난이도
보통
단계
35
소요 시간
30 분 - 2 시간
- Pentalobe Screws 1 단계
- Opening Procedure 10 단계
- Battery Disconnection 3 단계
- Display Assembly 6 단계
- Wi-Fi Diversity Antenna 6 단계
- Taptic Engine 3 단계
- Battery 6 단계
추천 가이드
해당 안내서는 iFixit 직원들이 뛰어난 안내서로 판명하였습니다.
소개
Use this guide to revive your iPhone 8 Plus with a new battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
This guide instructs you to fully detach the display assembly; this is intended to prevent accidental damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the battery without putting undue strain on the display cables, you can skip the steps for detaching the display. Additionally, while it’s possible to remove the adhesive strips securing the battery as soon as you open the phone, this guide recommends first removing the Taptic Engine. Doing so reduces the risk of breaking the lower adhesive strips accidentally, either by snagging them on the Taptic Engine, or by pulling the strips at too sharp of an angle.
For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
도구
동영상 개요
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws from the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
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Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.
Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.
Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.
I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.
Kyle Luksa - 답글
I used the suction cup without heating the phone - the adhesive came away quite easily without applying any heat. Maybe due to age of phone (nearly 4 years old). Worth trying.
My screen was very shattered, and was quite hard to get suction, as my tape was very low quality. However, after pulling it up a little bit, I was able to insert a regular razor blade into the very small gap and used that as a lever.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap.
After multiple tries and using a very hot iOpener, it will not open.
In sheer frustration, I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and managed to lift the bottom of the screen slightly, but in the process, cracked the glass from the bottom to the home button. The case is open now.
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Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Stop near the top left corner of the display.
Do not go over the top otherwise you can crack the screen. Sadly happened to me :(
The instruction should be:
“Stop near BUT BEFORE REACHING the top left corner of the display”
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Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.
I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.
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Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
Be very careful at this step. The glass at the top will break very easy when the display is lifted too much.
Gerdschi D - 답글
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.
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Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:
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Two 1.3 mm screws
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One 1.4 mm screw
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One 2.7 mm screw
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).
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Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket.
I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.
Here is my problem:
When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?
Hi,
Is your problem solved?
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Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.
I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.
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Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:
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One 1.0 mm screw
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One 1.2 mm screw
una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???
Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire
The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?
Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.
My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.
kit came with wrong bit. i received 2x P02 (penta tips) and no tri point y000.
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Remove the three screws securing the L-shaped bracket next to the Taptic Engine:
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
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One 2.6 mm Phillips screw
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One 3.5 mm Phillips screw
De Y000 schroef nam meteen ook de 2.4 mm standoff-schroef aan de achterzijde mee. Wat lastig om die uit elkaar te halen.
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Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhered portion of the antenna flex cable from the top surface of the speaker.
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the other end of the antenna flex cable from its socket, next to the Lightning Port.
I was unable to plug this back in when re-assembling. My home button doesn’t work anymore. The connector it was supposed to plug into seems to spin around.
Dan Putnam - 답글
I had a similar experience during this repair. My problem was that the nib on the ribbon that actually connects in to the socket came off the ribbon cable when I initially detached the cable. I didn’t realize this until after the repair, but I also had to replace the Wifi Diversity cable entirely. A tell-tale sign is that you don’t receive good cell reception.
Lucas -
I did not notice until reassembly, but the antenna socket pulled off the board. I have no micro-soldering tools. The friction of the connector was greater than the solder holding it in place.
The little connector in the first picture ripped the component off the circuit board when trying to pry it up so be careful. I’m guessing it’s like a previous poster said and the socket is stronger than the glue/material that holds the component to the PCB. This was on a new board during disassembly trying to locate a potential problem. Phone still workings with WiFi and cellular normally but the cellular signal is down about 1/3 on average wherever I am.
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Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.
This had a little adhesive on the metal band. Couldn’t just pluck it out as shown. What I did worked but what I should’ve done is run my blue puck up and down the length.
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Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine:
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Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws
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One 2.4 mm standoff screw
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Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the front surface of the battery.
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Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.
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Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at as low an angle as possible, without snagging it on any of the iPhone's other components.
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If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
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Repeat the above steps to remove the remaining three adhesive strips.
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If you removed all of the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
I can’t even find the upper ones. Tore into the battery cover trying.
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Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. Do not deform or damage the battery.
If you use isopropyl alcohol, use it very sparingly. The black (insulating?) paint on the wireless charging coil is readily alcohol-soluble.
To add to Scott Boyce's comment, if you use too much alcohol, it may seep behind the camera glass, causing condensation behind it, and blurring the camera. With some time, it seems to all dry out.
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Remove the battery from the iPhone.
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Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
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If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.
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Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
I managed to remove the battery after taking the display off saving the time and trouble of removing all of the other items. If you try and fail, then follow the instructions and remove all of the parts. I did this by pulling on the white strips at the taptic engine end. The outside one is most important. Pull the strip with your entire finger and thumb on the white strip (don’t pull the black part). Pull slowly and gently out and move left and right. Very slowly. I was able to remove it. The inner one tore out - all the better if you can get both out. You can do this on the other end as well. Both mine tore out. Use an old credit card, cut it the width of the battery. Push under the corner until you’re under the battery. Do NOT pry up on the battery but let the credit card bend flat to the bottom. You can minimize how much the battery bends. As you push under 1/4 the way to 1/2 way it’ll get easier. If you get the strips off the other end, all the better. Apply heat from underneath the entire process.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
다른 143명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
댓글 21개
You can leave the display connected and skip steps 15-20, as long as you’re careful to support the display so as not to damage the display cables while you work.
Don’t do it,you can EASILY RIP LCD RIBBON CABLE
Are there any statistics or even educated guesses about how many people are able to successfully complete this repair? Although it is rated as “moderate” in terms of difficulty, I would rate it as more than just moderate. I tried to replace the battery on a much older iPhone and wound up with a brick. Is an 8 plus easier than an iPhone 3 or 4? Where might one find such statistics?
Just finished my battery replacement.
My thoughts:
Nerve racking regarding the delicate hardware and the danger of lithium battery, but i’m glad I read through the guide and did each step slowly.
The guide is very well written, I think the video tutorial is too quick, and could be a bit more in depth and at a pace we can follow along with. I used a youtube tutorial to complement the written guide.
The suction cap didn’t work well so had to run the pick around a bit until I could get under, I think a heavier duty clamp would have been better.
I used a wheat heat bag however please be warned it does create condensation so have paper towel as a barrier between the heat pack and the phone, I’m unsure if the iFixit brand one behaves the same once heated..
My phone is 5 years old so with all the heating in the world the battery adhesive would not release as a peel, heaps of points for the last resort method of using dental floss, it worked flawlessly
Thanks iFixit :)
Second major repair, battery, after screen last year, I term IFixIt “The Best”.; not only parts with appropriate tool kits, but also detailed, accurate instructions. Parts are the EASY part of this type repair, the kit approach with well written, illustrated, instructions make this a do-it-yourself capable repair. Well, Done, IFixIt!
I’ve replaced batteries on several different iPhones/ipads and the ONLY problem I’ve ever had with a repair is the $#$?! adhesive strips. it doesn’t matter how much heat or patience I use, they always tear and snap back under the battery.
Just made it in 100 minutes. Most of the time was spent in removing battery itself, due to adhesive stripes. They torn from the center, I could see the tear growing from inside. Dental floss and iOpener have been very successful even though very long. I never thought that my dental floss would have such an use. Like many users, a flawless removal of those $@$*!& battery strips never happened to me, whatever the care I take, or the veeeeeeery slow speed I pull.
Before to attach the final brackets on screen connectors, I dared turn on and checked the antennas (I had a doubt with this antenna strip reconnection and the front camera connector) so I tested the screen, the touchID, the front camera and checked that all signals were present. Then shut off again and closed the device.
works fine, no flaws like battery not recognized or anything like this. I now have a faster iPhone probably because iOS does not slow down anymore due to weaker battery capacity. Thanks to iFixit team for offering this opportunity.
After replacing the battery, the audio from games is not audible over speaker. All other apps using the speaker seem to work: Phone, Clock (alarm), FaceTime, Skype, and YouTube are all audible. Could the issue with games be caused a poor seating of any of the connectors detached and re-attached in the battery replacement process?
Problem solved: The external sound switch (near the volume up/down buttons) had flipped to off when I removed or re-installed the drop protection case. Why it affected only games seems strange.
dv30fps -
Touch ID stopped working and battery won’t show that it’s charging after replacement. Removed and replaced all connectors multiple times, but nothing has changed. None of the ribbon cables were damaged
thankfully i bought a spare waterproof seal and the iopener , i screwed up the first seal. my iphone 8+ can live much longer now in the hands of my parents. now i got spare tools i can add to my arsenal of tools.
Do the bottom screws strip often when opening this phone? Wondering if I really need the replacements listed in this guide.
Aj Fangman - 답글
I replaced my battery successfully, but 3D touch to longer works, and reachability freaks out every time I'm asked for a touch ID prompt.
The only damage I did was ripping open the wireless charging coil sac, then gently placing it back. The coil itself was unaffected, but whoever replaced the battery last used the wrong adhesive; it stuck to the sac. (it was me; I was the last guy)
Does anyone know what might have gone wrong?
Replaced the seal pretty solidly, so I'm not sure if there's a cable I need to try plugging in again, or to check if I nicked something during repair.
Great guideline, but this was a challenge for my 66 year old eyes and shaky hands. The screws are VERY tiny! Never the less, following every step worked and my wife's iPhone 8 Plus is working just fine. I read the detail about replacing the water seal / gasket after putting the phone back together.
I'm not going to bother taking it apart again for this item as my wife stays away from the water hazards. - She is happy, so I am happy.
Thank you for a great product and great instructions.
I might rate this as more difficult too. No display on my iPhone 8 Plus. RIP.
Just successfully completed this, the hardest part being the removal of adhesive, it took an hour using fishing line instead of floss but it did the job.
The battery was extremely swollen and I felt like I was dismantling a bomb!
Excellent guide, just take time to read each step.
keez smith - 답글
I am someone that is pretty confident using technology, but on a scale of 1-10, 10 being an expert techie, I would put myself at a 3 at most. I just repaired my iphone with a new lightning connector, battery and front screen and it took me approximately 8 hours (but I haven't slept going on 48 hours so my brain is in lag mode). I would say although I found it challenging because I have no previous knowledge of ever opening an electronic device to fix, as long as you take things slow and follow the step-by-step directions it's definitely attainable. Also, as someone who loves specific instructions for diy, I am thoroughly impressed with this
what do I do about super stripped screws?
Ean Palacios - 답글
I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.
Adam O'Camb -
Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit
Adam Palmer - 답글
Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.
Kyle Luksa -