

    since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.

    Bob McCall - 답글

    My tape tore away and now my home button does not work, which from what I see is to do with the tapic engine. It seems to be more dangerous to do that than to use heat and pry the battery out (which I had to do anyway). You should at least put in an warning/option for users.

    Gary Berman - 답글

    Hi Gary,

    The Home button connector is not related to the Taptic Engine and should not be affected by anything close to the battery adhesive. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the screen connectors, and make sure that there is no debris on the contacts. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this, or you will risk damaging the screen.

    Arthur Shi -

    Glad I stopped and watched the video at this point and skipped this step. Totally unnecessary, I used the iopener and heated the back of the phone before removing the battery with a pick and “ifixit card” came out easily. Not my first battery replacement.

    Rick Collins - 답글

    Kompletter bullshit!! Im Video wird es anders gezeigt und die Schritte 18-27 werden komplett ausgelassen. Ist auch viel besser so, da so das Risiko, dass man die Taptic Engine schrottet, wie es mir jetzt beim ausbauen passiert ist, einfach nicht vorhanden ist. Ich kann auch nicht nachvollziehen, warum man in einer schriftlichen Anleitung zum Akku Wechsel komplett andere Schritte schildert als im Video. An der Stelle hat iFixit deutlich versagt. Ein Haufen Splasher…

    Maximilian Ament - 답글

    Hallo Maximilian, du hast Recht, im Video wird die kürzere Methode gezeigt. Der Ausbau des Akkus ist für viele Menschen jedoch sehr schwer, wenn die Taptic Engine noch verbaut ist. Deshalb empfiehlt die Anleitung den Ausbau der Taptic Engine.

    Fabian Neidhardt -

    I can’t get the 2.7mm screw to tighten down the bracket.. not sure what i did wrong? the 2.9 will tighten in either place but the 2.7mm wont tighten anywhere.

    cb brooks - 답글

  20. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 21, image 1 of 1
    • 브래킷을 분리하세요.

  21. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 22, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 22, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 22, image 3 of 3
    • 여는 픽을 안테나 플렉스 케이블과 스피커 상단 사이로 조심히 밀어주세요.

    • 이 플렉스 케이블 부분은 제자리에 살짝 붙어있습니다. 필요한 경우 iOpener 또는 헤어 드라이어를 사용하여 약간의 열을 가해 접착제를 부드럽게 하세요. 이는 플렉스 케이블을 안전하게 분리하며 다시-붙이기를 더 수월하게 합니다.

  22. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 23, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 23, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 안테나 플렉스 케이블을을 로직 보드에서 들어올려 분리하세요.

  23. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 24, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 24, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 24, image 3 of 3
    • 여는 픽을 안테나 플렉스 케이블 아래로 밀어 눌러 소켓을 고정하세요.

    • 여는 픽으로 소켓을 누르며, Spudger/스퍼저의 끝부분으로 안테나 플렉스 케이블을 소켓에서 들어올려 분리하세요.

    • 이 케이블을 다시 연결하는 것은 까다로울 수 있습니다. 핀셋을 사용하여 플렉스 케이블을 잡고 커넥터가 소켓과 맞춰지도록하여 더 수월하게 하세요. 쉽게 만듭니다. 그 다음, spudger/스퍼저의 납작한 부분을 사용하여 커넥터가 딸깍 소리를 내며 제자리에 들어갈 때까지 커넥터를 살짝 누르세요.

    Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.

    Daryl Maunder - 답글

    Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.

    jgrsf - 답글

    I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks

    Laura Bernal -

    Yeah, I broke the connector off of my taptic engine trying to get it to reconnect to the lighting connector plate….freaking nightmare with that and the co-axe wifi connector……..I now have a working phone without haptics

    dave -

    I was glad I had the Taptic Engine removed when I failed to remove the battery adhesives. It leaves more room to work around the battery.

    Alexandre Deloffre - 답글

    I agree. And when reassembling the wifi antenna, I connected the two plugs first, which worked fine, and only after that stuck the antenna back to its sticky place.

    dl7utx -

    I was following this for replacing the loud speaker. I found that during reconnecting the antenna flex, I slightly rocked the taptic connector and it came lose. I was frustrated because my pre-close up test had everything working, then I shut it down, made sure everything was connected and put it all together (including a bang-on job on the display adhesive!!) and wham - no taptic responses.

    Just finishing reseating it, fought with the antenna flex, then ensured the taptic connector was seated properly underneath. All good now.

    Bill Shannon - 답글

    i cant get the small screw to tighten to hold the bracket in place. it just spins. the 2.7mm screw that is supposed to go into the lower left bottom. the 2.9mm screw that goes in lower right bottom will also snug down on lower left. I somehow messed up the hole I guess. can i use an extra 2.9mm instead of 2.7 mm ? if i can find one ? thank you

    cb brooks - 답글

  24. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 25, image 1 of 1
    • Wi-Fi Diversity/다이버시티 안테나를 분리하세요.

  25. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, Taptic Engine/탭틱 엔진 분리: step 26, image 1 of 1
    • Taptic Engine을 고정하는 나사 두 개를 분리하세요:

    • 2.1mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 2.1mm 스탠드오프 나사 한 개

    • 스탠드오프 나사는 iPhone 스탠드오프 스크루드라이버 비트 및 드라이버 핸들을 사용하여 푸는 것이 가장 좋습니다.

    • 유사시에는 작은 일자 드라이버를 사용할 수 있습니다—하지만 미끄러져서 주변 부품을 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요.

    Tiene que ser una broma que en el kit no te venga el destornillador plano para abrir el tornillo separador. Me habeis dejado a mitad

    Charlie - 답글

    Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?

    It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.

    Daryl Maunder - 답글

    When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!

    Daniel Timothy Case - 답글

    Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).

    Owen Edwards - 답글

    I just used a sharp knife for the orange one

    jackjaggermanjanson - 답글

    I broke (twice) the ribbon cable on the tapic engine while trying to reinstall the taptic engine. I ended up taking the loudspeaker out which gave my finger a bit more room to press down and connect the cable to the phone. It was a royal PIA.

    johnoconna - 답글

    Such a nice kit, great instructions, and then not include the standoff bit…what a miss…

    Martijn Smits - 답글

  26. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 27, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 27, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저 끝으로 안테나 케이블 소켓을 들어올려 밑에있는 커넥터에서 분리하세요.

    Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.

    Nic Giannandrea - 답글

    Yep, I did find it too. Thanks

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Hola,

    Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?

    Gracias

    Eduardo Moral - 답글

    I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).

    John Weise - 답글

    I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.

    John Weise -

    I found that the Antenna cable socket is best to remain attached to the taptic engine cable has i find that it is very easy to brake.

    I have in the past also broking the Taptic engine cable when trying to fit it to its sockets. the Taptic engine cable is very easy to brake so would advise that great care is taking when both fitting and removing.

    Jake Hearle - 답글

    Yep, broke my cable…hoping i can order a replacement taptic engine,,,,phone works without it, but no vibrator or haptics

    dave -

  27. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 28, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 28, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저 끝으로 Taptic Engine/탭틱 엔진 플렉스 케이블을 들어올려 분리하세요.

    I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).

    Daryl Maunder - 답글

    My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.

    Chris Rainone - 답글

    Be really careful here in the reassembly. I managed to rip the cable here, and now best case I won’t have any haptic feedback. :(

    Nick Cox - 답글

    I’m sorry to hear that! If you’d like to get that fixed sometime, we do sell a replacement part!

    Arthur Shi -

    On re-assembly, the taptic engine might not work. Before panicking, ensure that the taptic engine connector didn’t get dislodged when fighting to get the antenna flex reconnected.

    Bill Shannon - 답글

    on my A1905 iphone 8 - This is not correct!

    There is an extra leg coming off the taptic engine’s flex cable with a micro-coax antenna connector going underneath the speaker!

    You can’t take the engine off yet!!

    Jason Minahan - 답글

    I have the same issue and confirm the coax connector under the speaker …. can you buy this Taptic Engine anywhere? The one with the extra leg ?

    James -

    A hint for reassembly: carefully crease the ribbon cable upwards along the edge of the connector so the stiff ribbon doesn’t touch the engine, pushing the upper connector too far away from the engine to line up with the lower connector. Once the cable isn’t interfering, you don’t have to worry as much about breaking it or having it get in the way. It’s still tricky to get the connectors lined up. I had luck by using one set of tweezers to hold and stabilize the short sides of the upper connector (silver rectangle). I used another set of tweezers (spudger would also work) in my other hand to finesse the connector alignment and push the connectors together. Look carefully at the first photo in this step: the connector is almost exactly centered below the taptic engine screw.

    jeffreyknicholson - 답글

    my phone is doing a squeeking sound everytime i press the home button and sometimes if i press long on the screen.

    something is off with the taptic engine i think.

    any idea how to fix it?

    Rita H - 답글

    Any suggestion on why the 2.7 mm screw no longer holds down the bracket. 2.9 mm screw works in either hole .but the 2.7 mm no longer secures the bracket, can I swap it out with another 2.9 mm screw?. And where do I find one. Will it work if it’s missing that screw? Space. I have an old iPhone SE maybe I can find 2.9 screw in that . Thanks

    cb brooks - 답글

    Re-assembling the Taptic Engine connector is difficult. After struggling unsuccessfully for 45 minutes I ended up bending up the metal tab on the right side of the phone with tweezers, then with the Taptic Engine tipped on end (not positioned in phone) I could get the cables connected. With the tab on the phone bent upward I was able to slide the mounting tab on the left side of the Taptic Engine under the tab on the left side of the phone case and then bend it back down. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damaging the cable on the Taptic Engine.

    Mark Dige - 답글

  28. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 29, image 1 of 1
    • Taptic Engine/탭틱 엔진을 분리하세요.

    Where there is the 2,1mm philips srew holding the taptic engine (left), there is a tiny piece of metal under the srewhead. Note its orientation, take it out and dont't lose it taking out the taptic engine, then reinstall it when reassembling. When reassembling, the said fixing hole of the taptic engine is not on top, but has to be pushed under a little metal piece, it won't even fit on top. Then reinstall the tiny metal piece and put the screw in.

    dl7utx - 답글

    I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing stubborn adhesive. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since some sections ripped? What purpose does this serve? Thank you for any information.

    Anne Marie Hammock - 답글

    Hi Anne,

    The graphite film helps dissipate heat during wireless charging and to transfer heat out of the battery. It doesn't need to be in one complete piece in order to work—if the film can lay flat, I'd leave it in place.

    Arthur Shi -

  29. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 기압 벤트 분리: step 30, image 1 of 1
    • 기압 벤트를 후면 케이스에 고정하는 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 2mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 1.8mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

  30. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 31, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 31, image 2 of 2
    • 배터리 방향으로 기압 벤트를 조심히 밀어 벤트를 iPhone 하단 가장자리에 고정하는 접착제를 분리하세요.

  31. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 32, image 1 of 1
    • 기압 벤트를 분리하세요.

  32. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 로직 보드 분리: step 33, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 로직 보드 분리: step 33, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 카메라 케이블 소켓에서 들어 올려 분리하세요.

  33. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 34, image 1 of 1
    • 후면 카메라 브래킷을 고정하는 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 3.0mm 스탠드오프 나사 한 개

    • 3.1mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 스탠드오프 나사는 iPhone 스탠드오프 스크루드라이버 비트와 드라이버 핸들을 사용하여 분리하는 것이 가장 좋습니다.

    • 유사시에 작은 일자 드라이버를 사용할 수 있습니다—하지만 드라이버가 미끄러져서 주변 부품을 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요.

    The screw and standoff are the other way round in this step. The photo shows the small screw removed and the standoff securing the logicboard is circled incorrectly. Also you may find that the standoff screw is not magnetic, making it a little tricky to replace!

    Michael Millington - 답글

    Hi Michael,

    You are correct; thanks for catching that! The original image was correct, and for some reason the image was updated, and no longer correct. I have reverted it back to the original image.

    Arthur Shi -

    wrong Screws in Picture

    mmiller - 답글

    Be careful when reassembling. These screws came demagnetized for me in the process, and they’re really hard to put in if that happens.

    Nick Cox - 답글

    These screws are not magnetized! If you are trying to put them back, use some tweezers to align them, and while still using the tweezers, grab your standoff driver and push down, then you can screw it in with ease.

    Lua Tech - 답글

  34. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 35, image 1 of 1
    • 후면 카메라 브래킷을 분리하세요.

  35. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 36, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 36, image 2 of 2
    • 여기에 번역 삽입Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 플래시 케넥터를 소켓에서 위로 똑바로 들어올려 분리하세요.

    The small connector is not actually for the flash, the flash and mic module are just below that and connect to the same cable as the power button.

    Bonrad C - 답글

  36. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 37, image 1 of 1
    • 상단 케이블 브래킷을 고정하는 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 2.9mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 1.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    Logically - one wouldn’t need to take out all these things to take out something at the bottom of the phone - but in order to get good access to it, you must remove the logic board - which is long and all the way up at the top connected to the antenna. Follow the steps - it works.

    Chris Rainone - 답글

  37. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 38, image 1 of 1
    • 상단 케이블 브래킷을 분리하세요.

  38. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 39, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 39, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 상단 케이블 케넥터를 소켓에서 들어올려 분리하세요.

  39. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 왼편 상단 안테나 부품 분리: step 40, image 1 of 1
    • 왼편 상단 안테나 부품을 고정하는 1.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 세 개를 풀어주세요.

    1,2mm ! not 1,3mm ! thx

    Boni Zei - 답글

  40. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 41, image 1 of 1
    • 상단 가장자리 안테나 부품을 고정하는 1.4mm Phillips/십자 나사를 풀어주세요.

  41. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 42, image 1 of 1
    • 안테나 부품을 분리하세요.

  42. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 상단 왼편 접지 클립 분리: step 43, image 1 of 1
    • 로직 보드 왼편 상단 가장자리에 접지 클립을 고정하는 Phillips/십자 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 1.5mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 2.6mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

  43. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 44, image 1 of 1
    • 접지 클립을 분리하세요.

    what happen if don't put this part?

    albert saens - 답글

    Hi Albert,

    It’s hard to tell. Most phone functions will probably work, but you may start getting quirky problems.

    Arthur Shi -

    If it comes out it must go back in *no spare parts *

    Josh Brito - 답글

  44. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 로직 보드 풀기: step 45, image 1 of 1
    • 마더보드를 고정하는 나사 세 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 1.8mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 2.5mm 스탠드오프 나사 한 개

    • 2.2mm 스탠드오프 나사 한 개

    The One 1.8 mm Phillips screw was buried under some gasket material. It took some twezzer work to get that material off.

    I.T. Service Desk - 답글

    this is probably the most difficult part because the ‘top 2.5 mm on my version was under a piece of ribbon cable that had to be pulled back. Also notice - this picture is inverted. So the locations are reversed (obviously for clarity)

    Chris Rainone - 답글

    The 1.8mm was indeed buried.

    fotoband - 답글

    Buried 1.8mm Phillips easily located under the gasket material by zooming in on the photo to see position relative to connectors. Material is fibrous, so be patient.

    Ben Sandness - 답글

    I’ve been searching on internet about the black stickers on those parts in the phone and I found nothing about them, what are they? Electrical Tapes? Does it make any differences if we remove them? If yes is, there anything else we can use to replace them? We’re they are for any specific purposes? Thanks in advance if anyone can help me understand

    EverWill - 답글

    They are just there for a last-ditch effort to keep water out of the connectors.

    Aiden Reeve -

  45. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 46, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 46, image 2 of 2
    • 핀셋을 사용하여 조심히 로직 보드 접지 브래킷을 구부려 치우세요.

  46. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 47, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 47, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 SIM 카드 추출 플런저를 로직 보드 경로에서 치우세요.

  47. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 분리: step 48, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 분리: step 48, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼서의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 Lightning 커넥터 케이블을 로직 보드에서 들어올려 분리하세요.

    Replacement tip - be sure to prepare a U-shaped bend into your new flex cable at this connection prior to installing the adhesive-backed flex cable.

    I did not think of this and as a result when I get to reconnecting this part to the logic board, the flex cable had a lot of spring in it and wanted to rebound and lay flat (as it was shipped.) This step really should emphasize how important it is to get that bend formed into your new flex cable.

    fotoband - 답글

    On reassembly seems to be impossible to make this connection. Male and female don’t seem precisely lined up, even though I lined up the screw holes with this component and followed all the instructions carefully. And if not precisely lined up, then it’s impossible to get this long connector to stick. Seriously disappointing.

    Tom Schaeffer - 답글

  48. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 무선 충전 코일 분리: step 49, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 무선 충전 코일 분리: step 49, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼서의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 무선 충전 코일을 들어올려 분리하세요.

  49. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 로직 보드 분리: step 50, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 로직 보드 분리: step 50, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드의 배터리 커넥터 끝부분을 살짝 들어 올리세요.

    • 어떤 케이블도 잡아 당기면 안됩니다. 만약 저항이 느껴지면 아무런 케이블, 커넥터 및 부품도 보드에 걸리지 않은 것을 확인하세요.

  50. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 51, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 51, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 51, image 3 of 3
    • 케이블에 로직 보드가 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요.

    • 케이블에 로직 보드가 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요.

    During re-assembly, pay close attention to position the logic board under all the cables include the flash cable. The cables can get flattened out once the components are released and easily slip under instead of over where they need to be.

    Irina - 답글

  51. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, 스피커 분리: step 52, image 1 of 1
    • 스피커를 후면 케이스에 고정하는 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 1.5mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 2.1mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    I beleive at this step you should illustrate the importance of watching that antenna cable next to the speaker. It can easily ‘pop’ off of its co-ax connector when removing the speaker. Mine did and i was wondering where the extra part came from. And reconnecting it IS A NIGHTMARE!!! If you get it alligned correctly I found a metal bit with the same diameter of the co-ax socket needs to be used to press the connector into place, but it never ‘clicks’ or pops so you have to assume its connected when it dosent fall back off

    dave - 답글

    I had a similar issue as Dave. What worked for me was attaching it to the component before installing the whole charging port into the phone’s frame.

    Jenny Lawson - 답글

  52. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 53, image 1 of 1
    • 스피커를 분리하세요.

  53. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체, Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 분리: step 54, image 1 of 1
    • Lightning 커넥터 케이블을 고정하는 나사 세 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 1.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 2.2mm Phillips/십자 나사 두 개

  54. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 55, image 1 of 1
    • Lightning 포트를 휴대폰 하단 가장자리에 고정하는 1.4mm Phillips/십자 나사 두 개를 분리하세요.

  55. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 56, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 56, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 로직-보드-쪽 마이크를 고정하는 접착제로 부터 살짝 들어올려 분리하세요.

    • 마이크를 완전히 분리하지 마세요; 사진 처럼 접착제만 분리하세요.

  56. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 57, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 57, image 2 of 2
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 배터리-쪽 마이크를 살짝 들어올려 고정하는 접착제로 부터 분리하세요.

    • 마이크를 완전히 분리하지 마세요; 사진 처럼 접착제만 분리하세요.

  57. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 58, image 1 of 1
    • 휴대폰 하단에 가열한 iOpener를 그림과 같은 각도로 기울여 대세요. 이는 플렉스 케이블 접착제를 부드럽게 하는데 도움이 됩니다.

  58. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 59, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 59, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 59, image 3 of 3
    • Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 플렉스 케이블 상단 부분 밑으로 여는 픽을 밀어 후면 케이스에서 케이블을 분리하세요.

    • 피크를 iPhone 바깥 가장자리를 향해 살살 미세요 (배터리에서 멀리).

    • 무선 충전 코일의 일부는 Lightning 커넥터 플렉스 케이블의 바로 밑에 위치합니다. 과격하게 비집으면 코일을 손상할 수 있습니다.

    • 필요한 경우, 헤어 드라이어 또는 iOpener를 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 플렉스 케이블 후면에 반복적으로 가열하여 분리하기 쉽도록하세요.

  59. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 60, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 60, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 60, image 3 of 3
    • 분리하는 도중에 다른 부품을 손상하지 않도록 조심하며 플렉스 케이블 상단 부분을 계속해서 분리하세요.

    • 배터리 커넥터가 손상하지 않도록 살살 접어 치우세요.

    • 배터리 자체를 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요. 구멍난 배터리는 위험한 화학 물질을 누출하거나 화재가 발생할 수 있습니다.

    • 피크가 배터리 하단 가장자리를 지나면 피크를 그만 미세요.

  60. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 61, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 61, image 2 of 2
    • 휴대폰 모서리에서 시작하여 케이블 밑에서 피크를 Lightning 커넥터를 향해 미세요.

    • Lightning 커넥터에 도달하면 피크를 그만 미세요.

  61. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 62, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 62, image 2 of 2
    • Lightning 커넥터가 후면 커넥터 구멍에서 나오도록 조심히 당기세요

  62. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 63, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 63, image 2 of 2
    • 여는 피크를 Lightning 커넥터 밑에서 밀어 어셈블리를 후면 케이스에서 분리하세요.

    • Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리가 더 이상 후면 케이스에 붙어 있지 않을 때까지 피크를 계속 미세요.

  63. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 64, image 1 of 2 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 64, image 2 of 2
    • 케이스 왼편 가장자리와 Lightning 어셈블리가 붙어 있는 부분을 여는 피크로 미세요.

  64. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 65, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 65, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 65, image 3 of 3
    • Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리를 분리하세요.

    • Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리를 설치 또는 교체하기 전에:

    • 플라스틱 도구를 사용하여 후면 케이스에서 접착제 조각들을 샅샅이 찾으세요. 고농도 이소프로필 알코올을 사용하여 표면을 청소할 수 있습니다.

    • 접착 뒷면을 분리하기 전에 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리가 플렉스 케이블 구멍과 나사 기둥에 올바로 배치되었는지 확인하세요. 케이블이 어긋나면 로직 보드에 다시 연결할 수 없습니다.

  65. iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 66, image 1 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 66, image 2 of 3 iPhone 8 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체: step 66, image 3 of 3
    • Lightning 커넥터 하단의 고무 가스켓은 iPhone을 액체 및 먼지로부터 보호합니다. 새 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리를 설치하는 경우 개스킷을 조심히 분리고 새 부품으로 옮겨야 할 수 있습니다.

    • 각 마이크 하단의 작은 접착 패치는 iPhone을 액체 및 먼지 침입으로부터 보호합니다. 최상의 결과를 위해서, Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리를 설치하기 전에 접착 패치 두 개를 교체하세요.

    • 새 부품에 안테나 변환기 케이블이 포함되어 있는지 확인하세요. 그렇지 않은 경우, spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 이전 Lightning 어셈블리에서 케이블을 들어 올려 새 Lightning 어셈블리로 옮기세요.

    If you need to replace the adhesive patches shouldn’t they be recommended and sold/included?

    fotoband - 답글

    Hi fotoband,

    Our replacement part should have the adhesive pre-attached and ready for use.

    Arthur Shi -

    Die Anleitung ist klasse, aber “benutze die Spudgerspitze, um das Kabel von der alten Lightning Connector Einheit hochzubebeln und auf die neue zu übertragen” ist mit Abstand der schwierigste Teil der ganzen Angelegenheit. Die ganzen Teile und das Werkzeug alles super, aber dann nehmt 5€ mehr und macht an die Lightning Connector Einheit direkt den Konverter ran. das ist so winzig und fummelig, dass ich an dieser Stelle wahrscheinlich die neue Connector Einheit oder zumindest den Antennenkonverter zerstört habe. Schade

    Billy Bonez - 답글

    I don’t understand how to change the antenna converter cable. I can pry it off of the old part just fine but it doesn’t click back to the new part? Do you actually need to solder it together?

    coffings - 답글

    The cable has a coaxial connector and can be slightly tricky to click back. Make sure to align it properly and press it down firmly with your fingers.

    Arthur Shi -

    Transferring the antenna connector was by far the trickiest bit of the entire repair for me. Getting it aligned and click back into place took ages, all the time worried I’d damage the fragile coax connector.

    DarrenG - 답글

    Ahhh… the antenna convertor cable is a NIGHTMARE to re-connect. You need to get it alligned correctly with a pair of tweezers, then I found a metal bit/rod of the same diameter as the co-ax socket and needs to be used to press the connector into place with a stright downward motion, but it never ‘clicks’ or ‘pops’ into it’s proper seating, so you have to assume its connected when it dosent fall back off of the lightning connector plate. THEN, reconnecting the taptic engine right over top of its connector runs the chance of popping the antenna connector back off again. Its a frustrating battle that you need to be fresh for…not at 1AM

    dave - 답글

    Well, I thought this was going pretty well, but I’ve just destroyed my new part and the antenna cable trying to mate them together. Not sure this repair is “moderate” enough for me.

    Sylvain Poitras - 답글

    Is this piece (the aforementioned tricky converter cable) the cellular antenna? I’m trying to identify which component actually receives the cellular signals. If it is removed and/or left off, Will this completely disable the cellular connection?

    Alberta I Stein - 답글

    This piece looks to convert a coaxial antenna socket into a press connector. If this is removed, whatever antenna this is connected to won’t work.

    Arthur Shi -

    This part sucks. I got it on once with a nice click, but it flew off when gently touched by another piece. After that, it seemed to not go on again, no more reassuring click. I tried for hours to line it up. So I got it to where it seemed to connect close enough and hot glued it. Terrible, but it works.

    Skyler Barto - 답글

    My microphone isn’t working when I talk through earpiece or more it’s super muffled, but I sound clear as day when on speakerphone, is there something I can do to fix that? Did I put the lightning connector wrong?

    Eliezar Gonzalez - 답글

결론

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Arthur Shi

회원 가입일: 2018년 01월 03일

199,003 평판

안내서 434개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

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댓글 22개

I love how you mention the “antenna converter cable” twice but never show what the &&^& that part even looks like??

I only hate Humans. - 답글

Sorry about that! It’s actually shown in the 3rd image in the last step. I cropped the photo so that it’s zoomed in more to show it.

Arthur Shi -

I would HIGHLY recommend not attempting this fix. I have done a variety of repairs on iPhones (screens, batteries, etc.) and decided to try this to address a broken microphone. I could make regular phone calls but couldn’t use speakerphone or FaceTime. After replacing the lightening charger using the instructions and the iFixit parts, I still can’t use the speakerphone or FaceTime function. To make matters worse, my phone won’t charge through the lightening connector, won’t wirelessly charge, and people can’t hear me even when I make a regular phone call anymore. In other words, I started with one fairly minor problem and, due to this repair, have a whole bunch of new (much more significant) issues. Don’t make the same mistake I did.

Aaron Nelson - 답글

Don’t know about the charging issues, but the reason replacing the microphone didn’t help is because you replaced the wrong microphone.

iPhone 8 has 3 mics.

- One for regular phone calls - which is the one you replaced

- One for the front-facing camera - which is used for the speakerphone and FaceTime and is located near the earpiece

- One for the back-facing camera

Nick Shtangey -

Excelente guía..!!

Jorge Lonjedo - 답글

It the port paired to the phone? like Touch ID, or can you just replace it without and issue?

Robinson Shaffer - 답글

Hi Robinson,

The port is not paired to the phone.

Arthur Shi -

Phone doesn’t turn on. Is there any other tips??

carl mercado - 답글

Hi Carl,

You can try some common troubleshooting tips. Hopefully that will resolve the issue. If not, please browse and post on our Answers forum.

Arthur Shi -

Excellent guide. Took just over 1 hour to complete, phone charges and earphones work again. This is my daughters phone so she is very happy.

David Dunsire - 답글

Im having an issue where whenever i attach the lightning cord connector the screen wont turn on but when i detach it the screen will turn on, is there anyway to fix this?

Sara A - 답글

Repair completed using this guide and the iFixit kit. Took me quite a bit longer than 2 hours (I spent almost an hour making sure ALL the old glue was off before fitting a new seal!) but with the help of the magnetic project board the job went perfectly and I can now charge my phone again. Speaking of the project board, I would consider this an absolute essential to complete this job. The phone has to be pretty much taken apart and you end up with a multitude of differing length/type screws which are easy to mix up….and it’s not that easy to tell a 1.2mm screw from a 1.3mm screw!

Lacy Kyle - 답글

Well, that was a pain in the ass… But it works!:)

Trym Thorén - 답글

Does anyone know where I can get the small “antenna converter cable”? Sadly, mine broke and it’s seems to be near impossible to just get the converter cable…I know that the wifi works without it, but I’d rather replace the broken thing…

malteweber - 답글

Thank you for putting this together. The Youtube videos are so fast, you really need the pics and instructions. It was greatly appreciated!

Chris Rainone - 답글

My charger port still does not work, even after a replacement. ••Sad••

Great Guide though!! Even remembered the teeeeenie tiny antenna. LOL!

Jonathan - 답글

Well, this was by far the hardest repair I’ve ever done. (I’m pretty comfortable with these types of repairs and have done 4-5 screen repairs and home button replacements.) It took about 5 hours. (I had a few mishaps where something was reassembled under something else and I had to take it back apart to get it to seat correctly.) I managed to sever the taptic feedback engine ribbon cable and I couldn’t get the antenna back in, but my phone still seems to make and receive calls with decent signal, use WiFi, and use cellular data, so I’m not exactly sure what that does.

So, TL;DR, the phone dropped in water and wouldn’t charge. Now it does charge, but the haptic feedback on the home button doesn’t work, and I’m guessing it won’t have as strong a signal due to the antenna loss. But it was probably worth it for a ~$20 part instead of replacing the phone for ~$200.

Nick Cox - 답글

I’ve done a number of iPhone batteries, screens, and even other lightning connectors. This repair is a big job, with almost all of the phone components being removed to replace the lightning connector board. This was also my first iFixit repair that was unsuccessful. At the end of about 5 hours of work and troubleshooting, I was left with no use from the lightning connector, no cellular signal, and a phone stuck in a reboot cycle. I am relatively confident in my work and reassembly and it was quite possibly a faulty part—but at the end of the day I was at a point where I can’t wait days and days for replacement parts to further troubleshoot.

Instructions on this were mostly clear, though there are gaps in the reassembly as there are no specific photos or written directions for the replacement screens and seals around the microphone/speakers/etc. You can see how the old parts were installed, so not a big issue.

Ben Sandness - 답글

I agree, this is a BIG job, especially when doing it three times. I missed “You may need to transfer remaining components…“ in Step 66 and in the Conclusion so back tracked to transfer the tiny wifi flex to charging port transition cable from the old part. New part didn’t allow the phone to charge! Took it back apart and reassembled then it wouldn’t even power on. Disassembled it one more time , put the old part back in, and it worked like it did before - lightening cable won’t stay plugged in.

Ordered a replacement for the replacement part. Also had to order the transition cable (from Repairs Universe, by the way). This cable is very small and fragile and a PITB to connect.

So I’ll try this one more time once I get the parts and forget how difficult this was.

Could not - would not! - have done this without Arthur Shi’s guide. Thank you for the time you spent making it!

TJ Cope - 답글

That “antenna converter cable“ is a nightmare to transfer over. The circular connector on it enlarges once taken out and now it is so loose that it is impossible to reattach it to the new lightning assembly! I Guess i will be leaving that one unattached. Does anyone know the exact function of that one? Frequency? Does it carry wifi or cellular signal? The iphone seem to work fine without it.

Jansen Yong - 답글

Excellent guide. Thank you for your time putting this together.

M.bishop - 답글

Gran tutorial , muchas gracias

pablo - 답글

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