@Adam Bacon Heat guns are quite inexpensive. The model she uses in this video runs about $20 or less in most shops. A blow dryer may work, but it’s difficult to say for certain. The adhesive Samsung uses is pretty robust. If you find yourself fixing a lot of devices you should really consider investing in a heat gun.

I would actually recommend unplugging the battery cable before removing the Torx screws. The screws will give additional leverage and stability, and help keep the thin daughterboard-like portion of the logic board from flexing too much.

Yes. The ribbon cable may also be covered with a small sheet of thin black tape.

And here is why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYETzuYl...

A person would need to do some bulk stealing to justify all that kit.

I found it helpful, though you're right that it could use a lot of work.

You neglected to mention a screw that holds the motherboard to the display assembly. It can be found to the lower right of the headphone jack and should be removed immediately prior to step 17.

To others who may come along, the USB/daughterboard assembly is affixed to the display chassis with mild adhesive. The daughterboard is VERY flexible and should be removed with caution. I used the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the board up from the chassis by going underneath the cabling on the lefthand side.

Thanks!

The non-magnetic standoff receives the non-magnetic phillips screw that holds the display plate. Those fasteners are non-magnetic because they're located near components related to telephony. I've seen reports that using ferromagnetic fasteners at this location can cause interference with the cell radio, but I've yet to personally confirm that. I try to use only non-magnetic fasteners at these points just to be on the safe side.

I used both P#000 and J#00 precision bits to good effect. I tend to prefer the Japanese Standard bits in place of Philips, as the JIS bits seem not to cam out and strip screws as easily.