Nintendo Switch 방열판 교체
이 안내서를 따라서 Nintendo Switch 게임 콘솔 방열판을 분리 및 교체하세요.
Switch는 JIS 나사를 사용하지만 십자 스크류드라이버도 사용할 수 있습니다. 나사가 벗겨지지 않게 주의하세요. iFixit의 십자 비트는 JIS-스타일 나사와 교차-호환되도록 설계되었습니다.
참고: 실드 플레이트를 분리할 때, 플레이트와 방열판 사이의 열 화합물을 교체해야 합니다. 일반 열 페이스트는 큰 간격을 잇도록 설계되지 않았기 때문에 가장 가까운 대체품은 K5 Pro 점성 열 페이스트입니다. 그러나 CPU에는 일반 교체용 열 페이스트가 필요합니다.
참고: 이 안내서, 그리고 자사가 판매하는 부품은 2017년에 처음 출시한 Nintendo Switch 모델과 더불어 2019년에 출시한 최신 모델과 호환됩니다 (각 모델 번호 HAC-001 및 HAC-001(-01)).
필요한 것
부품
도구
더보기...
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Joy Con 컨트롤러 후면의 작은 동그란 버튼을 누르고 있으세요.
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버튼을 누른 상태에서, 컨트롤러를 위를 향해서 미세요.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Y00 스크루드라이버를 사용하여 후면 패널을 고정하는 6.3mm-길이 나사 네 개를 풀어주세요.
I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?
I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.
Pifase -
My top 2 screws are stripped, one into triangle, the other circle, rather than triangle spokes.
This happened when I replaced the micro-sd card slot, which turned out to have replaced the broken one with another one that turns out to be broken. I need to fix the fact that when I reapplied the back cover, the vent was misaligned.
I had huge problems removing the bottom two screws. I continued with the next steps and lifted the plastic shell as much as possible while using the screwdriver and it became an ease.
y0 works best. Press HARD at beginning then ease off to finish.
J LWsMommy - 답글
I haven't tried neither solutions that I am gonna propose here but
1. Poor some Isopropyl Alcohol, one small drop will do, get a piece of cotton (not any clothing) and dip it in the Isopropyl Alcohol, apply and then try to get a grip with tweezers and turn it out
OR (I do not reccomend it since it can cause huge damage if done wrong)
2. Grab a small drill and drill through the screw. Keep in mind; the screw is very small.
If you do one of these and it goes wrong, I am not responsible for that.
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JIS 000 드라이버 혹은 iFixit PH 000 드라이버를 사용하여 후면 패널을 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:
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기기 상단 가장자리에 있는 2.5mm-길이 나사 한 개
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기기 하단 가장자리에 있는 2.5mm-길이 나사 두 개
Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?
Thanks
The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.
I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…
We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked
Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…
If the screw is turning but not coming out, the plastic tab that it screws into is probably damaged or broken. You’ll need to try to pry the screw out with tweezers as you unscrew it. It is not the end of the world if you can’t screw these back in during reassembly.
this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it
PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.
One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension
I just came here to also confirm and say thanks to Florian for the tip. This saved me a lot of time and frustration.
Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.
Jason Lane - 답글
These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.
Der Tausch von Akku (separate Anleitung) und Lüfter ging einfach vonstatten. Die Anleitung ist echt gut und leicht verständlich. Man sollte aber gewohnt sein, mit extrem kleinen Anschlüssen, Schrauben und Platinen zu arbeiten, da alles da drin recht klein ausgelegt ist und keine Toleranz für grobschlächtiges Arbeiten erlaubt! Meine Switch ist nun wieder wie neu :) - Danke iFixit!
The swapping of battery (separate instruction) and fan was fairly manageable. The instructions are easy to understand. One should be used to handle with extremely finnicky connectors, screws and circuits as the components are really small and do not allow any tolerance for rough handling at all! My Switch is good as new again :) - Thank you iFixit!
My original switch bought on launch day does not have any of these screws. I'm guessing they fell out since the plastic tabs they attach to are broken. FYI, in case anyone else does not have these screws...
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JIS 000 드라이버 혹은 iFixit PH 000 드라이버를 사용하여 기기 측면에 있는 3.8mm 중앙 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요 (양쪽에 한 개 씩).
I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?
Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!
Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.
What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000
My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!
I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.
after getting all the other screws off I just hinged the back part away and it snapped off neatly where the rusted screw is. not the best solution but it worked.
Steve T -
One of my screws was SUPER attached too, but after following a bit noticed the one other in the left that got out nicely, had the plastic tab broken already! So I went ahead and broke the other tab too. So the two side screws are now holding nothing. But I think it will work thanks to the other 4 or 5 screws. Too bad!
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손가락을 사용하여 기기 후면의 킥스탠드를 펼치세요.
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게임 카드 카트리지 덮개를 열어주세요.
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후면 패널을 기기 하단에서 들어 올려서 분리하세요.
How to remove micro SD port?
Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.
This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:
Step 9) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement
Step 10) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement
When I lifted up the back cover, it kind of stuck near the headphone port (even with cartridge slot open). But it wasn't a screw or anything and I kind of carefully pulled and wiggled and the cover came off ok
+1, there is definitely an extra clip there on my day 1 switch
I wasn't so careful here and found out during reassembly that I accidentally broke off the clip with the screw hole on the top of the back cover (the clip fell off the device when I turned it over), so I can't put the top screw back in, but oh well at least the back cover is still affixed to the device otherwise
If you're having trouble getting the back cover to fit during reassembly, check to make sure you don't have an SD card inserted in the slot. It will get in the way.
If you're like me, you might have inserted the SD card to verify your SD reader was working again after doing step 9 reassembly. If so, remove it before proceeding.
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JIS 000 드라이버 혹은 iFixit PH 000 드라이버를 사용하여 microSD 카드 리더를 기기에 고정하는 3.1mm 나사를 풀어주세요.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Tweezers$4.99
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손가락이나 핀셋을 사용하여 microSD 카드 리더를 기기에서 똑바로 들어 올려 연결 해제하고 분리하세요.
Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.
if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.
Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!
Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.
I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks
Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!
The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.
The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.
I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!
My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!
Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.
I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!
Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience
I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!
Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit
Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow
Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!
This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.
Kris Morey - 답글
For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…
I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.
When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw
Jason Lane - 답글
Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)
Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.
It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.
Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.
I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.
Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.
Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?
It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.
Managed to push the connector back in with foam on, used back of plastic tool to push secure and once completed was able to use the SD port again. Brilliant little guide.
so how would you theroedictly put the old slot back on.
and how does if even work
Horrible guide, incomplete. Needs to show how to reattach the new reader but doesn't show anything. This makes it incredibly easy to bend pins that become incredibly difficult to fix. Ended up bending pins on the connector beyond repair as I didn't know what to look for or how to reattach it. Wouldn't recommend
Tried to do this, everything went smoothly I thought, but when I turn on system w SD card in the new slot, immediately freezes up the system completely until I hard shut down. Did I do something wrong?
Nate Akers - 답글
"Draw the rest of the !@#$ing owl"
Droideka30 - 답글
I have an issue that when I insert the SD card with the case off (to test the connection is correct), the switch reads it no problem. When I put the case back on, it no longer reads it. Anyone else experienced this?
This bullshit replacement part broke after two weeks of use, and now the connector on the board is damaged. My Switch is probably &&^&@@.
Thanks, iFixit! -
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JIS 000 드라이버 혹은 iFixit PH 000 드라이버를 사용하여 실드 플레이트를 기기에 고정하는 3mm 나사 여섯 개를 풀어주세요.
Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.
Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…
nin10doh -
My switch had loctite (or similar) on the bottom right screw (farthest right), ended up striping it and having to use a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw to get it out. I've heard that heat (solder gun) can be used to loosen loctite, hindsight. Only screw I found with loctite.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Tweezers$4.99
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손가락이나 핀셋을 사용하여 기기 상단 가장자리 팬 배기 포트 근처에 있는 폼 조각을 벗겨내세요.
My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?
It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.
My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.
Also did not see this in my launch switch.
Me three, no foam.
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기기의 가장자리를 따라서 실드 플레이트 아랫면에 spudger/스퍼저를 끼우세요
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실드 플레이트를 들어올려 기기에서 분리하세요.
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신중을 기하면 이 써멀 컴파운드를 재사용할 수 있습니다. 컴파운드가 더럽혀지지 않도록 하고 재조립시 방열판과 실드 플레이트 사이에 완전하게 접하는지 확인하세요.
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써멀 컴파운드를 교체해야 한다면, 재조립시 써멀 페이스트 안내서를 참조하여 기존 써멀 컴파운드를 제거하고 K5 Pro 같은 적절한 컴파운드로 교체하세요.
How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?
Youji Hong - 답글
Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..
MacTek -
When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?
Diego Soto - 답글
I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound
No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.
MacTek -
Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.
Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.
I agree with Amanda, hopefully I don't lose any parts before I can get the paste. This seems like it should almost be included in this kit from what I've read about this repair. Mine certainly needs to be replaced. I feel like at the very least, this should be at the top of the guide and part order page in bold, red, all cap lettering.
Side note this is the only "issue" I've had of the 4 purchases I've made with ifixit. I recommend you guys every chance I get. I really enjoy doing these repairs with my son.
does ifixit not have an appropriate thermal paste for this step?
there is only arctic silver 5 in the kit and i would guess that that should not be used in this case.
if true, the kit is incompleteLucas Tigy - 답글
Since I couldn't find decently priced K5 I used a 0.5mm thick thermal pad and that seems to have done the trick quite well.
The Amazon link goes to a kit with 6 tubes of K5 Pro. Surely I don’t need 6 tubes… is this kit sufficient? https://a.co/d/5aU8kB7
When replacing the thermal paste, is it possible just to clean the old thermal off the back plate and top of the copper heatsink and just re-apply those areas only, without removing that copper heatsink?
Linn Mckay - 답글
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Spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 마더보드 소켓에서 똑바로 들어 올려 빼세요.
be careful not to pry it off the board entirely
This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?
it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop
You can use a spudger to hold down the black plastic side of this connector that is supposed to stay attached to the motherboard while using the pointy spudger as shown in order to reduce any chance of pulling the socket off the motherboard.
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방열판과 팬 위에 붙어 있는 폼 조각 두 개를 팬에서 조심히 떼어내세요.
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아무 곳에도 붙어있지 않은 폼 아랫면에 spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 끼우고,
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손가락으로 폼의 상단을 눌러서 제자리에 고정하세요.
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Spudger/스퍼저 팁을 폼 아랫면에서 폼의 반대편 끝까지 굴려서 폼을 분리하세요.
Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?
Trae Block - 답글
I had the same problem and I found a foam manufacturer: https://www.foam-material.com/sample-cus...
I'm pretty sure the type is "Granular Activated Carbon Foam" and the thickness is 0.5 mm but I have no idea what the porosity is.
Yeah ripped the foam. Neither the screwdriver nor spudger technique worked. Day one switch, so 6 years old at this point.
Ndragonawa - 답글
Does the foam need replacing if torn? What does it actually do.
I wanted to know as well, what does it do? Can I replace it with thermal pads?
Can I replace the foam with a 0.5mm thermal pad? Will it be a better solution?
The adhesive remover really helped here being a day one switch
how do you re-glue the foam when putting this back together?
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Spudger/스퍼저 또는 손가락을 사용하여 방열판을 들어 올려 마더보드에서 분리하세요.
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서멀 페이스트가 발려있던 모든 표면에 서멀 페이스트를 바르세요. 여기에는 Switch가 추가 방열판으로 사용하는 히트파이프와 알루미늄 쉴드 사이가 포함됩니다.
What's on the heatsink?
where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?
They may sell it in the ifixit store.
(1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?
(2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!
UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:
1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.
2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.
Good luck!
Travis -
you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put
just clean it afterwards
K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.
Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.
Cerus98 -
i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine
The steps doesnt specify but do you have to remove the heat shield from the cpu as well?
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새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하세요—설치하기 전에 나머지 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 뒷면을 제거해야 할 수 있습니다.
기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
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I couldn’t even get past the first step because my screws were in so tight I made them threadbare trying to get them out. I did use the iFixit toolkit so I was using the right head but taking the screws out is not as easy as demonstrated lol
same mines are stripped
Same happened to me :( I was able to file down the screwdriver I was given and it worked on three of the screws before they’d stripped too much. The fourth screw I couldn’t remove so I was able to slightly bend and turn the backing enough to access the fan. I also wasn’t able to peel the tape back without it completely disintegrating. Haha guess I don’t have the magic touch.
You just need a good thermal paste
Thank you for this guide, I managed to repair our family switch using the strip down guide here, Our console was working fine as a hand held but when docked it started to show intermittant blank screen making the games unplayable.
I thought it was a cooling issue so I got some new high spec heatsink paste and took the heatsink and fan off, cleaned out the fan and fins removed the dried old compound and replaced it, also new paste put on the metal housing on the back, cleaned out the vents on the shell and rebuilt it. and now its working perfectly both handheld and docked
I think when most people follow this guide it's not to replace the heatsink, but the thermal paste. Most people aren't in dire need of replacing the heatsink specifically, given it's mostly solid state.
So, it would have been nice for the guide to mention there's a motherboard mounted removable heat spreader between the heatsink and the SOC, and that there's thermal paste between the SOC and the spreader that also could have gone bad.
Die Anleitung ist super und leicht umsetzbar. Was mir fehlt ist eine Info oder Anleitung wie viel und wo die Wärmeleitpaste hin muss. Danke für die Anleitung und villeicht kommt auch der Teil mit der Wärmeleitpaste bei der Switch
Es gibt eine extra Anleitung für das Auftragen von Wärmeleitpaste, die du dir erstmal durchlesen kannst. Grundsätzlich gilt: Wo du beim Auseinanderbauen Paste findest, muss beim Zusammenbauen auch wieder Paste hin. Und weiter oben in Kommentaren steht die Empfehlung eines Users:
1. Am Ende habe ich die Menge nach Augenmaß ermittelt. Stellen Sie sich eine erbsengroße Menge vor und teilen Sie diese Menge dann in zwei Hälften. Das ist die Menge, die ich verwendet habe, und es hat gut funktioniert.
2. Die Paste (ich habe K5-Pro verwendet, wie empfohlen) ist ziemlich dick und klebrig und lässt sich nur schwer so verarbeiten, wie man es möchte, also habe ich die Methode des "mittleren Punktes" angewandt und die Paste mit einem Eisstiel ein wenig verteilt, bevor ich sie mit dem Kühlkörper den Rest des Weges nach unten gedrückt habe. Scheint den Trick getan zu haben.
Kann ich diese Anleitung auch für die OLED anwenden? Habe im INet sonst leider nichts brauchbares gefunden.
Ina Barz - 답글
backup all your sd card data i had to format mine after this tutorial and lost all my game data
JustForThisComment?ComeOn - 답글
do not watch the video! i broke the metal shielding on my switch because they didn't mention a screw!!!
Macro Man - 답글