소개
Follow this guide to replace a worn out and degraded battery in the Nintendo Switch Lite.
The Switch Lite uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.
For your safety, discharge your battery below 25% before disassembling your Switch. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate, which is bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate.
필요한 것
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:
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Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
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Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device
I accidentally stripped the back screw and now I can't open it. I removed all the other screws. What should I do?
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Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
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Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
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Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.
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Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
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Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
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Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.
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Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.
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Remove the back panel.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
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Three 3.1 mm screws
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One 4.5 mm screw
There are four screws instead of three mentioned
With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage with the next few steps, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).
i stripped a &&^&^$^ screw
Well I actually removed the screw right next to the 4.5 screw. I did not realize it till my son showed me why the plate wouldn't release. Ha ha, it's funny now but yeah not a big deal. I could have bent it badly assuming I took all screws out though. For anyone reading this before going in. 👍
Toastninja - 답글
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Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.
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Remove the shield plate.
What type of Thermal Paste would you guys recommend? I clicked on the picture but nothing.
Personnaly i use some Mx-6 from Artic, really good quality/price, never have to complain.
Nothing -
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
The clip broke off when trying to remove this cable. Audio only works through headphones and the display now won’t turn on after the clip broke. Does anyone know where I could get a clip or how I could fix it without it?
Mi è successa la stessa cosa è non so come ripararla! Chissà se c’è un modo!
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on
The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?
We're you able to get it working without the white flap? My screen is not working after putting it back together and i noticed this white flap was falling off
Did you get it working without the white flap? Everything on the switch works fine except for audio going through headphones and the display not turning on.
do not use metal sharp pointed tweezers! you will rip your ribbon cable. Use the inside of a Bic type pen or something else dull and plastic to pull the cable away by putting the pen part where the first bend is.
Maybe tape the Tweezers or smear some hot glue on them to insulate them to save you time and money.
Maybe put all the Warnings at the start of the guide as well. We fix it geeks tend to get excited when fixing things 😁
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.
Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-
I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?
Jannalyzer - 답글
You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.
With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage at this point, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).
just broke my connector... ifixit PLEASE put a warning on how fragile the solder on this connector is.
Note for this step, you do not need to apply a lot of force. I used two tools here: small screwdriver to hold down the black base, and one side of fine-tipped tweezers to get under all 3 wires. Gently, push down on the tweezers to push the wires upwards, which should force the gray connector up and off the base. It did not take a lot of force. Take your time and it will be fine. Again, like others have said, do NOT pull or pry up the black base.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:iFixit Adhesive Remover$19.99
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol inside the battery recess along the top edge to weaken the adhesive.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap between the battery and the wall of the battery well.
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Carefully dig the tip of the opening pick underneath the battery and slide it along the edge to begin slicing the adhesive.
It is not mentioned in any of the steps, but in this picture you can see that the strip that has the Volume & Power buttons is removed. I ended up tearing mine while trying to pry the battery out, so I recommend using the opening tool to release the clamp on it and to remove the piece until reassembly.
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Leave the opening pick in place and apply a few more drops of adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well.
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Tilt the top edge of the device upward and wait 1-2 minutes for the adhesive remover to weaken the adhesive.
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Continue working the opening pick along the top edge of the battery, slicing more of the adhesive underneath.
Don't use isopropyl alcohol for this step! Too much will leak behind the battery well and damage the LCD screen, and 1-2 drops is NOT enough to loosen the adhesive here. Highly recommend getting specific adhesive remover, or using a hair dryer (cool to warm setting, no more than 60*F) to loosen the adhesive. Learn from my mistake!
Just want to second Ashley’s comment here. I spent a lot of time and elbow grease prying that pick in there with IPA to no avail. I’m glad I saw their comment because with the hair dryer on medium I got the thing off in 5 minutes. Fortunately, I didn’t have the same leaking into the screen experience with the many more than a couple drops of alcohol I put behind the battery.
I read the comments too late cus I just &&^&@@ up my screen with alcohol drops.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Once there's enough room, insert a plastic card underneath the battery and slowly pry the battery up.
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Remove the battery.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Microfiber Cleaning Cloths$3.99
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Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean up any remaining adhesive left behind in the battery well before installing the new battery.
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If your new battery does not come with pre-installed adhesive, follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive on the bottom of the battery.
Now where do I get the new battery that actually fits?
It may be better to go through the screen replacement guide and remove the midframe assembly before trying to remove the battery. The amount of alcohol or acetone you will need to remove the battery will risk the screen and the plastic underneath. It's definitely more work, but the difficulty is the same if you're doing the battery replacement, just takes longer and needs more thermal paste.
I just want to add that removing this adhesive was a massive pain and it took me both nearly half a bottle of iFixit adhesive remover plus the hair drier trick (medium heat, about 5 min) to finally get it out. But it did finally come out.
Ripping the battery out is awful. Don't even risk it. You have to apply so much force just to get it to move half a mm. I used iso and the hairdryer. Finally got it out but punctured the old one while giving the last few heaves with a screwdriver. Do not recommend! . It got hot and started smoking. When I got the new battery in and hooked everything back up, my screen was dead. Top buttons also dead. It turns on but only by holding the home button. Must have damaged the ribbon cable during my fight with the battery. Just take it to a shop.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.
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댓글 27개
Hello!
I am preparing to repair my daughters nintendo switch light. It has stopped charging out of no where. I have all the tools, I just can't find the battery anywhere. Where would you recommend buying it from?
If you are still looking Ifixit sells one themselves Nintendo Switch Lite Battery
Thanks for the guide. Battery replacement kits are now available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-HDH-001-... (they weren’t in November! I was also looking for this during that time)
Unfortunately, the battery was much harder to remove than I expected. I did use a lot of isopropyl alcohol, but the adhesive they use really was giving me a lot of trouble. I should’ve wisened up and googled other adhesive removal methods or tried a new approach other than prying with the spudgers.
Well, now the LCD now has what looks like pressure damage in the bottom left where I’d imagine a lot of the prying pressure went. It is much more noticeable when the screen goes all-white, and not too bad with darker colors.
I don’t blame iFixit for my mistake of course, and it is really disappointing that Nintendo used the amount of adhesive that they did. But I hope this comment can serve as a warning to others attempting this repair to be more gentle even if it’s refusing to come off.
Yikes! Sorry to hear this. How did you pry with the spudger exactly? If you kept it around the top edge of the battery well then I would assume it wouldn’t damage the screen, but if you inserted the end of the spudger deeper in the battery well and used that point as the fulcrum, then I could see that putting a lot of pressure on the back of the LCD.
@craiglloyd I did an embarrassing amount of spudger prying pretty much everywhere along the top/bottom of the battery, I actually broke a few spudger tips in the process so that might reveal something about my approach…
But, I’m starting to think it may not be LCD damage after all, but rather some isopropyl alcohol caught behind the screen– During my prying, the Switch case was getting pretty heavily warped, so maybe some of the alcohol (that I definitely used in excess) slipped in and got sandwiched under the screen? I started to notice this since the blotches seem like they’ve moved over time. Here’s an image of the screen now https://imgur.com/DjYmFnJ (and the dark gray blotch along the leftside isn’t a shadow, white spots in bottom left I thought were pressure damage)
It’s still very usable / not noticeable on black colors and thanks again for the guide! I can give the screen more time to see if it improves at all, or maybe try going back in and trying to see it is trapped alcohol that can be released
vmgm -
Have the marks faded over time? We have had the ame issue and believe it is the isopropyl alcohol :/ we didn't use loads but found there was a gap at the bottom of where the battery is held which clearly let some of the alcohol through. I'm really hoping it will evaporate over time but not sure :/
Sadly no, the marks are still there, and haven’t been motivated to try to fix yet. I’ve seen some videos online where people can coerce trapped isopropyl alcohol out without having to take a screen apart, but have been hesitant to try out some of the methods.
vmgm -
Thanks for the detailed procedure. I followed the guide closely except for the battery removal procedure. The battery module is wrapped in foil backed plastic. This is easy to slice around the battery edges with an exacto knife. Once it is free, I could lever the battery module out of the bay. Then, I was able to trim the foil outer wrap into strips with the knife and peel it away in pieces. Now I am ready to install my new battery as soon as it arrives.
Same problem here with the Isoproponol which has left my sons screen really discoloured.
Can I suggest you update this tear down as I have always relied on Ifixit for both tool kits and guides and it is a shame that this has left my sons switch damaged. I do expect a bit better of a company that sells parts and tools to do this stuff.
Thanks however for the brilliant Ifixit tool kits.
after changing the battery I have gotten the 2101-0001 error code, how do i fix this?
What kind of thermal paste are we to use?
réparation super facile, juste un peu de patience avec l'alcool isopropylique, mais sinon, rien de plus simple à remplacer :D
As other people have said, the alcohol got into my unit’s display. I was able to get rid of it by using a hair dryer until the screen got really hot. I then used a suction cup on the screen to push and pull. You can see the “bubbles” start to go away. You may need to place it in several areas of the display. It is a bit scary as you need a good amount of force, but eventually it worked itself out. The display now looks perfect. Note that I left the glass screen protector on while I did this.
Same problem here too. Isopropanol also discolored my screen. Along with some mild pulling I assume that's unfixable? (price for a new/refurbished one makes it not worth... for me anyway) The dark clouds have lessened over a few days, but the lighter area that might have has the additional pulling seems to be the same.
Discard and it felt and it wasn't my fault since the Nintendo switch. Just fell and it wasn't my fault.
The dark splotches on the screen, that result from all the isopropyl alcohol needed to dissolve the unreasonable amount of glue under the battery, are not worth the caution. Especially, considering that to replace the screen costs three times what the battery does. I disassembled the backlight and air dried the different layers; I had 5 out. But that did not help! They were already stained by the alcohol. I tried using Zeiss lens cleaner, but that did not help much. The splotches are not as dark now, but they are still there. I think there is still more alcohol trapped between other layers.
My recommendation is to fully discharge the battery, put on eye protection, and use a "jimmy" and plastic cards to remove the battery. By the looks of it, I think that is certainly what iFixit did in their teardown article.
One trick I found was to stack picks under the battery to help push the battery out and away from the housing. Once i ran out of picks, i was able to put the jimmy between two of the picks and pop the battery the rest of the way out.
That is actually a good idea - reducing friction and increasing pressure. When I did it, I only used a single card, which ended up deformed by the time the glue separated!
There should be a much bigger, URGENT warning in the guide about the dangers of using alcohol for this. My screen is trashed now because I'm a doofus and i didn't read the comments until after following the guide. My new battery is great though!! Unfortunately now I have to replace my screen. And if I'm replacing the screen, I might as well add a custom shell. A repair that should have been cheap and easy is now leading me into a spiral of addiction to modding and customization.
Agreed! I've added the following warning to the relevant step, but it still needs verification from moderators:
Using more than a few drops of isopropyl alcohol will lead to alcohol leaking into the screen and staining the display, leading to splotches and requiring a more difficult and expensive screen replacement.
wiggles -
hi, I have ordered all the parts from ifixit and followed the precedence. however once closed the switch does not turn on. only when plugged into the charger does the nintendo lettering and the image of the battery being charged appear. once removed from the charger it remains without any signs of life. do you have any advice?
My Nintendo Switch Lite Battery Is Dropping Faster So I’m Gonna Need A New Battery For My Nintendo Switch Lite
When I did this repair, I didn't have that bottle that they showed in the review, but from what other people are saying in the comments, maybe it's a good thing I didn't.
What I did was get a bowl and put some isopropyl alcohol in it, and then just dip the plastic card or pick in it (if you don't have the plastic cards, an old credit card or something would probably work), and then work that in between every side of the battery, while tilting the switch to try and get the drips off the card into the battery.
Then when I had to pry, I started with one plastic card, then I layered two on top of each other to get a bit more force, and just slowly but surely pried it out, it took quite a long time.
As far as I can tell, this method worked quite well, the new battery works, and there's no damage to the screen at all.
Another tip I have for this repair is, use a mat with numbered screws, and print out the screw diagrams this site has and write the screw number on them.
Hope that helps!
Removing the original battery is the hardest part. What worked for me easily and without isopropyl alcohol was using a half of a plastic card which is narrow and you have room to move it around and remove the glue. Also I started prying from the bottom of the battery as it has much more space than from the top.
Just keep pushing the card in all directions and in a few minute you will get more than 70% of the glue removed, then place a picker to keep the battery up, l in a way that the glue don't stick again. The last 30% should require a few seconds.
This process didn't require me much pressure/force, so go slow and easy.
Good luck
I replaced the battery and all went well, functions beautifully, but when I go to put the backplate back on the screen goes dark. It still functions- makes noise and plays games with button input, but as long as the plastic backplate is on the screen goes black. Anyone have any ideas why??
All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?
Almost A Mammal - 답글
A Y0 screwdriver seemed to work better for me.
Tommy Morrill - 답글
What type of screw driver do I use to un screw the screws and which way
Luca Capito - 답글
Y 0.6 was all I had but it seemed to fit perfectly
Trevor - 답글
Like really snug? I've gotten away with using Drivers either bigger or smaller but I hate doing it. But if 0.6 is the exact size I need, then I'll get that. I don't wanna strip my client's Switch Lite's screws.
Vincent Valodze -