MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2018 Screen Replacement
Use this guide to replace the entire display assembly on your MacBook Pro, in order to fix a cracked or faulty screen. This assembly also includes the integrated ribbon cables that are known to fail as part of the “FlexGate” defect on earlier models, so replacing it will also resolve the “stage lights” effect and other issues resulting from ribbon cable damage.
Although we’ve successfully tested this procedure on 2018 models using original Apple replacement displays, Apple’s T2 chip may prevent aftermarket displays from working correctly, and your MacBook Pro may not boot as a result.
For your safety, discharge your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% before you begin. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.
필요한 것
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Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
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Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:
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Four 4.7 mm screws
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Two 6.6 mm screws
I miss a printable template to leave the screws and removed parts on it for future identification when reassembly, linked maybe with the location in the Macbook, or with the number of the step.
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Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
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Pull up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.
Throw away this suction cup and get another. It just doesn't work! Luckily I had one that does work in my tool kit.
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Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
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Pull first at one corner, then the other.
this step must require a lot of force. I tried to pull it with the plastic hookie thing from the ifixit set by hooking it in one of the screw holes — the tip of the hookie thing broke.
PLEASE DON'T PULL!!!
Instead just gently push with plastic pick from the other side (where vents outputs are) towards the center... Cover will very easily open that way.
I hope iFixit will correct this step.
Came here to share exactly this.
Robert -
That's definitely how this step should be done. Thanks!
VovS -
If someone has a photo to share regarding this comment, it might be very useful. Thanks.
I used a screwdriver at 45 degrees angle and pushed the cover from the hinges, it worked really smooth. I had it close to the corners.
Yeah, definitely don't pull; if you do, wear protective gloves. Mine was stuck so strongly that I just cut my palm quite deep.
You would think ifixit would investigate why the last step required them to pull with great force to remove the bottom case lid as the solution.
It's counter-intuitive to use an excessive method to remove a part.
There's always an easier way. It's frustrating because you can't see inside.
Using the iFixit opening Tool in the hinge opening required close to no force to open.
Ah... after attempting to 'pull' this rear cover off, to no avail, I tried to coax the cover off with a nylon pry tool. MUCH better! iFixIt will do well to amend it's recommendation to 'pull' this cover in any way. All I wanted to do was a little house cleaning and exorcize the dust bunnies that took up residence in my MBP's fans. Today is much quieter. Thank you all for pointing out the obvious.
I was able to very simply slide the case forward from the back of the hinges toward the front (where the trackpad is) and using the spudger thing to gently pry the edge of the bottom case (near the vents / display) 'forward' instead of pulling corners etc. Was actually really easy and slid simply.
This tip was the most helpful for me, used the blue prying tool that comes in the kit and lifted the hinge end up just slightly aiming for the middle of the cover, then pulled the whole cover towards the front (not lifting, pulling towards the front) and is slide right out.
Correction; When prying, aim just slightly left or right from the middle of the cover about and inch or so because there is some insulating material right in the middle that can get peeled off if you go dead center
I agree this is the easiest way to do it.
Correction; When prying, aim just slightly left or right from the middle of the cover about and inch or so because there is some insulating material right in the middle that can get peeled off if you go dead center
Well, I tried a few things including pulling forward with a large piece of strong adhesive tape. What finally worked for me was using a rubber mallet to tap gently on the cover's side edges near its two front corners, to loosen it. Then I was able to pull it forward and off.
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Remove the lower case.
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Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
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When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
If I had it all to do over, again, I would blow out the dust with compressed air at this point. During the disassembly, I kept encountering little dust bunnies, and I was very worried that one would get caught in one of the connectors when I plugged everything back up (which wouldn’t get discovered until I put it all back together and tried out all of the components).
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Peel up and remove the insulating sticker covering the battery board, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
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If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.
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Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
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Slide the battery board data cable out of its socket on the battery board, and remove it completely.
Bonjour, super Tuto, petite question elle sert a quoi cette nappe , et quesqui se passe si elle est pas branché ?
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Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
Put a little bit of insulating tape over the terminal to be safe.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.
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Remove the display board flex cover.
T3 or T4? I almost damage the screw trying with the T3.
I’d say T4 as T3 was definitely too small
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.
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Remove the display board cable connector bracket.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the display board.
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Make sure the display board flex cable lies on top of the board, not trapped underneath.
When reassembling, I found that I had to press in on the outer edge of the antenna (top edge when looking at the picture) at the midpoint between the left 8 screws and the right 8 screws as I screwed the display board screws in. I found that the outside antenna edge would otherwise rub against the display halfway through opening it making a pop sound. Installing this way fixed the problem.
Running into the same issue with the pop sound. Could you explain a bit more as to what exactly needs to be pressed in, its a bit unclear :/
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Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly.
I’m having difficulty removing the screws. I’m not sure if the p2 screwdriver is defective but I am now stuck at this step.
We had 4 MBP's that I removed the displays from. On this step, I stripped a 'middle' screw on each side.
On the second one, I also noticed the middle screws didn't exactly want to easily come loose as I worked my way down the row.
I wound up putting all screws back in, loosened then tightened the screw on the opposite end, then removed the two in the middle (without issue), then an outside screw going back and forth, until I just had one on each end. Since I had already removed and replaced them, they came out without issue.
I used this method on the remaining 2 MBP's and had no further issues.
YMMV and it may not even be necessary. Just seemed removing the screws from end to end put enough pressure on the remaining ones that they were harder to remove. Whereas a patterned removal seemed to resolve that 'issue'.
so i had to first loosen all the screws just a little bit and then bit by bit remove one from each side, then remove the corresponding one from the other side and so on. This helped make sure that the entire thing comes off properly.
I think the reason people were running into issues is because the screws are keeping the two parts together under tension, and if you remove a few of them completely, the remaining screws get under a lot of stress. So yeah, just loosen all of them a little bit first
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 4.9 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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댓글 18개
where can I purchase an lcd screen for this computer?
Ron Glines - 답글
hai jeff. Is that possible I can revive my screen not to buy a new one, instead of replacing 3 pairs of flexible cable? thanks
To reiterate Ron’s request - you’ve shown me how to fix the screen (thank you!) without showing me where/how to purchase the replacement?
Banggodd or AliExpress but ta
Apple sry to get a genuine Apple screen as ‘compatibles’ may not pass in built Apple security- more expensive but can save a lot of heartache and later expense.
For everyone looking for screen replacements the short story is you cannot get them. Apple has prohibited their source from selling the assemblies to third parties. 3rd parties attempting to make their own have had them seized by customs. The only way to get one at this current time is from another device. However you may have issues using a display from another laptop even if it is the exact same model as apple will notice it is an unauthorized repair. This is a textbook example of apple’s illegal practices in regards to right to repair. You can read more about this here https://uspirg.org/feature/usp/right-rep...
Does anyone know if you can remove the MacBook screen and just use the keyboard mouse pad etc and connect to a monitor screen without attaching back a new screen? Thanks!
I changed the screen following this guide. The screen works but the camera of the new screen does not work and the backlight of the keyboard its not working (when turning on the computer the lights of the keyboard works but after login in with my password the backlight stops working). I tried nvram reset and pram reset and the problem is still there. If someone knows something about this please help me!
what is the part number for the screen?
Hi, I tried to repair/check my 2018 mac 15”screen and when I finished i cant get the mac to charge… have I broken the dam thing? battery flat?
Walter Hay - 답글
Hi,
Great guide thank you. Unfortunately during reassembly, 1 of the 3 antenna cable's conector broke. It's the long one. the machine itself works perfect, wifi and Bluetooth still work. Does anyone know what that longer antenna cable does?
Just wondering if it's really necessary for me to purchase and replace the antenna assembly all together.
Thank you
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - 답글
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - 답글
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - 답글
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - 답글
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - 답글
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - 답글
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - 답글
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - 답글
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - 답글
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - 답글
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - 답글
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - 답글
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - 답글
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - 답글
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - 답글
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - 답글
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - 답글
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - 답글
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - 답글
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - 답글
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - 답글
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - 답글
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - 답글
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - 답글
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - 답글
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -
Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!
Jack - 답글